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Diy Water cooling experiment "Project FLEXSEAL"


#123


#124

Fixed another leak found all leaks so far found have been on the connection to the rads on the bottom where I expected leaks so fixes were easy and quick. Will be running longer tests while i prep v2


#125

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rip my wallet and now its time to wait the china shipping game about 15-30days is the shipping i paid for so i hope it comes soon


#126

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because i didn’t think the 3m standoffs would be too small for predrilled holes rip me


#127

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because the transmission radiators are odd to drain adding a hinge for a “rad mounting board” should make draining pretty easy


#128


Koolance adapters have arrived ! They are the top right fittings. Also I got some fuel line hose for the transmission rads for their in between tubing just cause


#129

this may have already been mentioned but i dont think that i have ever seen it done…what about using copper or aluminum tubing for the, well, tubing instead of plastic rubber or glass? more surface area for cooling…you could even get crazy and take copper tubing and add aluminum plates to it (before flaring one end) for even more surface area effectively making the tubing a radiator with a similar design concept to most aftermarket air coolers on the outside but, of course, with water etc., flowing through its veins


#130

Copper tubing would be interesting vs plastic. I know rad’s maximise surface area and a tube is a perfect smallest area vs material.


#131

Hard copper tube +1


#132

Version 2 … Full steam punk :slight_smile:


#133

I like how the rig is super ghetto for cooling but then you see EK block


#134

Yeah, it’s a wonderful juxtaposition.


#135

I have seen copper tubing used in a water cooled PC. It does look cool but it is a very specific look. Works well with certain themes.

I think this with its… Unique styling, it could work. Just the continuing mixed metals worries. Though… You could probably do ALU tubes too, not as aestheticly pleasing possibly but you could polish them up?


#136

my thought too was, i wonder how much of a difference it would make to add aluminum plates to the copper tubing and solder it versus just the typical press-fit style that you see on air coolers…way ahead of myself here i know but that soldered connection MUST transfer more heat…how cool would that be to not need a separate radiator because your tubing does it all? pun intended, btw…


#137

yes true, but I believe the concern is with mixed metals in contact with the liquid simultaneously…i THINK (though i am not a chemist) that having copper with aluminum ONLY on the copper’s exterior would work without causing any INTERNAL corrosion…i am sure that the joints would get a little green on the outside but that’s just patina amirite? or well, at least it would be easier to clean on the outside or even paint it in the first place so that it is free of oxidation…but im not 100% of course


#138

Should be fine. I’m not a chemist either, but I did take enough chemistry courses and the whole thing boils down to galvanic corrosion. Aluminum acts as a cathode, Copper acts as an anode. Aluminum is simply a lower quality metal than copper.


#139

Totally not an expert either. If you build it for easy fluid swaps and use distilled water etc that is cheap and replace often. Like 1-2 times a year. No problem.

Me doing a project like this would keep it for 4-5 years never fluid changing. It would be a train wreck.


#140

Honestly I rarely use the same block for more then 1 loop, always seem to change platform before it makes sense to use it again (looks at AM4 and X99 block)


#141

Copper fins would work. But even with an acid core flux, aluminum won’t take the solder.


#142


i plan on buying these along with aluminum 3/8 id tube 6061
the aluminum tubing will act as a heat sink the closer i can get the water to the air the better.