You might have better luck with the marking term “portable power station”
The Anker SOLIX C1000 might work with your setup without being outrageously expensive, at least. Not 100% sure how the 24/7 use scenario works out with these.
Also, the wear items in these are the batteries. So buying used devices and replacing batteries may be an option. Get a Dual Conversion On-Line variant as well.
Most of the good UPS have a overload capacity time limits; something like > 110% & ≤ 130% for 5 min; > 130% & ≤140% for 30 sec; >140% for 1.5 sec is pretty typical. So you don’t necessarily need to get an UPS for your peak power usage (although you’d probably want to).
nice! I just finished a loop that is dissipating ~800watts continuous CPU heat load and was curious what you had. I went with dual 360mm rads and I think that was slightly less than ideal.
I would definitely not go with these portable battery power stations for an UPS, there transfer times are just not good enough to reliably work on modern computers and they aren’t made to the same standards as an UPS is in terms of reliability. That being said there are some UPS manufactures that started putting in LFP batteries into their units.
Reasonable for 2KW of protection. It will plug into a standard 120V outlet using a 20A to 15A adapter (cheap on amazon). The reason I like this UPS, is that it will accept power from a generator or a large inverter whereas most UPS’ will not. Depending on power draw, this gives you time to fire-up a generator and plug the UPS into it for long-term power outages (becoming more common in California). Just make SURE your generator or inverter has a ground connection common to the house. UPS’ typically only power selected equipment, but that equipment may plug into other equipment not powered by the UPS, but which remains plugged into the house.
Don’t do that. OP’s system already maxes out a standard 15 amp 110v circuit and the UPS will add some additional overhead. If the UPS needs to recharge while his system is running full tilt (self-test or power blip) he will very likely trip the breaker.
id like to also note. that an electrician may be able to increase the breaker size from 15 to 20 amp assuming the wiring in the wall is the correct gauge to support it, if all that is required is to increase the breaker size. it should not cost too much. and swapping a plug to the 20amp rated plug is not overly complicated either.