LS it is then
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Ya know what? I think I’m gonna go test drive one. I’m building a small list of cars I need to check out. Ill add that to the list.
I think that’s probably fair though. But when you compare it to an audi, they both don’t have any soul. I think that’s more of what it was targeting Tbh. I mean, you don’t see Kia going after dodge, by doing burnouts in commercials or anything.
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What to do for air intake?
Paper filter that’s currently installed is basically brand new.
The AEM is washable and doesn’t need oiling. I don’t need it right now, but it’s cheap enough I might go for it
I have mixed feelings about cold air intakes. Some say it helps with throttle response and fuel economy, some say it’s a placebo. Some say oiled filters are bad for MAFs, some say it’s no problem if you don’t over-saturate the filter. I put an AEM cold air intake in my '06 VW GTI and didn’t notice any performance difference, but it did sound better and looked cool.
- Keep using paper filters
- Switch to AEM DryFlow drop-in filter
- Wait for paper to go bad, then switch to AEM
- Save up for Roush CAI
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I will throw my hat in for just keep using quality paper filter. Unless you are going to tune the thing, you are going to see actually worse HP, MPG and throttle response lol.
At least in my experience.
I believe the placebo effect from changing the air filter is just that, a new filter after having a dirty one for quite some time.
EDIT:
IIRC the only way the CAI works if its actually pulling air from outside the engine bay.
That’s the opposite of my experience, as I experienced on an axle dyno.
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Could be Turbo charged vs NA?
Disclaimer: I only had software to monitor vehicle, no Dyno.
No, I did it on my Benz. 3.5l v6, no boost.
I saw about 8HP increase (from 310 to 318) and my fuel economy went up by about 1.2mpg city, to 22.
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I’d do it just for the intake sounds. Lol
But colder air should expand more when it explodes, which I’d think would give you a bigger bang for the amount of air and fuel in the cylinder. In my mind it makes sense to get more power and efficiency from cold air, but in practice it’s probably negligible.
Yes, but intake temperatures at the ingestion point make very little difference in the grand scheme of things, since it has a set path that warms the air up pretty consistently. As soon as you hit the throttle body, the difference in temperature would be about 5c at most, assuming it’s a cold day.
That temperature delta is really not beneficial for non-boosted applications. If you want to cool your intake charge, the best solution is a water-meth injection system. It also has the benefit of cleaning your cylinders.
Do you have any sauce for that nugget of knowledge?
This was covered on EE, and I followed it to it’s logical conclusion.
This one was personal findings, when a friend got curious, so we did some dyno tests, with his E30.
I can try to pull out the notes, but this was like 2-3 years ago, so I can’t guarantee anything on it.
That’s true. That’s another reason I’m thinking about buying the AEM soon. The current filter is clean. I wanna see if I can personally feel a difference between a fancy filter and a clean paper filter. Plus it’s not expensive, and it’s reusable.
That what the boxes are for, to block air from inside the engine bay. The stock intake is basically just a pipe that takes air in from outside the engine bay, with a big filter in-between. The Roush intake for my truck basically just mounts to the bottom half of the stock intake box, but it also lets air in from the front. So theoretically it should be pulling air in from the normal inlet like the stock intake, plus the grill, and there’s a box with a gasket on top to prevent air from getting in from the engine compartment.
That’s what I’m considering as well haha. And if the performance gains are true, even if it’s just a little bit, then it’s more than just a sound mod. In that case it might be worth doing. But it’s subjective, and expensive.
From what I understood (all theory) any extra cooling is going to help with ignition timing as well as the charge density, at least on modern vehicles. Not sure how the computer works with an e30 though. I know thats one of the contributing factors to why some cars can gain power on stock tune while others dont or even lose power.
You likely know much more about this than I do from the work you’ve done on your miata.
So, this is very accurate. My argument is not that there’s zero improvement. My argument is that the improvement is so slim that it’s not worth the cost.
So, dropping a CAI into the car, is beneficial if you’re tuning, but the biggest benefit is from a more efficient filter. Allowing more air through, while still blocking contaminants. Density is a function of temperature and pressure. It’s easier to fix pressure than temperature.
I’ve learned a ton about how the atkinson cycle works in the last year, but I don’t pretend to be an expert.
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I was certainly not trying to challenge you as if you were. Excuse me if it seemed that way. I just wanted to know where you got your figures from so I could maybe learn more from that.
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It’s a no brainer for me
I’ve run k&n on every vehicle I’ve had for 18 years.
Some have had performance gains
Over the long term it has been cheaper in terms of filter replacements than oem.
I have run with MAF, no MAF, never had an issue. If you’re getting oil in your MAF you are doing the filter oil WAY over the top.
So uh, RTFM and don’t do that.
That said. The car may need a tune to realise gains depending on what it is.
And the oem paper filters aren’t total garbage.
If an oem could get a few free horsepower with a filter that’s a heap of R&D saved for a better horsepower figure.
I suspect most of the gain people see is going from a clogged old oem filter to a brand new aftermarket one to be honest.
And/or a dyno operator playing with correction factors or intake temp sensor placement. Either intentionally to justify the filter he sold you, or accidentally due to switching from an OEM airbox to something else. Which may have also affected intake tract length which may actually have more impact than the actual filter.
If you are replacing or modifying an air box, the OEM stuff is designed to minimise intake noise, and a whole heap of other stuff not related to power generation.
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I know that wheel, 98 to 2002 CVPI steel rim and or full size spare.
yes, it is. but needs brake hoses all the waya round.
