I'm running a 5960x with 128 GB of ram, and I'm going to be upgrading to two 1080 tis once the custom cards come out. Currently overclocked I pull about 300 to 450 watts. I'm guessing that those GPUs could easily add 400 to 600 more watts to my power draw. My power supply can support up to 1500 watts. (I was initially going to put two 980 tis in it)
The question is can a standard socket take this? I need a 20 amp socket and breaker right, without any monitors plugged in? (currently, I run 3 to 4 monitors, that will eventually all be upgraded to 4k) So, monitors and computer on a different fuse. Are there any surge protector type devices that can let a socket and fuse support ampage above the max?
Under a gaming load test the 1080ti pulls 248.6 watts so we are looking at 500 watts. So if your system is pulling 450 max now and you add 500 we are now sitting at 950. 4 24" LED Monitors are around 160 watts so now we are at 1110 watts. Typical 120v 15a socket can handle 1400 watts without hitting its peak. So in my book you are going to be alright. Just don't brew your coffee on that same circuit. Edit: 120v 15a socket can handle 1800 watts max so 1400 gives you the headroom and your system is staying well below that so we still good.
I think a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply with Surge Protection and Battery Pack) does that, but I am sure someone will correct me.
I highly recommend getting one either way. UPS devices are rated in VA, not Watts which is different and confusing. This 1500VA UPS translates to 865W, read the fine print before you buy. A UPS or 2 to handle all of your needs may be expensive.
My current UPS can only handle my PC (390W) and I plan to get a better 2nd one, then I will use the old one to protect my screen and peripherals.
Am I allowed to laugh at the American electricity standards? I was using 2kW electric heater, my 300-400W system, 22" monitor, surround sound, etc etc all from a single socket for multiple years without any issues what so freaking ever... But I live in Bulgaria, which is eastern Europe, which is post - communist country, which at the time build things solidly... It's kinda funny you are worried about 1000W, when I hit 3000 and I had room to spare...
The difference about North American household power is it's run at ~120Volts and EU is ~240Volts. That's why you see the difference in wattage to run things. 25v x 4amps = 100watts 50v x 2amps = 100watts The common between the two uses posted above is the max amperage allowed @ ~15-16 amps. The other difference is the fuse is at the incoming power box in US, and at the end of tool cord in EU.
Your system will not be drawing 1000 watts and a standard american outlet can handle far more than 1000 watts. Your system is using 300 to 450 watts right now including your current graphics card. An overclocked 5960x sans graphics card is probably drawing 200-250 watts maximum. Add in those two 1080 Ti's and estimate both will draw in the 210-230 watt range when gaming. Yes you can get these cards to use close to 300 watts when overclocked, BUT, that is PEAK power usage when overclocked AND in non-gaming loads, such as programs like furmark that stress the cards for maximum power usage. I would estimate an overclocked 5960x and dual 1080 Ti system to use in the 650-750 watt range at a maximum when gaming. You might be able to creep towards 800 if you were utilizing programs that max both the cpu and gpus at the same time, but that is not going to happen in really any game.
A typical american socket is either 15 or 20 amps at 120v. So on the low end your talking roughly ~1800 watts, and high end ~2400 watts. Frankly your system isn't ever going to itself use half the power available at the socket. Monitors don't draw crap tons of power either, 25 to 30 watts maximum is all I would expect from even the biggest 4k monitor you'd be able to get your hands on.
Here is what I use. I use it in conjunction with an XFinity UPS. With 9250 Joules you really can't go wrong and it comes with brackets if you want to put it in a server rack. The price is a fraction of what you would normally pay for enterprise equipment and it has proven itself to me at least a dozen times already. The area where I live is notorious for power spikes. (Better to be safe than sorry.) Stuff happens.
I think I'll probably be safe. I'm only asking since I've heard about high end GPUs flipping breakers in the past.
Doesn't the max wattage depend on the voltage needed. For instance doesn't pulling a lot from the 12 volt line get closer to the ampage limit on the wall? Ideally, eventually I'll have 4 4k monitors between 27" to 34" with good response times and 100 to 140hz. (34" for the main display)
I also have one of those sites to stand motorized desks. Should probably think about plugging that into another breaker, along with the TV and consoles.
I know gaming won't pull enough to be a worry. I'm more worried about stress testing the entire system for stability, and maybe some workloads with something like Google Dreams.
For grow lights which draw on full load you generally would want to 1k lights onto separate circuits (I'm pretty sure for obvious reasons it's not something you generally want to test while you sleep)
But my understanding is that even at 1500 you wont flip the breaker in a modern home.
Unless it's an old home no GPU is flipping breakers. Not even a few of them. They had a lot more on that circuit than that. The GPU was probably just pushing them over the edge
With a decent PSU you should be fine but a UPS isn't a bad idea. It will further even out the load pulled from the wall and secure your system from bad things.
You will probably be fine. All the component power quotes are maximum case so you'd have to be fully using everything in the system to see those numbers. For desktop use that's unlikely to ever be the case.
If you're really concerned maybe get an electrician to take a look. Assuming the cabling and outlet can handle the extra current, it might be a simple case of adding a higher capacity fuse at the breaker. That would be a hell of a lot more cost effective than buying a good quality UPS.
Yes. Your vacuum cleaner on max draws more than that configuration would, even on full load.
It would allow him to draw more current before the fuse breaks, but that's completely different from what a UPS does so the cost/effectiveness comparison is questionable. As far as I know a UPS would only protect him against surges and deliver a "smoother" current for the PSU. And if all of the devices on the outlet group for that breaker fuse (cumulatively) draw more current than the fuse is rated for, it's going to pop.
A UPS wouldn't enable him to draw more power than what the breaker fuse allows. Not to mention that the UPS (and the UPS fuse) should always be rated at "less than" what the fuse at the breaker can handle... (edit: ...which means that the in-build UPS fuse would pop long before the circuit breaker one does). Besides, adding a higher capacity fuse would make him more susceptible to damage from power surges in the grid (or from a lightning strike).
Oh. If you had a house designed to have certain rooms with in window units, they should have a dedicated circuit. As in the one socket is dedicated and has nothing else on the circuit and usually a beefier breaker. Thats what I have in my office. I have half the setup on one circuit and half on another so that I can draw as much as I want from each and not have to worry.