Really wish I had a phone with a working camera. Anyways, I got around to fixing my broken windshield wiper. Couldnt take pictures though 
Well got her installed. Thought it was going to be a nice quick 3 minute test. End up sitting at the lights for about a good 8 to 10 minutes lol.
Definitely sounds much better. Just a little meaner with a lower exhaust note.
Definitely want to hear it with an exhaust mod.
Looks pretty good but had to remove the damn engine cover to get the stock air box out.
Was going to say two of the bolts were a 7mm thread and the washers were all 5mm washers.
Just took a quick trip to Lowes and bout the button bolts and washers.
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Anime Culture Club? Lol
My carpet used to be good in my S10 but I lent it out and he gave it back to me with mud caked in like I’ve never seen. Hopefully it can shampoo it out, but if not I’ll look into what you got.
Ah, the Suburban is an 00 or 01 (don’t remember which). I whish it was an aluminum block, but it’s not.
I was going to try to get my hands on a Vortec 4200, but I’m worried about the transmission options.
The Vortec 4200 is a 4.2L aluminum block, dual overhead cam straight 6 making 270hp N/A. Very cool engine, and I will do something with it at some point.
Old video, but there’s not too many videos on this engine.
That’s the range I’ve been telling people I’m going to do.
Makes sense. With a properly sized turbo (i.e., one that is running inside its efficiency range when making enough airflow for that boost level on your engine) and decent intercooling, you should be able to net about 40-50% more power out of say 7 psi.
If you’re truly aiming for that power level and not much higher, i’d be looking for a 400-500 hp rated turbo or a pair of 200-250hp turbos, keeping at the smaller range with that level of boost the thing will be a low-down torque monster.
I went through a few turbos on my 180sx (SR20DET), one of them was a HKS GT-SS which was on the smaller side for an aftermarket turbo for a 2L motor. But damn… made the thing feel like a v8. Decent boost from 1500 rpm. Ran out a bit at the top end (beyond 6000), but for a street car you spend most of your time between say 2000-4000 rpm anyway.
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So, just got the invoice back for work to the little RGV 250.
It’s about $3k 
A fair bit to do, a fair whack of change, but the work will be done to a standard that i could never do myself.
- carbs ultrasonically cleaned
- engine swap over
- on the new donor engine: new pistons / rings / bearings / gaskets
- engine vapour blasted
- new fork stanchions / seals / etc.
- carb tuning
looking at 60+ hp at the tyre when its all sorted, which on a 130kg bike is a lot of fun 
I’ll make sure to get a go-pro video up when it’s sorted out.
How the hell do you expect +60 hp after a refurbish?
Or is it an entirely different engine?
Expect +6 hp (max) otherwise
60hp or more (hence, 60+, not “+60”) in total.
Not 60 additional horsepower…
You can build these to 70 ish though. But i haven’t built a race motor.
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Haha makes sense now! Excuse me
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Was thinking of grabbing one of those and throwing it in an old quad we got in my backyard. Shits probably super rusted and locked up though. Been sitting for at least 6 years.
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^^ 400 wheel horsepower car with usable powerband…
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Got the clutch release bearing installed. Had to order an input shaft collar as the stock one was too thicc for the bearing I bought.
Notched the cross member and had the hole enclosed. Also ordered some header gaskets, a hurst shift stick and speed dawg knob.
Think Im ready to install. Tomorrow should be a productive day.
Soon
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So. Old RGV engine post mortem. I snapped the crank.
I take it you made that beast?
No. I would rat rod my bronco though. White wall off road tires. And red and white pinstripe on black paint.
Pulled the motor out of my subi and tore it down for headgaskets then found a solution to never do them again.
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I like that solution, but I have a few concerns about that choice of motor.
Inb4: baited