Well people around me take them out all the time for weight reduction and they can be found for like $100.
The original one is allot nicer imo,
its going to be an iconic classic in the future.
The 4C and 8C are just art.
That’s no good. Make sure the next time you test drive it both of you have an open schedule. You need to take it on the freeway and drive it at various throttle loads. Also don’t for get to drive it normally too, sometimes there are problems that don’t manifest except under light to no throttle (trans, prop shaft, and diff play/slop).
Fortunately brake systems are pretty simple. If the fluid level is good then it’s most likely water in the brake fluid from condensation overtime. I’d start with flushing your brake fluid.
It shouldn’t be the brake pads, but it’s not a bad idea to have a look at those.
Another small problem. $2, a hammer, and no more than 2 hours later you’ll have a new stud installed.
I was going to mention that this could be a problem, but your self aware. Very good. Also you have an entire day for that to wear off. Though it’s probably good you didn’t have the cash XP.
Anyway, I hope everything works out to make it a good purchase for you, but don’t be afraid to talk him down, or walk away if you’re not sure (I know it’s so hard to walk away from something like that), though from what you said doesn’t sound too terrible. How much was he asking?
Haha me too! I love all the glorious sounds turbocharged cars make, you don’t even have to be breaking the law to make them. I love it!
My Volvo can sound like Darth Vader. I made a video but it kinda sucked.
I’d like to add that you should also test the clutch. When you’re going at about 2500rpm, Rev it to 4500ish, (about 1/8 to 1/4 throttle, whatever it needs) and dump the clutch. Make sure the revs pop back down real quick. It shouldn’t be instantaneous, but it should be quick.
I’m dealing with a soft pedal on my Miata right now. If the rubber lines going from the body of the car to the calipers are original, they could be replaced or upgraded to braided steel to stiffen up the pedal feel as well. (some cars also need a master cylinder brace, but that depends on the car)
Factory exhaust is usually pretty beefy, doubt it’s been rusted through. The shielding is always the first to go. Toss it, get a header blanket and make sure you don’t have any serious problems with exhaust leaks upstream of the cabin. Exhaust leaks are a good way to die.
I would recommend buying it, @KemoKa73. Just make sure you sort the brakes and the lug first, then attack the structural rust, then work down the superficial rust.
I have plans to swap mine out for the Bravada dash, which I’ve picked up, but I’m going to be changing the color of the lights and needles before I install it. I’m not sure what color yet, but I’m leaning towards light blue or deep orange (lot more red then stock).
I’m going to see about rubbing off the “Bravada SmartTrack”. It doesn’t seem to glow so I think it can be done.
Edit: I also want to see if I can hide/get rid of the km/h for a cleaner look.
This is how it would have gone but 10 minutes before I arrived he texted saying he needed to leave soon after answering my up front questions (family emergency) and left me and my dad with the keys to drive the car on our own - and then we were needed back home at 6. Again, would have been a different story if the guy hadn’t lost his phone because then he would have contacted me that morning. I would have taken someone else along, but that would require friends, lol. Something something circumstances, it’s fine. We should have more time next time around, so I don’t think taking it to the freeway will be a problem.
$2500 for the car, $2700 with the access port - which is a dead handy little device. It’s scraping right up against the limits of my budget, so I’m going to see if I can bring it down. It’s already well underneath KBB and NADA pricing - the salvage title will have done that, but I’m thinking how much I can talk him down with the rust and the brakes. The body rust doesn’t bother me that much - it’s localized and in places you’d expect and with some elbow grease, bondo and touch-up will be good as new in no time. We’ll see.
kek, that’s neat! Sounds like Darth Vader’s mini-me.
Thanks, I’ll definitely do that.
It was in the ad, but he showed me the braided steel brake lines he has on hand that will come with the car. I’ll put those in once the car is in good shape.
Cool! This is working out really well so far. Looking forward to tomorrow.
Made an account on NASIOC finally, I’m pretty sure I have the most boring car on there.
I thought about making an account but I’d probably feel like a complete idiot there, lol. A forum more about autos in general (that isn’t /o/) would be more up my alley.
Don’t worry, they have a newbie corner there.
To be frank I fully intend to just build a little trust there before jumping into the BST, especially if Craigslist doesn’t work out with the blue car.
This morning the VDC, hill assist, and ABS lights were all on in the new car.
The one thing I really like about older cars is that there’s less shit to break on them.
EDIT: Google search says brake light sensor or ABS wheel speed sensor.
yeah 20% tint all round, those are rokblokz mudflaps, for the rear i just have a jdm style third fog light, perrin gurney flap and rear splats on the side. looking for a rear diffuser but wow they are expensive, thinking of making my own.
This. After they started putting tons of computers in them to make driving “easier”, “safer” and “less miserable (and more distracting)” at the same time, it just makes driving modern vehicles a huge pain in the ass.
Prime example. Also known as “cheating” /s
haha i leave hill assist on, i treat it like it’s not there. most of the time i dont even notice it.
Hill assist actually isn’t horrible once you get used to it. It also helps when somebody decides that your rear bumper is the perfect place to stop on a hill. Supposedly helps the longevity of the clutch too.
I’ve been driving a manual for a decade-ish so I don’t really need it, but’s nice to have. I only wish there was a button or switch for it I could use on the fly, that way I could keep it off when not needed.
I also drove my old car go work today. It’s definitely a much more “raw” driving experience compared to newer Subarus. And the close ratio transmission is still pretty awesome.
Quick update: Turns out it is the brake light sensor that’s making my gauge cluster light up like a Christmas tree. It’s also covered under warranty so it’s getting new parts at a dealership right now.
Boy are warranties nice.
oh man… dealerships, good luck
It’s the same dealership my father worked at for like a decade, and he’s the one that brought the car in. It should be in capable hands
All the pieces are in line. Now all that is left to do is drive down to Hudson tonight…
Good, good. Just don’t be too throttle happy on your way back, considering no brakes and lack of lugs.
Will do. Engine braking should help a fair bit. I don’t think I’ll be able to drive it home tonight. No temporary plates, you see. I can get them tomorrow, take them down and drive back up then. I’ll just make this an “I’ll buy the keys and title, and the car and bill of sale get thrown in for free” type of deal.