In Europe. That 3.2 was ~260hp in the US. They decided to chop its legs out to keep costs down or some shit.
Yeah, the M cars are always good options if you can get your hands on a non-molested version, but those go for $10k here
RE: SR20DE, there’s no reason to talk about the SR20DE without the T. It’s a great engine, yeah. I’ve got a buddy with a 9k RPM top-end and he makes nearly 350HP from it too.
Yea the SR20DET is nice,
But even the NA SR20´s are great, especially the older highported redtops, which are basiclly SR20DET´s without T.
And tere are also special versions with variable valve timing aswell.
SR20VE´s and SR16VE, and there for also a SR20VET.
Those can rev upto 9000rpm, like the Honda Vtecs B18
$500 in parts to completely redo the brakes on my car.
I really didn’t want to spend that kind of money on the car right now, but I’m even more tired of dealing with the warped rotor(s) that are on it.
Good. Safety #1!
I figure first comes to worst it will help sell the car for a little more.
Brand new rotors, brand new pads, and fresh reman calipers on all four wheels.
O’Reilly’s can turn your rotors for $15 a piece, or you could make a gamble at a junkyard.
Depending on how much meat is left on the rotors, you might not be able to turn them down to be flat again. Plus, if they’re warped, you can still have balance issues after running them down.
Brand new Brembo OEM style rotors were $42.75 each, really not too horrible of a price.
I’m also just glad to know that there are decent quality parts going on the car. I replaced the plugs and wires in the fall and not only were the previous Napa wires terrifyingly thin, the plugs had carbon tracking all over each of them. It was bad enough it gave me a misfire in cylinder 4. Replaced everything with good parts (which were also the cheapest somehow) and that misfire has been gone for over six months now.
Damn, that’s pretty good.
I try to replace everything with OEM or equivalent parts, unless an upgrade is only a little more money and doesn’t scream ricer. I’ve honestly lucked out on getting parts, I’ve been able to find everything except the recently acquired brake pads for cheaper than normal.
Also helps that labor is free.
Labor is only free if your time is worth nothing to you.
It’s a learning experience, so the time is being used as a tradeoff for the knowledge, actually being productive is a bonus 
That’s definitely a good way to look at it.
I see it that way, along with the whole part where, I have not had a good experience at a motorcycle shop. Car has been well only since I switched to a shop a good buddy works at. I’m tired of “Well you should really do this.” “Can you do what I came in for?” “Well yea, -” “Then do it” Or “Honda brand oil will add horsepower to your bike”
Oh god, that’s some shit there, huh.
We had to have the cv joints replaced on the A5 since they were going… One shop quoted $2600 to do it, found the parts for $500, did it myself last weekend. I learned something important: I never want to work on an Audi again for as long as I live.
Subaru head gaskets are like that. Parts are like $250 altogether, but the labor is like 8-12 hours. Could easily tack $1200 onto the repair just because of labor.
And that’s just for the head gasket repair. If they claim other bogus things like clutch or transmission service it gets even higher.
And I’m probably not going to be getting an Audi now.
Everything I’ve seen says that you should use premium fuel in both the 2.0T and the 3.2 V6 and I’m simply not going to pay an extra $0.50 a gallon for gas and still probably get less mileage than my current car.
Is that a starter under the manifold? I never seen such a thing.
Yes it is. Run. Run as fast as you can.
That is just retarded. What if you breakdown on the side of the road and your starter goes bad. And wouldn’t the heat from the engine cause premature failure to the laminated field wingdings?