but im not looking for a model m again.
sorry I missed it. Almost ANY liniar switch is going to be pretty quit. adding dampers will be more so. Do you stilll want it to be tactile w/o the click? or just smooth and quit?
I like the model M once. And then I tried the model F and i will never use another Model M again lol.
Because until the late 2000’s, other than unicomp model M’s, it was the only choice most people had. Now the patent on Cherry switches has run out there’s a massive influx of gateron,kailh, etc.
My one of my current daily keyboards is a WYSE PC Enhanced with old MX blacks, but it required some modding to get it working over USB and such but it’s quiet, and very nice keyfeel being vintage MX blacks. They are not that common though.
A more modern MX black keyboard (or MX red, slight difference in weight of the switch but otherwise the same) will probably be what you want to look for from (insert brand here)
A few examples:
MX red from corsair
MX Silent which are copies of the above mentioned switch but with (iirc dampeners) to silence them more
the type of double clicking in the space invader switches are quite interesting, timestamped
uses a modified linear switch with a follower arm that generates the clicking, with a click when you press the key down and also when you (unpress? lol) the key
It’s because the MX switch was invented by cherry and they were they only ones you could get up until recently. When then clones first came out, particularly khail was mentioned a lot, they had quality issues. Sticky keys, not smooth travel, chatter causing multiple presses, these were worked out pretty quickly and now yes many of the clones are ever bit as good or in some cases regarded as better than Cherry.
It is only the past few years that clones have come out
As a side note I have a batch of Gateron switches with a flaw that was fixed, the housing around the stem is just a little small so catches the bottom of the key caps where they attach to the stem sometimes at certain angles. So not all perfect all the time, cherry have a reputation for consistency just not out right top quality all the time.
@ProSonicLive as people have said liner are pretty quiet, especially if you do not bottom out the press and hit the cap off the switch.
You can get the mentioned silents that help with that, it they are pretty expensive and only available in certain boards which are also very expensive compared to other offerings with regular linear switches.
Tactile switches are also silent n that they do not clock but do have a bump on the stem to let you feel when the key actuates, these are also quiet though you do get a little more “rumble” as the bump is registered and the extra vibration is passed into your desk. This is easily mitigated by having a desk mat or other soft thing under the keyboard, also helps with the thump from bottoming out linears.
To get the same effect as the MX Silent switches you can get O-Rings that you put under the keycaps and they take up the impact between the cap and the switch, though only do it on the down stroke, I believe the MX silents have rubber on the down and up strokes.
I need to get one of those.
Where can I get one, I dont see one on Amazon.
Well there is three options.
The XT model F is easy to find, is around $100 on eBay but needs an active XT to USB adapter (which are like $40). Mine is in the OP to give an idea of what those are like.
The second is getting an AT Model F. Which are EXPENSIVE but a more normal layout. (They usually are $250+ on eBay.)
Or you can get the brand spanking new ones that @Big_Al_Tech has linked here a number of times that are modern layouts & USB… But cost an arm and a leg.
Woot, the Space invader switch keyboard is here!
It’s definitely interesting to type on. I have no idea how to really explain this as it’s so different than a lot of the other switches I’ve tried but here goes. The switch at once feels incredibly smooth (as it’s based on a really good linear design) but also has a tactile, clicky actuation on every up and down stroke due to the design of the switch with the follower arm style clicking mechanism. Overall the switch is a fairly light (somewhere between MX blacks and blues) switch, with almost as nice of a tactile click as a Model F with a semi-similar noise profile (albeit quieter.) I’m very impressed by these switches.
As a side note the bigass enter takes some getting used to lol, mainly because of the fact it means the backspace key is TINY. Only minor issue with this keyboard is the enter key sometimes is sticky, which is probably due to age or something like that. I’ll probably build a new case for this as well because the current one is in shambles (also due to age).
I do like the old school layout though
Also tag of @ProSonicLive
NICE! The only complaint I would have would be the small backspace…But I want one.
Could just be the stabilisers have some dirt on them.
I was going to see if that’s the case but due to the design of the switch I’m not entirely sure how to safely take the caps off lol.
I will however be looking at making a new case for the thing out of plexi and or wood so will see how it goes. As the current case is rather falling apart… So will probably be taking it apart soonish anyway and cleaning and so forth.
Well this will be… Fun to take apart … (Photo from another keyboard with Black space invaders found on deskthority)
You are probably right though might just be dirty or something.
That is a lot of… something.
At least there are only a few stabilised keys to deal with [/silverlining]. Keep us updated with the case when that is happening, sounds like fun.
Apparently, after a bit of research, the keys arent that hard to take off, theres just a specific way to do it. You pull them from the side, not just from the top. So they arent too annoying. The bigass enter and other modifiers are a bit more difficult but same basic idea.
Steelseries 6Gv2 - black switches
I’ve had this solid keyboard for a while and the keycaps were starting to look all funky and glistenin. bought a matte white, matte black, and matte clear top coat spray cans (clear top coat important to protect keycaps from glistenin) . took the keyboard apart (ezpz) and the whole process took about an hour? (left it overnight to dry)
If I got an M, that is the one I want.
That and a new brain in it to reprogram it, but brings a tear to my eye to see based ISO on it too.
Yeah, wanted a replacement to my old one that got stolen back in 2003 so grabbed this for $39.99 + $20 shipping off of ebay.
Huh. What a strange design.
Easy enough to clean though, seems to have fixed it.
actually ended up just removing the stabilizer. that was what was causing the issue so.
Also bare shot:
Seems to have an XT/AT switch as well.
Also for those interested i made a short video (12 seconds) that shows how the switch works.
The design is a modified linear switch. The follower arm on the outside of the switch is what makes the click on both the up and down strokes, and the switch itself is a linear design that holds the two “hands” apart when resting. and as you push down on the switch, the “hands” get closer until they touch and actuate. Very interesting design.