many ups systems use a sealed acid battery and they are a bit more robust
often they can be run completely dead and will recharge easily ( the crucial factor is keeping the battery cool during its charge cycle)
and some use a sealed gel battery , These may or may not offer a longer amp hour rating depending on the manufacturer but the downside of these are if the battery is drained completely its a risky venture to charge them and expect any decent lifespan If it even holds a charge.
our factory never even bothered recharging either if they were completely dead.
the time and effort to maintain the chargers and monitor the batteries was worth more than the battery cost!
depending on how crucial it is to maintain backup power over longer periods of time(I.E. Hospital) ups backup power needs only to run long enough to get the generator system started.
main inverter based systems are expensive and require considerable space for battery banks and these fall into special regulations categories ( outside ventilated storage space for the batteries, explosion proof lighting, and acid resistant cofferdam in case of a battery rupture, not to mention the permits and frequent inspections required
the positive aspect of this system is it is quiet.
in all actuality it is a lot less expensive to have a whole house generator installed.
Okay, I wanted to update you all now that this is resolved. I took your advice and got a unit with sine wave output a little bit after my last reply. The first unit I got sort of blew up on me. I plugged it in to power and went to shut down my computer and got a little side tracked. About an hour later I heard a “pop” and I the unit started producing a loud continuous tone and displaying an “F04” fault code on the display and I could smell smoke. I’m just glad nothing important was connected to it when that happened. I consulted the manual about “F04” and it said to contact Schneider for assistance. I got it RMA’ed and the second unit arrived yesterday and has been working fine. I connected my PC to it last night and since then, it has switched to battery for a few seconds a couple times and my PC has not lost power once, so I am going to declare that my initial problem is solved.
On the subject of battery life, while using my PC for general use, the estimated battery life on the unit ranges between about 35 and 45 minutes, so I’m happy with that. I don’t “need” my PC to stay on no matter what, I was just annoyed by it shutting off every time the power flickers for a split second, which happens relatively often in my area.
Thank you all so much for your helpful suggestions and feedback.
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I’m really glad that my suggestion, together with the others, helped you solve the issue! Can take quite some time to find out what’s going on and why when it comes to electric/electronic parts you can’t really test like you had a lab. From now on it’s going to be smooth sailing and you won’t have any issues with your PC turning off when power flickers. Also looks like you got a really advanced UPS, it has readout codes if it’s exhibiting issues which is pretty amazing.
So are both boxes on same unit or just 1?
Sounds like your PSU isn’t the greatest if it isn’t making it to the UPS transition to battery operation. Which would also mean your UPS really isn’t great either. As someone else mentioned, this is a great use for a real dual-conversion UPS, so there is no noise/interruption when power is lost. Changing PSUs is a band-aid covering up the fact that the power is not reliable enough
I suppose the said user likely allready figured out what the problem was.