I’ve seen mixed feedback, to the Yamaha car engines- but yes, that V8 to-date is DUMM TIDY
While I’d lean heavily, to the “No replacement for displacement” mantra [I have an H6 Subbie]
That bonnet doesn’t seem to be offering much real estate, once you address the secondary parts
… Fuccin’ SEND ITT, with a Motorcycle i4!? Brat would be light enough, to not be a struggle fit
Looks rough enough to make it a rallyX car without shame.
Congrats you win the game. So you going to make it orange?
selectively quoting to say… Rotary with some spinny bois and two step!
Hahah sorry that pretty cool, hope you get somewhere with it. Maybe a cheap refurbished Porsche or other Subaru boxer engine to keep the spirit and make that tin can fly.
Didn’t think about Porsche, thinking it’d be too old of an engine [912s H4, or 944s dumm 3.0L i4]
But yes, Porsche does have blown H4 in lineup, with them newer Caymans
So I’ve been cleaning her up, and I just found out that she’s no spring chicken.
Cleaning… progress?
This thing was gross.
Still have to get the carpet under the center console out, since it stunk and looked so gross I didn’t want to get in to remove the center console. It already smells better, but it’s still not great.
Also I went around tapping and looking all over for bad rust, and I really didn’t find much. There were 2 spots that had rusted through.
Front lower corner of the right rear wheelwell.
Same spot but inside
And under the driver door
Driver footwell. I was worried this was going to be bad due to the broken out windshild, but it all sounds like good metal. Looks kinda bad, but it really isn’t.
No other rust worth mentioning.
General under side shots
There wasn’t an air filter in it.
I got the air box kinda pulled back to get a closer look at the carb, and I really don’t like what I’m seeing. Looks really small, and there’s still way to many bloody vacuum lines.
Alright, I gave her jab with the old screw driver, and she came alive… after much cranking and carb cleaner.
Odysee video link: $500 Subaru BRAT Endless Cranking
BTW this thing has a drain plug on the fuel tank. That was really nice to get the what 4 or 5 gallons of very old fuel out, but it makes it a bit easy to steal my fuel (don’t get any funny ideas).
Dont you just love the smell of oxidized fuel?..
That thing is solid! Holy sheit.
Subaru brat’s are silly money here.
A rusty one with visible holes is asking price 3500,- euro…
It really amazes me what you guys in 'Murica can do with old cars! It looks like a cool project!
I don’t mind the smell of fresh fuel, but yeah, this old fuel is sooo bad. The Fiat had a full tank of this stuff (filled up 2, 5 gallon buckets).
Honestly, same. I was looking at Brats for around 3k, so when this popped up I jumped on it.
It was up for 40 minutes and I was 2nd in line. I said I have cash, and will pay asking in the first message.
I was talking to him about it, and he didn’t really know how crazy the market has gotten. He told me he was shocked to see how many responses he got.
I really do take this for granted. When someone mentions this I have to take a step back and realize how fortune I am to be able to do this stuff.
Well shoot, I got her to run on her own (no starter fluid), and the lifter tick even went away, but she got hot and puked all over the place. I’m thinking she needs a head gasket, or maybe a thermostat.
Odysee video link: Brat Already Down [Subaru BRAT]
Do the glove test…
Put a rubber glove or even condom over the radiator fill. Make sure the overflow is blocked as well. Fire up the car. If the glove moves then there is air being pushed into the radiator system from either head gasket or crack somewhere.
Thanks for the tip.
I did that, and it was pulsing, and it even had vacuum at one point. Not sure what that means, but I think I’ll go ahead and replace the thermostat to see what happens.
@TeckMonster , you could probably get one of them cheap testers, to verify if exhaust is mixing
That’s cool. I think I’m going to pick up a thermostat tomorrow and if that doesn’t fix it, then I’ll get me one of those testers.
Thanks!
Check the old thermostat to make sure its closed properly. Throw the thermostat into some boiling water and see if it opens. If it does then its good.
I’m not sure about the glove test. I’ll check with someone more knowledgeable and get back to you.
These are answers I got;
“I would say the pulsing was the equivalent of the coolant raising and falling slightly in the radiator just prior to the thermostat opening. The suction on the system is when the thermostat actually opened.”
And
"Yes +1 ^^^^
Not a blown head gasket or cracked head
Glove test should be done on cranking engine not running engine
You can see a well defined pulse, and you can then remove 1 spark plug at a time, repeat the test, and can then find out which cylinder, or cylinders are leaking
If you want to test running engine just fill rad to top, leave cap off, and start cold engine, if water/coolant keeps overflowing the rad then there is a blown head gasket or cracked head
No glove needed
The pulse in the video is the water pump, and then the suction was most likely air that was purged because of a small coolant leak."
Hmm, I talked with my father about it as well, and we thought, maybe the water pump is trying to move coolant, but due to the low coolant, and possibly stuck thermostat, it might only be able to pump once enough water got around back through the system (possibly stuck thermostat) and back to the pump, which made since to us for the pulse as well.
That still leaves me wondering the thermostat is bad, but I think it’s sounding good for the engine, so I’m not really sure what else it could be… maybe a water pump? IDK, I’ll start with the Thermostat and see where that takes me.
Well as above the easy check for that is to take the current one out and see if it is working when put in boiling water.
Free and could solve the mystery with out a second round.
