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Help safely applying liquid metal to my laptop? MSI GS63VR


I’ve always been hesitant with liquid metals.

In recent years, I’ve been using either Prolimatech PK-3, or Grizzly Kryonaut - both of which work great and won out against my previously used Noctua NT-H2 and Arctic MX-4. Noctua just released an updated NT-H2, which may be worth looking into.

As a general rule, I always replace the TIM in any laptop I acquire. The improved thermals generally allow for higher boost states for longer periods, which can be the equivalent performance of spending a couple hundred extra bucks to get that next step up in performance.


My liquid metal has lasted almost 2 years in my laptop, it’s fine.


I think this is the key. What happens if you LM a chip and put a old model stock intel cooler on it ? Not a hell of a lot more.

Laptops have limited cooling. If you use good quality thermal paste. The difference in performance vs risk make liquid metal not practical.

There is only X cooling capacity in a laptop. Whereas in a desktop you can go all the way to exotic cooling.


LM is meant to remove the bottleneck in the system which is TIM. It doesnt matter if you have a stock intel cooler or a custom loop. The name of the game is ΔT. The higher the better for the cooler. So you can either make the room cooler, or you can make the cooling solution hotter. Its the same idea behind lapping but easier to pull off correctly.


There is absolutely no doubt that LM provides better transfer on a poorly finished interface, or that LM helps even with a properly finished interface.

This thread is asking for help to “Safely apply liquid metal”, and considering the number of people being informed to use LM that have little to no experience with it and do not understand the dangers should be informed that a comparable result can be had with lapping and some quality thermal paste.

  • Lapping is mechanically far safer, the process occurs outside the laptop where there is no risk of getting metal particles inside the laptop causing shorts or damage.
  • It is far cheaper, LM is stupid expensive for what little benefit it gives over lapping.
  • A mistake in the lapping process simply messes up the heatsink which can be re-finished or replaced, a mistake with LM kills the entire laptop.
  • LM remains a liquid and is very hard to inspect under the heatsink without special equipment. An excess application of LM may cause a bead to squeeze out the edge and a jolt of the portable laptop may dislodge the bead landing it somewhere it shouldn’t go.
  • Reports of LM being involved in pitting the top of the CPU die, even if not directly the cause as mentioned above, such damage compromises the CPU in the long term.
  • LM can not be removed without sanding/lapping surfaces, at which point you’re back to square one.

In short, LM is expensive, unsafe, irreversible without sanding & lapping, and can not be guaranteed to stay where it should. If you understand these risks and still wish to use it, sure, go ahead, but you have been warned.


Do labtops even come with IHS anymore? Pretty sure lapping would be useless in that case. Or are you referring to lapping the heatsink?



Btw, someone who aparrently knows what they are doing.


“s-sorry, it’s been awhile.”