On the contrary.
If I wanted that I’d buy a late 90’s Toyota Tacoma. Or maybe a pickup before they were called the Tacoma.
Edit: I should note that I actually saw an ad recently for the new Ranger pickups and Ford is pushing hard for the Subaru/Tacoma crowd. We’ll see how they fare; it looks like a great option though so I’m pretty curious.
I still plan on lifting the Crosstrek eventually. Given the wife is about to move and have a real income finally that might be sooner rather than later.
Finally got the damm bolts loose, after a week of showering them in wd-40 (no comment on wd-40 pls).
Now it’s time to make some spacers and lift the car.
Starting with 10mm spacers because of bolt length.
Any tips?
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Holy crap! I think I figured out how to drift my open diff S10.
I was trying different ways to initiate one on my way home (not a car in sight, and fields on both sides), and if I shift out of 1st at 2500rpm rev it to 3ish k and dump the clutch in second while giving the steering wheel a good jerk the back will step out. I was able to replicate it a few times, so I’m very stoked to find an empty parking lot to try this out in.
Oh, I should mention the ground was wet from rain earlier today.
I’m so freaking excited to try drifting!!!
Edit: BTW I was coming home from a buddies house and we were watching Initial D.
Eurobeat will make anyone have the skills to drift anything!
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Google “Norwegian flick”, rally race move.
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Listening to Eurobeat allows me to drift my AWD sedan somehow
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Yeah, I got it from Amazon. Search this thread for the word Amazon I posted a link
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Skylines, Supras, etc. were also delivered in Japan with a 109km/h bing-bong noise and a 180km/h limiter.
I wound my 180sx speedo around back to 0 more than once
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Haven’t gotten that far with the miata yet, but I’ll be doing that eventually.
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I did have > 310 horsepower at the rear tyres, so that helped 
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Dont worry, my plans are grand.
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Got an update on my RGV250.
Old motor = broken crank/rod(s), powervalve retaining pin broke, powervalve dropped into cylinder and killed the motor (common RGV design flaw). Aftermarket cougar valves in the new motor should prevent this ever happening again in future.
New motor is back in the bike, bike is running, but there’s some tuning issues to do with my aftermarket arrow pipes.
A lot of carby issues were sorted out however, due to the past 25+ years of neglect/abuse/crashes/rebuilds (this bike is now built from various bits of 3 bikes)/etc. there was a lot wrong with them in terms of vacuum line routing, vacuum leaks, worn parts, etc.
But, carbs have been ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt, just need re-jetting to tune for the arrow pipes.
Motor apparently feels strong already (guy doing my bike races them) but the tuning issue is a flat spot around 8,000 rpm (power only really starts at about 7k, redline of 12,500)
Maybe get it back next weekend, still has fork rebuild and new tyres to go.
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I need your advise,
My Hyundai tiburon (from 2000) uses G11 coolant (i think?
Manual says: “Ethylene glycol base for aluminium radiator”)
But i really don’t know whats in the car.
And it’s not readily available here.
It has an cast iron engine and aluminium radiator
My other car (from 2005) uses G12+ coolant, alu block and radiator.
can i flush the tiburon coolant and proceed filling it with G12+ in the future?
I BELIEVE glycol based coolants are mixable. But check with the manufacturer.
The different ratings are different mixes of water and coolant I believe.
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I really don’t know whats in it, color is not very telling either.
So i’d like facts.
I don’t know much about coolant. I just look at the jugs at the auto parts store, and see if anyone behind the counter knows.
The manual for my Volvo says it requires coolant that comes in the quart, and those quarts cost as much as the jugs. I thought screw that, and just looked for something for aluminum engines. I don’t know if it’s hurting my engine but I doubt I’ll have the car/engine to find out.
Can you order exactly what product is recommended online? If so… do that.