Given enough determination, anything can be pried open.
Since I don’t have any experience with this device, I’m gonna refer you to iFixit’s repair guide. Let me know if you have any further questions.
On that note, ESR meters can come in handy, too. Although the values they read can be misleading, because the ESR of electrolytic capacitors depends on the actual voltage applied. I’ve had a case where a cap that was bulged and leaking still measured perfectly fine.
Okay, then I may wanna order a heat gun or an iOpener then (not to mention the SSD obviously, might go for 512 GB since 1 TB mSATA is very expensive).
Without the use of a heat gun or the likes, you’ll have a hard time getting it apart.
Just be sure, have you tried booting a live operating system to verify that the SSD is dead? Also, since you mentioned that it didn’t turn on without charging, you might wanna check the battery as well.
Yeah for detailed testing of a capacitor you want an actual capacitor tester.
Lcr meters will measure the capacitor value, but unless it’s shorted out it will read as good.
Capacitor testers use a much higher voltage(depending on the rating of the cap under test)
Knowing which lead is the outside foil ( low impedance end) allows you to properly install it and minimize errant rfi noise in the circuit.
In power supplies that doesn’t matter much, but in rf and many audio amp Circuits it can make a lot of difference.
Already did, that’s how I knew the SSD failed. I booted a Linux flash drive and could not install the OS onto the SSD. Not to mention it wouldn’t boot to anything without the flash drive.
Good point on the battery though I am not sure if that’s even replaceable and such. I imagine the battery is at least in better shape than the SSD though since unplugged it still runs for a good amount of time.
I was actually talking about ESR (equivalent series resistance) meters, which can tell you if the capacitor in question has dried out over time. Mostly for quick diagnostics.
If still runs for a good while without being plugged in, the battery should be fine. Since you’re going to take it apart anyway, check if the battery has inflated. If it has, try to find a replacement for it, otherwise just leave it in.
Can anyone recommend me a good soldering station? I’m a newbie and want to find a soldering station.
If you’re just starting, any old 30 W soldering iron with a reasonably sized tip should serve you fine.
That being said, a TS100 is about as much bang for the buck as you can get.
1 Like
Like @Necronomicon mentioned, the T-100 is an excellent choice. But, with that said, I would recommend the Pinecil more highly. It has the same chipset and tips as the T-100, but it accepts USB C PD as a means of power in addition to the barrel jack that the T-100 is limited to. And it is cheaper!
One of the best reasons to pick one of these as your starter iron is that even when you eventually get a desktop solder station this will still be great to have in your mobile kit.
I greatly prefer irons with composite tips, where the temp sensor and heating element are integrated into the tip instead of the tip being a solid chunk of metal that is just a thermal mass.
The Hakko FX-951 is the cheapest Hakko bench top solder station with composite tips, but at $150 it is considerably more expensive than the Pinecil for $36.
1 Like
Can anyone recommend someone that works on Surface laptops?
The touch digitizer stopped working on my Surface Pro 5. I bought a new board off of ebay, but that didn’t fix the problem. I need someone that really knows these devices.
You can use heated desoldering pens but i prefer wicking excess solder.
Using copper braid, dip it in flux.
Melt the solder joint and wick up the solder
Aside from making sure the ribbon cable/strip is squarely in the connector and locked in.
The only other thing you can do is re install the driver.
If it still doesnt work then its possible that some smd component has fried on the tablet mainboard.
I know how to desolder and I’ve done it many times over the past 10 or so years. I still stand by what I said, desoldering is a lot harder or a least a lot more annoying than soldering. Especially on plated through holes, there’s always that last little bit of solder that refuses to come out.
Wooden toothpick inserted in hole while solder is melted is a trick ive used for over 45 years.
Not a lot of people mention that little trick,
Dont know why? Ive always passed on any little trick i learned to make it easier for others!
1 Like
What?! Never heared of that before. But that only works when there is no pin in there, i which case I normally just use one of those solder sucking things on the other side of the PCB.
But thanks for the tip, might come in handy one day.
I found a great soldering station, it’s Weller. This soldering equipment is a lightweight, high-quality item for everyday applications. For ease of use, it actually includes a soldering station, copper ti, iron holder, and cleaning pad.
https://www.galvinpower.org/best-soldering-stations/
1 Like
Can’t go wrong with that!
1 Like
It’s not wrong to revive this thread, is it?
Anyways! I have a toaster (Morphy Richards 228000 Glass Toaster) and it shorted the element recently. Because it’s a silly glass toaster, I’m not sure how to approach repair. Would it be physically possible, considering the element seems to be the glass? I assume it works like a heated windscreen but I can’t see an element embedded in the glass at all.
Any thoughts on possible fixes would be appreciated. Though reading those reviews suggests it’s a common problem and a faulty design. My Google-fu is either poor, or no one has tried to fix it before.
4 Likes