different sites recommend different products.
so sadly i can’t.
Holy wonky house of windows batman
Ohio has lots of weird houses from the 50s /end off topic
What does the manufacturer spec?
My above post is based on what i have read on various coolant bottles/etc. You want facts yet you can’t even specify what is in the thing currently. Might not even be coolant.
The info is readily available if you want to actually look.
A coolant flush periodically isn’t a bad idea anyway. Maybe that’s the best course of action. If you don’t know the history of a vehicle, its best to start fresh. I just did all of the oils in my ute for example (inc. gearbox and diff) because i didn’t know when they were last done. Now i know.
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[censoring this post due to being far too erotic for a publicly visible thread] -Kewldude007
Trump Itasha was too much I suppose.
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Ordered my Class 3 tow hitch from Tyger Auto and trailer harness from Hopkins. Should be here Thursday. Excited but heard you have to drop the bumper. Should take me the morning to afternoon to install.
Dad was looking into getting a Colorado as well since his 2018 Silverado costs so much on insurance plus his payments of $550 are really hurting his wallet. Maybe maybe not but he was looking into a ZR2 4x4 but we will see once we do a little tow test with my Colorado he’s got a 20ft camper that weighs about 4000lbs so Colorado should be fine but will it be comfortable is the question.
After the tow hitch I think I am pretty much done buying things for my truck will tally up everything when I show off all of it.
Kind of curious what do y’all think of my mileage? Already at 900 mi a the beginning of March. Not that I am going to put 20K miles a year on it. Just city driving to gym and work. I will give the girl a rest when it warms up and in summer time biking to the gym. Both free transportation and free cardio 
I love being able to see post history.
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Honestly, have you car ever gotten so much fault codes, its check engine light just basically gave up?
I don’t know where to begin. 3 AC idle up control valves later, and my car still idles like a broken diesel locomotive whenever the AC is activated, but I admit, the last 2 were picked from a car parts yard. Although, the 3rd valve I am going through right now isn’t that bad on some occasion; felt some vacuum on the intake valve of the idle up controller, but still not strong enough to tell the engine to idle more. Any ideas, before I may have to resort to a brand new part?
N.B.: Car’s normal idle still works fine.
Also, looking for an OBD2 scanner so that I can keep up to date on the check engine codes. Just in case new ones appear from the last time me and my uncle (who has like over 40 years of mechanic experience) checked the fault codes. Also, since I changed out an oxygen sensor because the old one was complaining problems, I also have to make an attempt to get rid off the code for that as well. Any recommendations for a decent scanner that isn’t too Hollywood-premium but can provide an accurate-enough fault codes?
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IACV is a tricky one. As long as they’re clean and they work at all, they should be fine. They’re kinda a “it works”, “it’s too dirty” or “it doesn’t work” part.
I’d clean the entire throttle body, IACV and intake manifold.
Uh, off the top of my head, I can’t think of any specific one. They all work off the ELM327 microcontroller, and that module is actually available for free. I talked to the company that manufactures them and they sent me 10 of the through-hole chip for free. I wound up making a RPI program that interfaces over the GPIO for it, a while back. Now though, spend $20 on any of the bluetooth OBD2 scanners in there and pick up OBD Fusion for iOS or Torque Pro for Android.
What car do you have?
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Damn. Was never into NASCAR but lawdy this was a good watch.
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Question for those with more experience working with parts that are fuckered before I go making a mess of apprentice marks all over everything.
https://www.satoracing.com/rearsets_parts_lists/VFR800.pdf Here’s the parts diagram, and this is what I see
Meaning this little fucker here, is ground into the other part. Theres a nut on the other end of this stud bolt. I want this bolt out of the peg so I can replace the bolt+peg. Whatcha think the best approach is? I thought some grips and a vice and Ill just strip the aluminum.
Is that outer bit that’s ground down a bolt or part of your shift lever?
Just the peg. That stud bolt goes through a bunch of spaces and tha lever to hold them in place.
edit: Considering that, I might just be able to twist that peg off as it sits first.
I’d figure. Everyone keeps saying “clean the throttle body”, “check for vacuum leak”, “check the MAF controller” and of course “check the idle control valve”.
Plenty of those here. I’ll give one a go.
Glad that someone finally asks that question to me, lmao, this:
Picture is not my actual car, just too lazy to take a pic of mine, but you get the idea. You may have heard of the SOHC version of it, but ever heard of a DOHC 4G64? 
Da fuq is dat?
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I don’t even know what that is.
Something that was only available to us and Japan
Except mine is slightly newer, though unreliable
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So many feels, Nascar was my childhood
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