Looking at Amazon UK, the UK layout has alt-gr, while the US and EU versions don't. other retailers may vary, so maybe ask their CS, or gamble, and return if not what is sought?
I was going for the German layout which is slightly different from what I can see, e.g. the enter key is spanned across two rows. On this picture you can see the German layout which seems to have "Alt Gr" written as well:
EDIT:
So you have the US version with "Alt Gr"?
Sorry, I have the UK layout with the alt-gr key
yes, can differentiate.
edit Ctrl and super keys, too.
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So I assume that the European versions have "Alt Gr" and the US version has "Alt". Maybe that's standard on the US-layout. I haven't worked with US-keyboards enough to remember. :D
Thanks, that's perfect!
yeah. most people in the US would have no clue what "Alt Gr" means and, in all probability, would freak out and assume it's a factory defect or something. If they noticed at all, that is.
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It looks more like the EU versions don't have the "alt gr" key.
Also the DE layout with German special characters also has special modifier keys, not the simple ctl/win/alt.
Although if you use want special keys, and they ship to you, something like this might allow for more options of keys, but both alt keys are identicle.
[edit- this may be an older version with only USB2]
The offer you linked seems to be the Mac-version of the keyboard which is a separate version, but also made my "Das Keyboard". Macs traditionally have a different layout, i.e. cmd instead of the Windows-key which is swapped with the Alt-key. They also have no "Alt Gr" in general.
That explains why Apple keyboards have no "Alt Gr", even on the German versions.
Okay, my bad. :-)
I'll wish you luck with your search, but it seems to me that the EU/US versions only have normal alt keys.
Happy hunting, and even if you don't get the alt gr key, I'm sure you'll like whatever you end up with.
I found a offer from a German shop, which from the pictures has a version with "Alt Gr":
I am feeling the same and really looking forward to it :-)
EDIT: @Trooper_ish: I can happily say, that I just ordered mine. Can't wait! :D
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Just want to let everyone from this thread know, that I got my keyboard today and I really enjoy the Cherry MX switch feel (this is my first mechanical keyboard). This is one of my first sentences on it and I will still need some time to get used to it but so far it feels much better than my previous (rubber dome) keyboard that I bought like 15 years ago :D
I hope this one will last just as long (well 5-10 years would already be great). ;-)
And I really have to say that the volume knob and the media keys are super handy. 👍
Maybe I will buy those rubber dampeners but I think that I will push the keys less after I got used to the different "mechanic" which should make them not necessary anymore.
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Unicomp is very bad quality though, it's like nineties China crap, plasticky, smelly, in Germany we would say "DDR quality". It has very little in common with the former IBM Model M's.
The Das Keyboard and other premium keyboards, some of which don't cost that much, e.g. Razer still dumps the 2014 Black Widow Ultimate models for less than 70 bucks, there are still some out there, have butyl keycaps that don't go all shiny and sticky after a few weeks. Quality lies in things like that. Also in the weight, a Unicomp keyboard just has no weight to it, a keyboard with a weighty bottom plate stays in place better, feels better, sounds better.
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congrats, good choice!
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hey, glad you like ut. you may want to type for a "break in" period before commiting to the dampener bands.
@Zoltan i've owned both, never had issues with either. case plastic isn't as thick, sure, but its not like it needs to be sitting on your desk. switches feel the same once broken in. The unicomp model doesn't feel cheap at all unless you're making a direct comparison to the model M
Just in case people are interested. These are referred to as PBT caps by the keyboard community. They don't wear or shine over time from your finger oils and slight friction. ABS is the common cheap plastic used in keyboard key that shines up and wears over time.
This can be added to with the type of printing on the keys.
Pad printed legends, looks like water slip decals such as on dell boards wear off quickly and used on ABS caps. Laser etched keys such as on a Corsair board are translucent ABS with a black coating lasered off for the legends to shine through, the black coating will chip and wear over time. Good ABS caps will be double shot, or the legends moulded in one colour plastic and the rest of the key moulded around it, shot twice in the mould, the legends will never wear off but it will still shine up as it is still both ABS.
PBT uses other methods. Dyesub printing sinks the legends dye in to the key, PBT not suffering from wear like ABS means these will never wear off. You can also get shine through caps in PBT like the laser etched ones mentioned above but instead of lasering off a coating, not possible on PBT, they double shot the cap in clear POM plastic for the legend and the rest of the cap in PBT. Or you can go blank and not have any legends at all.
ABS = Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene
PBT = Polybutylene terephthalate
POM = Polyoxymethylene
Pom is similarly hard wearing as PBT. You can also get straight POM caps, they have a different texture apparently and possibly sound. I have never had any. PBT are my go to. All my board have PBT as I usually buy white blanks and then dye them some colour to match a theme for the board.
Edit: @tkoham break in for cherry switches does nothing for the sound only the smoothness. Edit: but break in for the user to get used to the switches is also a thing, get used to the switches and maybe you won't bottom out as much. Otherwise waiting or not for the oring mod will not change the sound in relation to switch break in. Either you like the clack or you want a little less clack. I have a board with the and a board with out. It is up to you really. The orings are on a lighter switch for me. MX reds and the one with out is MX Clear clone from Gateron with 80g springs swapped in so they are extra hard less bottoming out less clack in general.
Orings will not stop all the clack, only the down stroke. The upstroke will still have the slider hit the inside of the switch housing so you basically take out one of the clacks per press.
Other ways to deal with the sound are putting a mat under the board, this will leave the board lovely and clacky but stop the thump transmitting into you desk, some desks really amplify that hit. Or if you are really into DIY, open the keyboards case and add some foam the the bottom under the PCB. Has a similar effect to the mat but internalised so less case "echo" from the plastic making noise in sympathy with the switches, helps on larger more empty cases or those with thinner plastic cases.
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While you're totally right, I thought he was getting them to change the feel though? if he bought clicky switches I would assume he wanted noise. My main point was to wait and get used to it to see how he likes it before he made the change
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Re-reading it you are probably right. Getting used to the switches helps not bottom out as much. So yes over time he may not need them if his typing adjust to not be so hard.
I personally find Reds way too soft so will always bottom them out just by having heavier hands.
Other info above is relevant any way so I will leave it there.
yeah man, good stuff, just thought I would clarify. I try to avoid situations like
Poster 1: "preference"
Poster 2: "different preference or suggestion that differs"
Poster 1: "you're wrong, and deliberately trying to mislead people"
since that attitude seems to be so prevalent (especially recently)
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Yup I mistook break in for the user with break in for the switch.
Edited above a little to reflect this now.
My bad too. I probably could have made it more clear, but Sometimes It's just easier to use catch-alls.