yeah the DE’s and DET redline around 7500
Haha, that would be why I wasn’t finding it with a Google search hahaha. Honestly I should have known.
Anyway, I thought we where talking about something around that 2L mark. Just wanted to make sure. I’ll have to look into them more.
If you couldn’t tell I don’t really know anything about Nissan either. I have an unhealthy fascination with odd cars.
Though both Nissan and Toyota have very unique cars that I’d be very interested in.
Well there are more cool 2.0 4 cilinder engines.
But the SR20VET´s are definitelly some of the sweeter ones.
Vauxhall also had a really nice C20LET engine.
Found the videos of them tuning it…
That intercooler is insane on that first one. Are those numbers KW or HP?
HP at the wheels
Both are same car… thats the one I was talking about… bone stock VE motor with huge turbo… It got close to 600whp before it lifted the head and the jumped timing.
Man that’s crazy. I assume they have iron blocks? Do they come with forged parts?
AL blocks but iron or steel piston sleeves.
not forged that I ever heard of… the VETs might of had forged pistons… maybe… idk but normal VEs didnt. The VETs only came in the japan model Xtrail GT
That’s a very interesting motor. I’ve got some research to do.
My current favorite is the Volvo Whiteblock more specifically the turbo five cylinder (in cars with the “T5” badge), but I own that engine so I definitely have a biased towards it. I’m always looking for new (mostly unique) engines and cars to look into, and this one (SR20) has my attention. I do wish I had forged internals, though it doesn’t seem to really need it.
Mazda’s BP engines have forged cranks, and Volvo Red Blocks have forged cranks and rods, but they’re both iron blocks so very heavy.
Never get tired of watching this stuff, although it gets me appreciating the simplicity of electric cars.
Maybe not the right place, but I was wondering if you car folk might have some insight into a problem with my ladyfriends car.
Check engine light comes on periodically, OBD code says its a “transmission input shaft speed sensor problem.” The issue is causing the car to shift a bit harder than normal, and it takes a bit more gas to get the car rolling than usual.
How tough of a fix is this (on a 2001 Hyundai Elantra)?
I can manage simple stuff like an oil change, but beyond that I am not much use on a car.
You’re more than welcome to ask for help here. Might have better luck on a Hyundai forum though.
Did she recently give it a transmission fluid swap?
Is the “needing more gas to get rolling” intermittent with the MIL or is it constant?
No. Might be worth checking the fluid level though. I will have her do that.
There are some days where the car works perfectly fine, but a few times a week the light will come on and this issue will pop up.
It usually goes something like this:
- Giving car gas, at stoplight or up a hill or whatever
- There is a lurch and a metallic sounding “thunk” that feels like a rough gear change, engine light comes on
- After stopping again, getting the car rolling now requires a bit more gas. She reports it feels like the clutch is not all the way engaged, requiring about a thousand more RPM to get moving.
Diagnosing a car via the internet is usually a bad decision on computer controlled cars, as it is not possible to take into account all of the possible variables needed for a proper diagnosis.
That being said, I would look to see if there is a speed sensor. There may be several of these, depending upon the car. It may be located at the bell housing, transmission, or in the drive axle, or a combination of these. Check for proper power, ground and operation. As this may be a digital sensor, tools such as an oscilloscope may be needed. You may also be able to get away with a multimeter.
I know this is a vague answer, but without a proper diagnosis, it is diffucult to know for sure what to look for. But, the above suggestion is where I would start, if it was mine.
this sounds like a low fluid issue.
since many newer cars have “lifetime fluid” in the transmission, there may not be a way to check the fluid level. i guess the manufacturers think the trans will never have a leak or something.
And on the “lifetime fluid” front, what an absolutely horrible idea that was. For a car with 250k miles on it (like mine) the transmission is toast because of that. If it was normal and could be changed every 50k or so I’ll bet my transmission would be fine right now. Damned near planned obsolescence territory.
Sorry, please continue with the diagnosis of the Hyundai transmission problem.
I’d say if it’s throwing a speed sensor code you should be focusing on that. If the sensor isn’t reading right and the transmission is entirely electronically controlled the car has no idea (or a bad idea) of how fast the car is moving, or if it’s even moving at all. Sounds like it may be intermittent if the car drives fine sometimes, but not others. If it decides to not read right when stopped at a light, it makes sense that the car would feel sluggish to take off because the computer doesn’t know or can’t tell the car is moving. Or attempting to move.
Then again, I may be totally wrong. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the title.
if the fluid level is to low, the pump will not pump enough fluid to the rest of the transmission. this results in the plates slipping and the speed on the engine does not match the expected speed of (as shown by the sensor) of the vehicle.
once the pump catches up everything suddenly works as it should and it suddenly (and often harshly) shifts , resulting in the “clunk” the OP described (and possibly the light going out after a bit).
Very true. If possible check transmission fluid level.
This stuff is just too good