Yep its in. Need to fiddle with the cross member some more.
Still plenty to be done. Brake lines, fuel lines, wiring and a list of other small things.
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More work on the Miata.
Got the AC to work today!
That said, it wasn’t what I intended to get working. 
I’m placing an order for a radiator, since mine is fucked. Apparently it leaks. I didn’t know this until I realized that my overflow bottle was empty and the radiator has about 4in of air in it. Welp, time to get an upgrade.
Also, I tuned the car to idle at 15.3 rather than 14.1 now, so it smells much better, and doesn’t piss off the neighbors while I’m working on it.
Now for the ranty part:
I’m going to have to email back and forth with ECU support team because the goddamn tachout doesn’t seem to be fucking goddamn working.
Everyone says Option Plug Pin 4 -> 1k resistor -> 1H on instrument cluster. That’s what I did.
Not getting an output.
I am also having problems with launch control. It just flat-out doesn’t seem to be working. I’m going to have to take the car for a drive to see for sure if it’s working or not, but the indicator in tunerstudio isn’t showing up.
I was hoping to take it out tomorrow for a ride through the canyons with a lady friend, but if I can’t get launch control and the tach to work, I’m probably not going to do that.
In other automotive news, the tilt function on the telescoping steering wheel in the benz stopped working. It still goes forward and back, but it’s stuck at the top of it’s range on the up/down axis. I’m a short guy. Not fun.
Gonna have to get the Benz in for a look see one of these days. Only 30 days till I need maintenance anyways, so I’ll probably do it there.
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Also, these little rotor retaining screws suck. Had to drill this one out. Front driver one broke during the transmission swap, too. Some day I’ll figure a way to get the remaining studs out of the hubs. Makes getting the wheels back on a bit of a hassle when the rotors are spinning and misaligned.
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Just leave them out then. They’re not needed. They’re just for convince when bolting on a wheel or changing brake pads.
Of course that would make those jobs a bit trickier since you’ll have to lineup the holes for the lug bolts to thread in.
So, took the RGV out for a ride yesterday through the hills.
I forgot how great it is 
Needs a rear shock rebuild as it has very little damping, but damn… the thing sings between say 80-160 km/h, and you can actually use the gears without very rapidly approaching “go directly to jail” speeds.
So much lighter than my 600 or 1000.
IF anyone in the states is looking for a similarly fun canyon carver without going 2 stroke, you’ll be looking for things like CBR/FZR/GSX-R/RVF 400s…
Won’t quite be quite as light, but they’ll have that similar power level that is “enough” to be fast and give you the opportunity to work the gearbox without go-to-jail speeds being incurred before you even get into the power band…
edit:
Also. While picking up the bike. A guy travelling on the other side of the road did a u-turn to come and ask me if the thing was for sale. They’re super rare now. The last time i saw another one in the real world was 2015.
Dropped my Saab 93 off to the bodyshop to get the rear fixed. Hope everything goes well.
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I just have one car at the moment, and it’s also the first I bought with my own money
Volvo S60 2.5T AWD with a Manual 5 speed
It’s completely stock right now.
I’ve owned it for a little over a year now. I bought it with 138k Km’s and it now has almost 150k.
So far I did a complete service, changed the top engine mount, PCV System, Front Discs and Pads and both the Inner and Outer Tie-rod End.
All done at home by the way.
Currently the front engine mount needs to be replaced and I suspect I have a wheel bearing going bad.
In the near future I’m planing on buying a cheaper car, possibly one that’s already running on LPG for my daily commutes, because daily driving a car that averages 11-12 l/100km (19-21MPG) in a country where the gasoline prices hover around the 1.6€/L (6$ per gallon) mark does take it’s toll 
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My Fiat 500 has an issue with its clock.
Its always 5 minutes late, always, it doesn’t matter if i put 5 minutes early, 10 minutes maybe, give it a week (two if its 10 minutes) it will be 5 minutes late.
Anybody know what is this about?
Found this while snooping about on the forums…
500 are known for a slow clock, so apparently it’s a wrong size capacitor from the factory and the whole cluster has to be changed.
Seems to be a well know issue with those cars, some people just get fed up and stop caring, others change the entire cluster 
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Thanks Kaizer!
Well, i guess i’ll have to ignore it then, just add +5m to the time, no idea how much a cluster costs…
Put some cushion on my a rest since it was pretty rough when I rested my elbow there. Feels nice enough to nap on.
It ain’t pretty and it ain’t perfect but it works.
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Seems like you could probably just swap out the cap, if you’re so inclined.
It’s a beautiful car, I looked for an AWD S60, but I couldn’t find any nearby.
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It’s italian. It’s “fashionably late”.
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Very cool car! The AWD 5 speeds are incredibly rare here in the US.
I’ve owned a few Volvos. 02 S60 AWD auto, 00 C70 HTP manual, and a 99 V70 GLT that I swapped to manual along with swapping in a sportier T5 engine (240 BHP).
I’m a big fan of these 5 cylinder engines!
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When it’s easier to lift the car rather than the engine hahahaha
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