I don't know much about car audio so bear with me here please.
So I'm driving two of these subs http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_16097_MEMPHIS-15-PR10D4V2-Power-Reference-10-inch-DVC-4-ohm-Subwoofer.html
My old amp burnt up a few months ago after 2 years of use, I don't even know what it was (was free). All I know is that it was a 4 channel and I want to get another 4 channel so I don't have to change my setup. I want to push my subs fairly hard. But I have no idea about what the specs and all that mean when it comes to car audio. I'm pretty knowledgeable with technology but I feel there is a lot of BS out there in the car audio world. I'd prefer not spending over $150, if I can get a good 1000w or so amp without even spending that much it would be great.
So would anyone be willing to suggest a few amps for me?
if you cant push at least 15's you should go home.
I can't fit anything bigger without taking the seats out of my truck. I also don't have $$$$$ to blow on speakers. I'm 17.
Try not to be a prick.
are you only driving a subwoofer on your amp?
if you only drive a subwoofer over the amp, then i would recommend to grab a mono block. amp. mono blocks are way better theb multi channel amps wenn it comes to subwoofer only setups. Because you dont have to bridge them.
All of my speakers + my subs are on the amp. I have 4 RCAs from my head unit -> amp -> speakers/subs
ah, ya. google more info. You can get some amazing results if you do your homework. Truck is not so easy considering the space.
allright, so you need a 4 channel amp.
if you are a bit tight on cash, then i would recommend to look at a JBL amp they are decent for the money. other good brands are Hifonics and Rockford
Can you explain me how your current setup is connected? you bridge A channel of the amp for your sub and the other channel you used for your speakers? then setted the frequancy filters on the right settings etc etc?
Can you explain RMS and what it means to output different wattages at different Ohms? In a simple format.
RMS is basicly contenius power, so its the amount of power that the amp can give to the speakers over a longer period of time.
Ohm is resistand, this is directly related to power. how lower the Ohms, how higher the power delivery. for example, if you have a 4ohm amp with 2 speaker outputs, and you want to drive only a subwoofer on them, then you can bridge those 2 outputs to a single output for more power, if you bridge two 4 ohm outputs, you are getting a 2ohm output which can deliver a higher wattage.
Thats why i was talking about a mono block for the subwoofer only. Because monoblocks are only single output, and have 2 ohms or 4ohm. which can deliver much higher wattage to a sub.
I think that i would personaly gonne work with 2 amps, 1 monoblock just for the sub, and 1 multichannel for your speakers.
I would suggest to take a look at JBL or Hifonics.
I´m from the Netherlands so i personaly dont know any reliable online shop in the US or what so ever unfortunatly.
lol, Not without writing a book. Someone has already done it before me. I personally perfer pa grade myself. It takes more understanding of the science behind it, tho.See ?There is a big difference in car audio grade rms an then what i consider true rms. World of difference. Just like home audio verse studio grade. There is no short and fast solutions. You can do alot with a 100 watts if you do the research. Thats point i am trying make. Personally i love 8 ohms but.......................
oh yeah definitely, in my dads car i have a decent pioneer headunit with 4V sub outputs, but i just run the speakers on the headunit, and use a single 240W RMS JBL amp for driving a JBL 250W rms 1000W peak sub. And it sounds great. The sub does top out a bit above the speakers somethimes if i listen to very deeply base music, but its still great.
I also like PA stuf, i have a PA amp my self in my bedroom atm lol. But its a cheap 2x800W RMS DAP so nothing realy special lol.
I will eventually get into but my vehicle just isn't going to allow a proper set up and still be practical. At the end of this year when I graduate I'm getting an STI and plan to do a high-end setup. I just need my bass back without having to spend more money on changing the rest of my system.
Soo... I'm still kind of confused. So the higher the resistance the more power the subs need? So if I have 4ohm subs I would be better off with a 4ohm amp?
Thats the problem. I don't want to bother going crazy in a truck since I'll never get a properly sized and ported box that will fit under my back seats. I just want a cheap solution that will get me by for the next several months.
im here to help dont listen to that other poster hes trolling you. The main thing when buying a car amp it to check the fuse amperage. This will tell you the true wattage capability. Most car amps especially cheaper ones inflate the actual watt output to make it more appealing. A 4 channel amp at a 1000w for $150 is not really possible your going to be in the1/2 channel amp market at that price unless you want to buy something that will blow up in a year or less. There is also no good amps at this price that are 4 channel. I would recommend getting a mono amp for subwoofer first then add a front speaker 2 channel amp later when you have another $150. dont worry about rear speakers you dont need them just power fronts and a subwoofer. If you have 2 speakers sell one to a friend for $50 to get money to buy a single enclosure.
here is my reccomendation
250w @ 4 ohms JL Audio Monoblock Amp
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_32654_JL_Audio_JX5001D.aspx
after you sell speaker buy one of these enclosures one is ported if you want sealed choose second link
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-e-10sp-10-single-vented-box-speaker-cabinet--260-628
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-tr10s-10-single-sealed-truck-box-speaker-cabinet--260-642
Honestly that the first trolling ive seen on this forum and thanks for your help as well.
You will be very thankful in the long run to go with my suggestion.
if you get more money grab this 2 channel for the front
https://www.woofersetc.com/p-5582-a2150-jl-audio-2-ch-full-range-amplifier.aspx
also make sure your using the proper sized wiring to the battery and a capacitor so you dont fry your car parts and are making sure your amp is getting stable voltages.
you have to use 8 gauge wire up to 14 feet for power and i would use same for ground as well the amp is rated for 60 amps its really about 44 but its fused for 60 amps.
capacitor
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_20002_Lanzar_LQ16CAP.aspx
and make sure your inline fuse is rated for 60 amps no less
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_142CFHG4/EFX-CFHG4-Fuse-Holder.html?tp=1418
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8OiH3iN1S2Y/p_211FSAGU60/StreetWires-AGU-Type-Glass-Fuses-60-amp.html
this wire is by the foot price
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120PW81/T-Spec-Power-Ground-Cable-8-ga-Pearl.html?tp=578
if you have a 4 ohm sub, i suppose you have a 4ohm single spool sub, then you would basicly be fine with a 4ohm amp yes. the only thing is, if you buy a multi channel amp, then you basicly wanne drive the sub on a diffrent channel then where the normal speakers are.
Your gonna to tune your cab. Best to it now verses later. You can build your own boxes. Design on the intenet? I personally dont consider pc geeks to get good audio info from. But........... its does go hand in hand.
Great that you know some car audio related webshops in the us.☺
I was suggesting JBL or Hifonics, But indeed also JL audio is great, unfortunatly hard to get in the Netherlands. ☺