When driving theres a noise emanating from ( i Believe ) the front right wheel hub, If i had to discribe it, sounds alot like how a bearing ball bearing would if one of the balls shattered…
So far ive had the wheel off, and visually inspected the area, hub spins by hand both ways as it should, with only the expected resistance from the weight of the diff, and no jerking or grinding noises… and no movement in any direction other than those expected either, as you would normally find with a dead wheel bearing…
Its not an engine or box issue, as the noise is not present when the car is stationary, and does not change in pitch or speed regardless of vehicle speed or gear…
Im at a complete loss, i could swear the wheel bearing is shot, but im loath to rip it apart on the grass next to my gravel driveway ( no actual garage lol ) just to do a visual inspection of a bearing that by all other accounts seems fine…
I am however going to check the rear wheel after the sun comes back up… just in case my ears are fucking with me… but i had a good hour of listening to it my way home today, so odds of that are pretty slim…
Whirring, squeaking, grinding? If you had to type out the sound…
How many miles? It’s possible the bearing needs grease. Sometimes, you’ll get a slight whirring from lack of grease, that doesn’t show up at low speeds.
Place a jack under the control arm and lift the tire off the ground. Leave the wheel tightened to the hub and wiggle it.
This gives you leverage while checking for play in the bearing and amplifies any feedback. This is also the best way to check ball joints FYI.
Checking ball joints with struts is a pita from what I remember. Taking the stress off it and keeping the joint from binding with the suspension extended was tricky.
Does the sound amplify or disappear when turning? Left vs Right?
I have a truck with integral hub bearings and it’s had a whirring noise ever since I bought it used. The noise disappears when turning left. From my research online that indicates the right side. I bought a new hub bearing and tried to replace it but I couldn’t get the old one off at the time. I’ve been driving it since and it hasn’t gotten any worse. My plan if it wasn’t the right side was to put the used right side onto the left side. The hubs are side agnostic.
I’ve had this before, but mine was coming from the A/C compressor. Maybe try turning on the A/C and see if the sound changes at all. I really feel this is your problem from what you’ve said.
driving manual is not hard but you do need to remember let the clutch out slowly and apply the gas gently to prevent stalling!
second if stick shift (on the floor) you need to hold your elbow out away from your body and shift strait up and down ( many people tend to hold their elbow tight to the body and this causes them to pull the shift at an angle and it binds in the neck of the transmission)
once you get used to driving standard you usually don’t want to go back to automatics.
i would rather drive a duece and a half with the hi- lo tranny and hi-lo differential rear end than i would drive the automatic van
So after a bit of fucking about, and several cups of tea and head scratching, i have found it…
Cant loosen off the bolts at the moment… not that it would matter, as i wont be able to source another gasket for about a week… so ive done what any self respecting home mechanic would do…
Ive drowned it in WD-40 till it went quiet… waiting for it not be flammable now, then ill take her for a drive…
Either way, its good to know it isnt terminal, and that my wheels arent going to fall off on the way to work… Also that i dont have to drive my not-currently-roadlegal project and risk big fines lol
The power valves i should have bought 10 years ago in order to ensure that my RGV250 engine doesn’t grenade itself (fixes suzuki design flaw with the stock items)…
There’s basically only one place in the world that makes them, and they’re a custom aftermarket part for a low volume 20+ year old GP replica bike
Basically they’re a 3 blade valve (2 assemblies per cylinder) that is pulled out of the cylinder to expand the exhaust port based on rpm range. Basically enabling the “power band” of the 2 stroke engine to be shifted up and down the RPM range - instead of one power-band surge when it comes on the pipe, this bike has 3 steps in the power band. One at 7,000, one at 10,000 or so and one at 11,000 rpm. It’s like VTEC but much more of a step and there’s 3 of them…
The stock valves have a hole through the middle blade, and a shitty little 2mm diameter pin that slips through it and holds the other 2 blades in place with a groove to allow them to slide.
What happens with the OEM ones is that the pin breaks and bits of power valve drop into the bore and smash shit out of your piston(s).
That round nub in the pic on each set of valves is what… 4-5mm and is part of the central blade. There’s no way that is snapping off.
Here’s what a dyno chart of one of these looks like. You can clearly see the steps in the power delivery (not my bike)
50-60hp out of 250cc. Or over 200HP/litre, naturally aspirated. Put that in your honda VTEC pipe and smoke it.
