Don’t forget to check bios compatibility as the bios it has might not support cpu natively. If it has bios flash button you don’t have to care
Yeah, No sticker on machine, on box, inside box, inside machine. nothing about Windows or Windows Pro, nothing! Will inquire with next email exchange.
Definitely see if you can get something out of them first.
Not sure if anyone pointed out, but Ryzen 2700 does not officially support Windows 11. To install it you have to do hacky things to install media.
It is very unlikely that system integrator would install Windows 11 on unsupported hardware.
My guess is you won’t find Windows 11 OEM sticker anywhere and whoever sold you the system wanted it to look less outdated than it is. Best case scenario they reused Windows 10 key.
IIRC, Ryzen 3000 series and newer, Intel 8th gen and newer are officially supported.
——
Just to clarify, if it gets the job done nothing wrong with 2000 series Ryzen.
Totally fair point. I forgot that 3000 series is the bare minimum for Win 11.
Thanks for that info. I was thinking of getting a Asus ROG STRIX B550-F and use everything off the “New one” and add the two sticks of DDR4 I already hadand see if I could go to Win10. Not liking 11 and maybe then the system would run right and have a bios with a little detail. Or find a MB CPU combo that will use my DDR4? I feel well screw3d!
Did some digging and found this:
Can’t post the link from MS, windows-hardware/design/minimum/supported/windows-11-supported-amd-processors
I have the 2700X and it’s listed.
My mistake, I was almost sure 3000 series and up. However I still think Windows 11 sticker is unlikely, that CPU is from 2018. and Windows 11 is from 2021.
If you just need a cheap, but capable motherboard, I would actually recommend an A520 board here. They are not that good compared to B550 but save you a couple of bucks and seeing as the A520 only has PCIe Gen 3 across the board as does the 2700X, well…
Here is a basic $80 motherboard:
However, my recommendation would be that you ditch the 2700X in favor of a 5700X, too. That is a 100% performance improvement for $140.
Combine with something like the MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk for $120, and you get a grand total of $260 and vastly superior performance.
Is all of this just to fix your windows install?
I second the A520 suggestion if you do need a new motherboard. I would also suggest trying Linux instead of windows.
I think it was this way at first before some major push back, because that limitation is pretty arbitrary and unnecessary.
Keep in mind, too, that the A series of chipsets don’t allow any kind of overclocking (not sure about PBO, perhaps @wertigon can elaborate on that. They’re quite knowledgeable on nuances and technical details).
I second Linux over Windows IF you’re already familiar with it. At least that way you won’t have to switch out the CPU or motherboard, depending on your specific use case.
A520 allows for memory OC (XMP) and PBO but not manual CPU OC.
Regardless, the manual OC is a bit overrated on the 2700X and stupid on the 5700X. If you want to head that way though the B550 Tomahawk is where you should go.
Absolutely agree. The auto overclocking utilities (at least AMD’s PBO, no experience with Intel) usually do a fantastic job.
Yes, that’s what started all of this and me investigating
For some reason, the screen is now working as in when I turned the monitor back on I don’t have a blank screen. Don’t know what made that change. And yes, I got a concern about the install because I’ve got no installation number or Microsoft sticker whatsoever, very suspicious. What I’d like to do is salvage whatever I can out of this machine and if I have to put another motherboard in it and processor fine it would be nice to keep the memory heat sinks so on so forth, I may have already bought a computer. I don’t wanna have to buy a half another one. But now they want me to update the bios. Sent me no link to the bios. I have no idea what this motherboard is. I suggested they send me a flash drive ready to go, but I haven’t heard back. I just hate to throw away 32 MB of brand new memory. I should’ve known better.
Open command prompt as administrator and enter the following:
wmic path softwareLicensingService get OA3xOriginalProductKey
This should give you the windows activation key from your installation. I still suggest giving Linux a try. OpenMandriva and Mint are both great options for new users.
I have tried that with an elevated Command Prompt and when I hit enter, I get: OA3xOriginalProductKey
Every time, every way I have tried to get the system to show the key.
Close I’ve gotten is with Belarc Advisor, it shows a key with 4 parts and then says “key ends with” … and one more set of keys#.
thanks for the help though
The Caps Lock light functions, Hitting WinKey-Ctrl-Shift-B does nothing just a black screen even with mouse and/or keyboard movement after. Sorry for the delay, been working. Thanks.
Sounds just like what mine is doing. Strange though, for two days it was showing desktop when I got home and turned on the monitor, now for a few days it’s back to the black screen. What did you do to stop it from NVMe SSD sleep? Caps lock light works, reset of GPU did nothing, fyi. Thank you though for the tip, didn’t know that one.
If the caps lock light still toggles, it suggests that the computer is still alive when it wakes to a blank screen. It might be possible to work “blind” by unlocking and then launching something that makes a noise from the speakers. That way you can rule out if it’s actually unresponsive even though it’s handling USB keyboard input still, or if it’s “just” a GPU issue.
Does the monitor power itself on (albeit with a black screen) when this happens, or does it stay asleep?
How is the monitor connected? (HDMI or DisplayPort)
Does the display come back if you physically unplug the HDMI/DP cable from the monitor when in this state?