Okay I have a Sapphire Dual-X 4GB R9 270x and I want to water cool it whether its with doing it closed or open loop. I thought it'd be easier doing it closed loop as there's less chance of errors however I just want to know if the G10 would even fit because it says only reference design cards. If it wouldn't fit, is there anything I could do to do open loop water cooling? If I did this, what parts would I need including watercooling the CPU I have.
As long as the screw spacing and die height are correct, I don't see why you couldn't at least cool the core. I'd take measurements of the card and compare it to reference, if I were you. If the layout isn't near reference, you may have difficulty lining up the fan to cool VRMs and memory. But take what I say with a grain of salt, because I don't have any experience with this stuff.
Be very carful with the G10 , unless you really need it , don't get it .
It's a big risk , and very expensive to buy .
I personally had a bad experience with them ( they sent me 2 broken ones ( bent screws ) with fucked one of my gpu's ) .
A good alternative might be the cheaper GPU COOL ( http://www.overclock.net/t/1501480/gpu-cool-the-artisan-store-package-deal-inside )
Have not tried that yet .
No, its not. Just because you tried to force install something with bent screws doesnt make it a big risk. You should always inspect all hardware for defects first before trying use it.
Just like they said. I have personally installed the g 10 on a non refereance card. Usually heatsinks are required. Since the fan isn't actaully cooling the vrms. Die thickness and height is the big thing. You can sometimes google up comparisions of the gpu's pcb . I have some pics floating around on the site somewhere. It knocked 30 degrees off the load temps and improved the overclocking on a voltage locked card. Lowered overall case temps since i could mount the aio as an exhaust. For a little less than 100 dollars ( if your buying everything new: bracket, heatsinks,aio.) you can make a world of difference.
Well , your vrm's cook if you don't have heatsinks on them , and it is a risk , tighten it too mutch and you crack the core .
I did not force install , but yeah depends on your luck .
https://imgur.com/a/FDYgT#4 My cooler wasnt cooling my vrms anyway. I did heatsink the vrms just to be on the safe side. Just so i could overclock it little harder. Which i dont have a pic for the heatssinks cause it's in my case. I am too lazy to pull it out and take a pic.
I though it would run hotter than that , my r9 290 cooks even with vrm heatsinks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KvNoiqVTkxo Here is alittle vid on the 290 and the g10. Vrm heatsinks have a cooling rating. Not all are created equal so getting the right heatsinks for the job is important.http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/fans-thermal-management/thermal-heat-sinks/1179752 In the case of a 290, i would be tempted to use the higher cooling capacity copper heatsinks.
Stabbing in the dark i would say your not using the right heatsinks for the job. Dont forget the power phases.
The point is , he can use it without cooking his vrm's .
I was using gelid's vrm cooling kit , but my room hits 36°c and since I have a pretty isolated case with a stock intel cooler , my vrm's were not happy mining / rendering.
But yes , I should have gotten copper instead of aluminium , like the gelid ones.
Well has anyone got measurements for the reference ??? I can measure my card later however don't know where to go to find measurements for the reference card.
So the copper ones are definitely worth getting over the aluminium ones? because im about to get a kracken g10 for my 780 soon and i was wondering if i could get away with aluminium heatsinks for my vram
but the 780 kicks less vrm heat than the r9 290
Your never going to go wrong running your gear as cool as possible. If you can afford it ...........do it.