Not a bad price per see, same as my JVC.
I’m definitely a basshead guy, that JVC will be pretty much the perfect headphone for the stuff i hear, but i also like to keep a v-shaped can around.
I’ve tried several analytical headphones such as the Sony MDR-7506 and the Sennheiser HD-280 and no, i just don’t like them, too weak…
Not a bad price per see, same as my JVC.
mmm, are those some nice bottleheads?
Nope. All custom stuff a friend of mine built.
Although I know the bottlehead people personally and I am trying to figure out a custom phono/tape preamp combo with them. So soon enough I should have some quasi bottlehead stuff : P
Thanks, I’ve been looking for something like this!
I was at guitar center the other day and noticied they had some fostex T40rp MK3s on clearance for 55 bucks (normally 160 bucks).
These are not the same as the t50rps and have an ever so slightly worse driver, but for the price of the t50rps, you can buy this headphone and mod them to sound insanely good and still have money left over.
T40RP MK3 should be the same driver. The only difference is that the T40RP MK3 has the vent closed. This leads to reduced bass.
Expect to pay more for replacement pads as the stock pancake pads leave a bit to be desired. I had the T50RP MK3 at one point and paid $109 for it. $55 for any Tx0RP MK3 is a great price, but imo it needs a bit of work to sound great. My T50RP MK3 stock sounded pretty sterile to my ears so I sold it off despite wanting to have a planar in my collection.
I have the M1060C now though so that solves my issue. But it’s also $$$ so not really comparable. Just thought I’d note.
edit: also the stock cables that come with the Tx0RP MK3 are pretty terrible. Get a replacement one. It’s a locking right angle so be mindful of that.
I have taken the t50s and t40s apart. The 40s have a different housing (and by housing I mean the actual driver housing not the cups).
You can actually do a very quick mod to turn the t40s into vented headphones just like the t50s and they dont sound quite the same.
Maybe this is different with the Mk3s since they are all priced the same, but with the mk2s there were definitely a few more differences.
Just finished putting together a DIY linear tonearm : D
That is super cool man!
And I started tweaking it right after positing that video. I have already made massive massive improvements. Most of the improvements came from getting the wires under control. The thing tracks perfectly now
The sound quality is just stupid. This thing is already on par with a decent pro-ject or rega TT. I genuinely never expected this thing to work let alone sound this good.
Once I have made the plinth and truly finish the arm, this thing is gonna be a killer TT.
Due to having ears that aren’t big but stick out quite a bit, headphones usually Cause a lot of pain after half an hour of use. So my daily drivers are some Swan M50w desktop speakers. At the time they were great. After the first 100 hours if burn in, they became the best speakers I have listened to. Unfortunately whether it’s the environment I’m in now or just wear on the drivers, after the last 2 years or so, they became very warm, lacking in a lot of treble. Not great for taking either since relying on sounds to pick up subtle noises had become impossible. Not to mention genres that sounds great on them have dropped significantly.
My portable drivers on the other hand are very bright. sennheiser cx215’s. Amazing frequency response but oh so bright. Definitely need something a lot more neutral. Though they did well for gaming where I need to hear subtle sounds.
Which leads me to what I ordered last week. Still waiting on shipping. I love when Amazon 5-10 day shipping takes 20+ days but I have ordered HifiMan he-400i plana magnetic headphones. From what I could see, they do have some qa issues as of November last year, hoping that’s fixed with my pair but either way, slightly bright headphones. Though very neutral with an amp along with a little gain on the sub base and dropping the gain to smooth out a treble spike. Otherwise amazing value for money and one of the fastest responding drivers on the market. Beating hd650’s just, of which were my second choice.
Looking forward to breaking these bad boys in
I second this, especially if you’re going to buy an equalizer. Save that money for upgrading your equipment. Equalization is to compensate for anything lacking in your sound. Car audio really is the worst acoustic environment people listen to music in. It’s not built for that. Just upgrade your stereo, single best thing anyone can do for car audio.
The stereo is part of the HMI that handles vehicle settings, climate control and all kinds of stuff.
Modern vehicles don’t have radios like they used to.
Came back home yesterday, exhausted from work with the sole purpose of hearing some loud music on my main system.
Today i noticed i may have overdone it, all of the light fixtures on the room became loose from the bass hits…
How much watts rms peak does your setup put out?
95wrms on the towers and 300wrms on the 12inch sub, but the room only measures 15m²
I have a question about Android audio.
I own a HTC One M8 harmon/kardon edition. It used to sound awesome. The only difference to the regular M8 is h/k did some nice EQ tweaks that really worked and you get a $100 set of h/k headphones.
When I rooted my phone (Lineage), I lost all of the harmon/kardon tweaks. It sounds like crap now. The other Andriod ROMs’ sounded just as bad. They have artificial Bass Boost and the midrange mix sounds muddy. I have tried to fix it with the EQ, but I can’t get that rich clear h/k sound back.
Is there a “Good Hi-Fi” android audio player with more than a 5 band EQ?
I tried a few, but settled on Pi Music Player.
6.5" fronts and 6" rears JL Audio coax + 1" tweeters.
10" Sony sub.
4x 75W Sony amp + 100W sub amp.
Logitech G51 + Micca MB42X stereo pair (as suggested by Tek Syndicate).
Sound Blaster Z.
My systems are not too loud, but they are clean.
USB Audio Player PRO is pretty popular, but it’s a paid app and a bit of a pricey one at that. Says 10 band EQ though.
Could have been some sort of dynamic range compression rather than just EQ stuff, I know that’s how the old Creative X-Fi crystalizer made things sound ‘better’.