Mushkin Joule 1000 watt PSU and the GTX 1080 Ti (Help please.)

Ok I just looked at the Mushkin Joule 1000 watt PSU I have only seen used on two occasions in my life. Once I tried to use it with the current pc I am going to put it in and for some reason there were huge issues with it. Thing is though on the second occasion it was used I let my brother use it until he was able to save up for a new PSU. During that time he had no issues with it. His system was a gaming system too. Now the thing is with this PSU it is a bit different than the normal PSUs I have bought numerous times. I am going to provide as much info. as possible. Here is what I have so far ...

Manual Rail Fusion - User selectable +12V rail split/combine for even +12V distribution or maximum power.

Also here are the specs for the PSU ...

76A over the 12V rail is what info. I got from the net (but I am seeing) 114A .... but what is this rail split/combine all about? Why would one split it?

On the back of the PSU there is a switch with two choices ... combine or split. To the right of this in it's own info. box there is something that says 115 to 240 VAC.

All I know is I don't want to kill my GTX 1080 Ti but I want to get the best performance from my pc.

Also so you know what is in the pc:

i5 2500K (OC'ed) with an aftermarket air cooler
2 x sata hard drives
2 x 200 mm fans (with LED) CM MegaFlow
1 x 120 or 140 mm fan at the back

.. and now adding the GTX 1080 Ti which if possible I'd like to do a modest OC but with the blower cooler plus the fact a GTX 1080 Ti already kicks butt I might not.

Btw the previous PSU I had in it (just taken out) was not 600 or 650 watts like I said in another post on the site but 750 watts ...

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371051 (In the Specifications tab or whatever it provides loads of info.)

It has 4 x 12V rails at 40A.

To me it sounds like the Antec PSU would be just fine. Thing is does it have 480A which would be more than the Mushkin PSU or am I wrong?

I am confused.

I thought I was going to need the Mushkin Joule 1000 watt PSU for this video card plus overclocks but not sure now.

Anyway I just want a better understanding of both PSUs here. Please help.

bump ...

cuz I want to get to using this card and thought there would be some really smart people on here that could help. : S

What exactly is the issue?

I already set out my questions in the first post. It is all said there. If I type thing again I will just be repeating myself. : S

A 750w PSU should easily be able to handle your system.
If the powersupply isn't capable it will just trigger over current protection and shut down under load.

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I agree. Again though I'd really prefer to use the 1000w PSU too because it has been sitting collecting dust and if it provides more juice based on the numbers then well I want to use it. However not understanding electrician related stuff I don't know which psu is better here. I also again am trying to understand the split vs combined deal with 12v rails. I have looked up things but all I can see is that I guess it help with protection against certain things that can go wrong with a psu. Also I just want to learn more about PSUs here so I don't have to ask this question again.

Multi rail vs single rail doesn't tend to really matter, single rail is just a bit more unsafe when it comes to shorts.

All multi rail really means is that the connectors are grouped with shunts that sense the current going to groups or even individual connectors, so if say 1 of the 8 pin connectors are drawing 50amps alone that obviously means something is wrong and the PSU shuts down.
A single rail PSU with 100a on the +12 rail can deliver those 50a to the short without knowing where the current goes, and thus can damage components.

Usually multi-rail and single rail PSUs all have a single +12 "rail" that, but multi-rail splits it into multiple ones so no single cable or portion gets overloaded.

Here is an example of a PSU that is both multi rail capable and single rail capable through software, notice how the connectors OCP are set to trigger at 40a.

Also you might want to go with the 1000w one since it has higher efficiency, though I'd probably go with the PSU with the best reputation and the least hours in use, PSUs can wear out and die over the years.

Despite some decent reviews the Mushkin PSU was not 80+ Bronze rated even. Still though it is the one with least hours in use. Anyway so far so good as at least it powered up without an issue and once I got my head on straight and realized I had to reset the BIOS the pc booted up with the new card. Right now btw I have it set to single rail. I also have the video card running off the connectors that were hard wired in. There are spots for modular cables though and I am trying to remember what the blue connection spots were for and what the black connections spots were for. I can't remember if there was any significance to them. I am looking for the manual for the PSU in my home and thus far no go on finding it. I did look for the manual online and didn't find it anywhere. So anyway fingers crossed this PSU behaves like it did for my brother the last time it has some use.

I am already seeing things that worry me about the Mushkin PSU and / or my video card. : S I am honestly betting on PSU being the issue but who knows. Btw I am running Windows 7 64 bit and right now for some reason it is not letting me install the latest video driver from Nvidia. Is it a Windows 8 to Windows 10 driver? Also I think I need some sort of PSU testing software. I have a multi-meter but never learned to use the bloody thing.

Since Windows 7 is still supported for about another year, I would think there are driver for that card. How are you trying to get the lastest drivers. Are you using Nividia Geforce Experience to get the latest drivers or are you getting them from Nividia web site?

I was using the Nvidia GeForce Experience. I will try the other way. Also I noticed that for some reason in my BIOS there was nothing to turn the HD 3200 graphics off and I believe that the pc was using them instead of the video card. I disabled the HD 3200 graphics somewhere in the control panel settings. I hope that resolves any issues I was having and thus far it has. Also should I uninstall the Nvidia graphics entirely and start from scratch? I had an Nvidia card in this pc before though so I don't know why I'd have to do that.

Update: The Nvidia GeForce Experience was the problem. Drivers now up to date. Thanks @Shadowbane.

I don't know about remove the old Nividia card driver, I some times have trouble updating my Nividia drivers when using Nividia Geforce Experience to update them I just download the latest driver from Nividia web site and just run the driver after it finishes downloading.

Glad to here you got some of your problem worked out. If you don't have very much free space on your C: drive, and try and update your Nividia driver useing Nividia Geforce Experience it can cause it to crash so the only way when that happens is to update Nividia drivers by hand.

Back to the PSU situation. I still don't trust this Mushkin Joule 1000 watt PSU. I haven't gotten word from my brother on whether or not he OC'ed anything when using it. I know he said it worked for him while he had the PSU as a loaner but doing what? Hopefully an answer is forthcoming soon. Also I used a utility to check the PSU for problems but the information it said it would provide about a PSU I did not see. I was using HW Monitor.
When I talked about worrying about the PSU and/or video card there were anomalies when dragging something across the screen and then there was flickering happening when there shouldn't have been. The thing is though at the time it was doing this I think the pc was using the HD 3000 graphics. I disabled it though. I find it odd though it would be using it when a graphics card was installed. Also like I already said in a previous post I had to disable it in Windows. I found that odd.

You might want to contact the motherboard manufacture and see if they can give you instruction on how to disable on chip graphic's in the bios. There should be an option in the Bios to disable the on chip graphics. I can't give you any clues because I don't have an Intel CPU with on chip graphics.

Funny thing I was sure there was this option before. I will look and see though if there is a BIOS update for the board that maybe addresses this. Also I don't know how but maybe I missed the option. I am confident though .. 100% sure .. there was nothing there to do it. : S

You probably saw it, you just didn't know it was the option to disable it. Just like I am suppose to be able to disable secure boot in my laptops bios, but I never saw an option that made sense that was the option to disable it. That why I suggested you contact your motherboard manufacture and see if they can give you detailed instruction on how to disable on chip graphics.