Asked my dad about putting a turbo on the new Impreza engines, he said that on the 10.5:1 engines like mine he would not recommend more than ~7 PSI of boost for a daily driver, and that’s with a very good tune. For a 12.5:1 engine like the newer models he said that ~5 PSI would be the upper limit until more blow engines testing has been done.
I’m not sure it would be worth it at such low boost. If you want the extra horsepower I think a Forester might be a better idea, more horsepower without needing premium gas or potential reliability issues with a bolt on turbo. Or a Legacy/Outback with the 3.6L engine if you want to splurge.
And speaking of Foresters, oh boy is that 2018 nice. Rides real smooth, has more get up and go than my current car, and seems to have good fit and finish. The 6-speed transmission is amusing because it’s literally the same gearing as my 5-speed, it just has an extra gear on the end.
In a few years when they start hitting the used market I may have to look into one.
If that’s true, subaru really needs to learn how to build engines. That sounds really weak. I’ve got a friend doing 19psi on a stock 1.6 miata, with a backyard tune. That’s 11:1 ratio.
15PSI is typically about double power, so at 5PSI, you could get 25-35%, depending on the tune. At that price though, you’re probably better off with building the block, grabbing a 10:1 head gasket and going for 25psi.
Just like the Borg Warner T5 vs T56. I think it’s .74 and .50 on the last two gears. Really gets those revs down. The T56 is good for up to 550lb/ft, depending on configuration.
He was saying 7/5 PSI partially because it’s not a super common upgrade so there’s not as much info about it, partially because more PSI is going to need upgraded injectors, head gaskets, intake, exhaust, possibly bigger turbo, etc. Says if you do all that then the engine could probably do 20 PSI just fine (the cousin FA20 engine in the WRX can hit 22.5 PSI with the factory tune). A lot of work and money when compared to just getting a WRX or Forester XT instead. A base model Forester already has 30 HP more than an Impreza/Crosstrek.
The engine is actually relatively strong, it’s just built from the factory to be exactly what Subaru wanted it to be, moderate power, reliable, and decent gas mileage.
I watch him, Taylor Ray, and Jimmy Oakes on the daily i learned about 80% of what i know from drift vloggers the amount of information you pick up from those channels over time is insane.
I mostly follow just TJHunt, MCM and professional drifters. Other channels come off as targeting teenagers or other people I don’t relate to. Only reaon why I follow TJ is due to interest in some of his builds, but even they are far too immature in my opinion. idk, so many channels come off as fake or forced.
The one channel I do watch every video of is ThatDudeInBlue. I don’t care for American cars but he makes some very well balanced reviews of cars from all corners of the world.
I have the feeling that my Seat is a littlebit down on power.
I mean its 1.6 with 102HP at 1129Kg.
But if i put the hammer down it does accelerate but i just miss umpf.
Maybe its a clutch related issue, but it doesnt really slip.
But i noticed that its pretty difficult to do a burn out…
fuell economy also isnt that great, 1L / 11Km is about it…
You know, I have been having a similar issue with my Suzuki. 1L, 68HP in a 670KG car, so similar if not slightly better power to weight as your Seat but the kick has gone.
Tested the clutch for issues last week and it grabs, though small slip due to buildup once in a while, still within tolerances. I just get this weird hiccup once or twice every drive. Where in second or third gear, the RPM’s stall for half a second, small jolt as the car stops accelerating and then it jolts back.
I also noticed the engine ticking today, same ticking that happened for a few months before my partners car cracked it’s head.
The thing that everyone says with this car is it’s the driveline that’s causing what I’m experiencing. Where the gearbox attaches to what you could call the driveshaft, there is a spring mechanism to smooth out the lumpy 3 cylinder. with the engine firing only one or two cylinders every revolution, it makes for a rough power curve, especially at low RPM. But I still don’t feel like that’s the cause. Why would the engine stall in acceleration at roughly 4,000 RPM? unless the car has variable valve timing (Don’t think it does) and there is a fault with either the computer or the actual transition, IDK what is the cause.
It’s due for a service early next year so I could mention it. Or I could trade up to a Mazda 3 since I have recently accepted a good job. Still, would be a shame to lose the 63MPG, and I would rather not drop 30 grand on a new Honda Fit/Jazz RS to get the performance and the MPG.
Yeah well i’m not sure what the issue could be.
In my case the engine doesnt make weird noises and at standstill it does run smoothly,
without any hiks, you can barely hear it running.
The only thing is that i have been driven on low oil level, i have filled about 2 liter of Kroon oil 10W 40 semi synthetic in it.
But that didnt really change much, wenn i switch the Airco on, its a significant noticeable hit on performance.
It feels like driving a diesel with turbo lag wenn airco is switched on haha.
I do have to say that the engine is an AKL engine which means its a 1.6 8V.
But it has some kind of air intake system called SR (Saug Rohr) which seems to,
spread the power more even over a wider range of rpm.
Normaly 8Valve engines naturally are notorious for being pretty peppy at lower rpm’s,
since they have most of the torq sitting there, and not soo much in the higher rpm range.
But the SR air intake system seems to effect this bahaviour.
So i’m sure if this is just naturally with my said engine and intake system.
A friend of mine made slap stickers that were a bit of a ripoff of his Hunt & Co stickers… Changed the H to a C. He got… upset. Went on a 25 minute snapchat rant about it. Slapped us with a cease and desist letter. It’s nice to live in the same city as him.
Anyways…
What’s your mileage?
Take the car on the freeway (or somewhere 50mph +) put the car in 5th (or 6th), rev it out to like 3/4 of redline, hold the revs there, (so like 1/8 throttle) and dump the clutch. Watch how fast the revs go down. That’s how you can tell if you need a clutch…
How long? You might want to do a compression test.
