That looks pretty cool. I’m interested, but I don’t really trust kickstarters…
I can understand that, my “trust” in this is that it is a totally “real” thing in that it, or at least many very similar, has been built before, all parts proven and reliable. This is just a nice package for all of them. I see no reason it will not come to be exactly as good as or better than they show.
They have all ready replied to a concern on the space bar not being stiff enough because it is so thin.
Edit: I should probably make clear, I have not backed this, but I am tempted.
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Same here.
Same here also. The layout I want, aluminum build, bluetooth, usb-c, and cheaper than a k-type.
The black keyboard with purple backlighting would maje a great Purple Heart themed keyboard
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I have had nothing but issues with the two mechanical keyboards that I have used. Both being from Corsair, and both having similar issues.
The first was a Corsair K65. It had severe double typing issues, and eventually suffered some kind of power surge that ended up melting its internal wire connections between the wire and PCB.
My current Corsair K95 has double typing issues as well as an issue where the left shift key likes to not register for a second or so, which causes me nothing but issues when attempting to type passwords.
Both used Cherry MX Red switches. Both used on two different computers with the same issues cropping up for both.
I never really learned to type “properly”. While I do use the standard home keys, most of my key strokes are done with my pointer and middle fingers of both hands. I rarely use my ring fingers for typing except for the backspace key for some reason, and my pinkies take care of any outlying buttons, namely shift keys, ctrl keys, etc. With my left thumb always operating the space bar. I manage to have a fairly decent speed, at least I like to think so.
Any thoughts on these experiences? These are the only mechanical keyboards I have ever used for any length of time, and I’m not sure if there’s something going on with the keyboards, or if it’s an issue with the way I type.
(for those who know me, this happens regardless of my current intoxication level. I have no issues with typing at working using bog standard Dell original equipment type keyboards. I generally type short sentences for tech notes for repair tickets.)
That’s probably not internal to the keyboard. If it’s between the cable and the PCB, you’re probably dealing with something wrong on your system.
I have that problem with Windows, but not Linux. Not sure why…
Hmm, that sounds like it could be a polling issue.
Do you have another computer you can test with? I’d like to try to rule out the PC itself being the problem.
I’ve tried the K95 on another system that the K65 was never on, same issue. A relatively milk-toast I3 office build with no GPU and a 300W PSU.
My previous system was a 4690k with a Gigabyte mATX board, GTX 970 GPU, and SeaSonic 750W 80+ Gold power supply.
That system DID have another power issue with an EVGA FTW GTX 660 GPU. It had an issue where it would boot wonky, and all video playback and sound would be choppy and HORRIFICALLY distorted. EVGA replaced my 660 but said the only way to replicate this was an issue with the PSU, however once I switched to the ASUS Strix 970 I never had ANY issues. I used the K65 on the system I am currently using (7700k, 1080ti, 1000W EVGA P2 80+Platinum PSU) for about two months before it fried itself.
My research (google-fu) into that GPU issue was that that specific model of GPU was extremely finicky with “unstable” voltages over the 12V rail. At this point we reach my limited understanding of electricity.
I hate corsair for my own quality issues. But anyway.
Repeating keys sounds like chatter. Does dirt/grit get into the keyboard often? Should not happen with Cherry MX, it has been known in clones in the past. Corsairs caps/case design do not help much, completely open but at least you can blow them out easy enough.
No idea what happened your PCB and wires, that sounds like way more power than USB should be able to put out. But Corsairs cables are a little insane, think inch think audio nonsense cable.
I did what I wanted to and should have done from the beginning, bought a Filco also with MX reds. I thought more was better but the k95 (also reds) was a nightmare. So I got a Filco Ninja TKL and a set of blank caps soon after, forced myself to learn the keyboard and it worked. It is the only board I have Wanted and will be the last board I own if I get rid of them. The others are cool oddities that make my life easier. I don’t type particularly well at all either. But that should not bother the switches at all.
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Filco’s look nice. But I like illumination, helps me see (some times I do look at my keyboard.)
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I can see, that. Check out Ducky, basically Filcos with lights.
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I wanted MX Blues anyways, but Corsair stopped making the K95 (or never did make it) with those before I had the money to buy one.
I don’t think it’s chatter, because often I get the second letter of the double type after having already typed another key that has appeared on the screen.
I don’t like the open design either, but for a different reason. Basically, they could have made the keyboard look WAY better if they had given the space between the switches a white paintjob. Would have made the RGB appear much brighter. Instead of a black brushed aluminium that absorbs the light.
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I was pretty interested, despite it being a kickstarter… this review kind of ruined it for me though.
tl;dr(w? watch…?) choc whites click a little bit before the actuation and there will never be software, so it’ll always be limited to the predetermined colours it has loaded. He goes on to say the red/browns probably don’t have the issue but personally I was only interested in the choc whites. The colour thing doesn’t bother me too much, I’d probably just set it to white anyway.
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Ah thanks for the video. Whites were also my go to if I jumped at this. But other factors have made it unavailable to me anyway, not that I needed another board, that would make the fifth one and I have plans for another all ready.
Hi,
I got an alps64 keyboard yesterday i am attempting to change the keybinds.
when doing dfu-programmer atmega32u2 read --debug 10 i get a Memory read error
i can do not know what to make of this, am i doing something wrong?
–debug 100 https://pastebin.com/hfUrHjwy
–debug 100000 https://pastebin.com/P9aTDuys
[edit]
It has a working config but the config is weird so i would like to read it/change it
[edit2]
it uses tmk as it’s firmware
[edit 3]
Looks like i was doing something wrong, i can only write and not read to memory. so everything is fine now
Sorry, software is not my end of things. Had a quick look on reddit, I will look a bit more but maybe this is some help?
General redder dearch for DFU:
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/search?q=dfu&restrict_sr=on&sort=relevance&t=all
The /r/MK programming wiki page, should have something useful:
Thanks for taking the time.
Would reddit be a better place to ask?
I know a few people have programmed boards, one even designed his own PCB. But I can’t remember who, they are somewhere above.
But yeah there are some good resources around reddit is my preferred place but there is also the likes of geekhack and deskthority which very great sources in forum layout.
yikes what is that w doing
If anybody is using Kailh BOX switches,
TL;DR The BOX switch stems are a smidgen larger than the Cherry specs and can lead to stretched or cracked stems on keycaps.
If i am looking for a good pok3r compatible case for a 60% keyboard, should i just try to get a pok3r case or does anyone know of any good full cover/non floating keyboard cases?
I found this on massdrop (still need to see if it is compatible), but i don’t know much about this kind of thing [lambo-60-anodized-aluminum-case]
Keyboard is an alps64, the one i got second hand has a really cheap plastic case which needs to go