Pull the caps and see if the “hands” are touching fully when you actuate the switch. Thats what the culprit was for me on a couple switches.
The metal contacts in above that are in the middle of the switch.
is it somewhat easy to fix? i feel like i should just ask for a refund otherwise.
If the hands are still there, yes its pretty easy.
If not then refund.
Oh also this is how to pull the switches
If my earlier explanation wasnt quite enough lol
well, the shift key came off super easily that way. struggling to get any of the regular keys off, pulling from either side with an acceptable amount of force.
They kind of… Pop off Takes more force than youd think.
yeah, i’m getting the hang of it
now how do i put them back on? 
You just put them on and push them back over/onto the switch. Like how you did with the space bar lol. Except all the way.
alright, thanks for walking me through this! Yeah i don’t know what the problem was, but with every key it seemed like after i removed the cap and pressed down hard a couple times on the switch, it started registering every time. And now that i have the key caps back on it seems to be working fine.
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idk, had a couple lingering issues with a couple of the keys that seemed to be fixed after doing the same thing over again. Will have to wait and see if the problem is fixed long term.
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just grabbed a Unitek keyboard with these on it
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Mitsumi_miniature_mechanical
and also an Apple Extended II that has an alps variant. Need a cord though.
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I so want an ALPS board but there are scant few caps for them. I know there are a few but nothing I really like.
I might end up grabbing an AEK at some stage to harvest the caps as they are quite nice looking. In time I will look up what they are, would be great if they were PBT dye sub and I could dye them with the legends.
Oh the possibilities. Still meaning to make a Planck board, that could be a good candidate…
Maybe two, one MX and one ALPS.
There’s quite a few Apple Extended I and II boards out there for $30-50 if you wanted them just for the caps. They can’t really be adapted to normal computers anyway unless you have a $40 adapter lol so.
Heck you could harvest both the caps and switches and have a really nice tactile, dampened alps keyboard with them on it.
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It would appear after a bit of research my AEK II has Mitsumi switches that are alps mount, a 1989 board which is one of the less common ones.
Really good tactile switch though.
@Zibob I figured this out finally because the entire switch is white, not just the middle part. Wheee for the many clones lol
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Was watching stranger things and got distracted.
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Well now this keyboard is in NYC so not too much longer to wait, probably a day or three.
Also will be getting my Apple ADB to USB adapter in week or two, it just left Hong Kong so will see. Then I can use my above mentioned AEK II keyboard. Will update on both of those.
Well… My SA 1965 keycaps finally arrived today. (Took almost a year to get here!)
I’m a little upset with them because in the render that orange was a lot more red but apparently the designer of the keycaps changed the color during mid production. I honestly wished he didn’t.
I also have a small issue with the spacebar. One of the stems a bit loose than the other making it kinda hard to type on. Anyone have a fix for this?
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Is your keyboard stabilized there or not?
Because that looks like an unstable space bar.
The little stabilizers only do so much, for some sets you definitely need the wire stabilizer too.
Yee, it’s definitely on there. I flipped the spacebar around to see if it would happen on that one stem and it did. (Has Cherry MX Stabilizer)