Decision time Help

So I have decided to build a PC for gaming, I am trying to stay within a £900 budget.

So far I have come up with this and I will be ordering soon and hoping you guys could check it out and make sure it will all go together no problem.

If anyone can see any problems with it or any suggestions on what to change please dont hesitate.

Thanks in advance

Looks decent, if 1866 RAM isn't too much more you might want to go for that for overclocking. Also if you can drop a few bucks anywhere else if it's just for gaming going with a FX6300 and 7870 might be a better option.

yeah what captinpip said, i would drop the HDD and grab it later.


would the 7870 increase fps by much?

Yes, a lot more than an 8350 would over a 6300.

Will the 6300 not bottleneck the 7870? I dont really know much about bottle necking but I always thought if you buy a cpu try and get a gpu around the same price.

It won't bottleneck it running stock speeds. Maybe if you OC'd the 7870 you'd start to experience a *little* bit of bottlenecking but nothing extreme and hardly noticable. 

good cpu and mobo combo... nice lil build.

I changed, well, everything but the processor, because the processor is damn good. However, since you appear to be corresponding from somewhere in or around the UK, the Club3D Joker series Radeon 7870 is definitely the way to go since it is essentially a Radeon 7930, and for whatever reason it is outperforning the Radeon 7950 cards. Anyway, you should also be using an aftermarket cooler with thermal paste of sufficient quality. A very inexpensive cooler like the Zalman will probably get you to 5 GHz on that chip, since it is such a thermally efficient chip. Umm, aside from that, really fast RAM with an okay CAS latency and an Adata SSD. Adata is really a fantastic company to get SSD's from since they are really inespensive for the kinds of IOPs that you get and the overall data rates that you are able to consistantly acheive. I went with a slightly different case simply because at the cost of a side panel, you get the ability to add a ton of fans all over the place, or, if you keep going with that case in later build updates, you could actually fit a dual 120 mil rad in the top and a dual 140 mil in the front. Plus it looks good and matches nicely with the power supply from the same brand. Fractal isn't well known for their power supplies, but they are nice ones. So, yeah. All of that power still at 905 pound (I had to type that pound sign because I'm from across the pond here in the US, and my keyboard doesn't have the symbol for that, and chrome still doesn't have an insert symbol function.)

Technically the whole system is bottlenecking the card because it doesn't actually support the native PCI-e 3.0 of the card, however, the cards don't typically saturate the available bandwidth. So if you got the updated 7870 XT and overclocked it all to hell, then you benchmarked it, you might notice a 10 to 20% decrease in speed compared to the same card in an Intel powered build, but that is simply because Intel natively supports PCI-e 3.0. If you absolutely must have full support though, ASUS is planning on releasing an AM3+ powered board that takes two full PCI-e 2.1 x16 lanes and smashes them together into one PCI-e 3.0 x16 lane. Which is cool, but sort of uneccesary unless you plan on running an Ares II or something of the like.

ok most of the changes you have made is good. but... you will not get a 5ghz oc on that board for 2 reasons 1. it's an msi board and iv heard nothing but bad things with high end oc on them. 2 even if the board was good enough for it's price point the powerphase will not handle that kind of oc, it will throttle the cpu and regarding you cooler it will not do a 5ghz OC no way, not in this lifetime mate.

also dont go western digital for your hard drive i personally have seen those damn contraptions die to many times, to consider them a valuable purchase. get a segate they are much better and they have been in the hardrive game much longer than WD.

and finaly get 1866 RAM as your board will just downclock the 2133 stuff unless you get a flagship motherboard, so there is no point really.

but +1 for the gpu choice espicially, the joker is meant to be one of the best tahiti's out there


Just because it has 4+1 phase power doesn't necessarily mean that it is inherently poor at overclocking, although admittedly it may have been a bit optimistic of me to say that it could go to 5 GHz, especially on air cooling. But it isn't exactly impossible. However, if it is that big of a worry for you...

unfortunately you have to pay an additional 30 pound to get an upgrade to 6+2 phase power delivery, and an additional 50 past that to get to 8+2 phase power delivery. So I did make a mistake in saying that it could go that high, although it is possible, it isn't recommended and may shorten the lifespan of some components like the motherboard and, depending on how it goes, the processor. A reasonable overclock to 4.3 GHz is recommended on that board, although the RAM is certainly able to be pushed to the limit that MSI sets.

About the RAM, MSI does hold good about the things it says it will do. If it says it will allow you to take RAM speeds up to 2133, then you can get them there. You might not have an open-ended overclocking spectrum like on the ASUS boards or ASRock boards, but you are guaranteed stability with the RAM overclocked to 2133. Doesn't mean that it won't autoclock it at the native clock speed of 1866 until you tell it otherwise.

As far as Western Digital goes, I've had some really good experiences using them, as well as using several other brands. I can't actually say I've ever had an issue with a hard drive, because they don't really fail that often without a reason. I mean, I had a Western digital that I had gotten in a desktop from my grandfather that I used for like, 5 years, then took out and tossed in a cubbard, and when I found it again several years later and connected it up again it still managed to run well. So I don't know if it is just a case of good luck or of the fact that they don't make things like they used to. But generally, hard drives are interchangeable, and few brands stand out very much until one of them messes up greatly. Seagate almost did that with the batch of bad controllers for their hybrid drives, but they also judt didn't perform as rapidly as the user was led to believe. So as far as hard disks are concerned, it really doesn't matter what you choose, and there is a Seagate and a Hitachi of the same size within a few pound of the price of this one, so it is really up to personal preference at that point. I prefer Western Digital because my IDE WD Caviar is just as good as my friends Sata 6 Hitachi... 

yeah i agree with the motherboard change and yes powerphase is where most of money goes into motheroards for good reason, and with WD your using a cavier black drive, that's a industry grade hardrive, it has to be reliable so a good exeperience should be expected. and yes segate had a faulty batch of hybrids, but they held there hands up. WD have never said "yeah we made a shitty harddrive" like the blues and green's which is two third's of there hardisk range and when a company is not willing to admit fault on there part you should question there practices, also you now see them hardly sold anywhere. the cavier you hav reffered has a 1yr warranty for a industry grade drive. the baracuda has a 2yr warranty and it's not even industrial grade, my point is when a brand is selling it's industrial grade drive's for cheaper than another brand's commercial grade drive like segate, that alone say's something about there product quality.

now im not knocking your personal experience with WD, the cavier black is ok, admittidly i dont hold hitachi up in good faith either nower days for commercial hardrive's even though im using a spare one from about 4 years ago, only cause it's spare and if dies before i change it out then it's all good as my important stuff is on a samsung dock drive. it's just iv exeperinced enough use cases to opt for segate over WD, let alone seen the problems people has posted about with WD drives on forums and systems builders opting for segate cause they can actually handle multiple drive raid configs like 5 and 6 on a comercial level over WD, and they dont fragmentment as frequently as WD cause of there smart writting tech. they are just all round better. when picking hardware yes it all personal prefrence at the end of the day i do no dispute that, but when armed with the fact's that may dictate what those preferences maybe 

Thanks for the help so far guys

I think I have decided on my final product this was due to the help of Logan and his UK build which he did a while back and your help.

I was adiment on having that Asrock motherboard but now I see that it is not able to overclock due to the way the power is supplied so I upgraded to the Asus one from logans build.

Could you guys please check over this and tell me what I could change to get it under £900 I guess the first place to start would be the case but I would like a case which has a window and has good cable management.

i changed out the gpu for a 7870 xt (tahiti le) for the same price but packs a bit more punch, otherwise your build is solid.

Im new to building pc's and never heard of the tahiti le edition of cards. I looked on amazon for one and well the reviews werent too good it says its unstable but then the others say there great are they an inconsistent card?

Could someone tell me whats the difference between them cards and the normal lets say xfx 7870 core edition

The Tahiti LE cards are based on the same platform that AMD has designed the 79xx series of cards around, and it also boasts significantly higher number of shader cores, also known as stream processors, since it builds these in sets with the texture rendering processors and the unified rendering processors, you get more of those as well. Basically you are getting a "detuned" 7950, although it is on a completely redesigned PCB, so it really is just a preview of the next generation of the 78XX lineup of cards. Some of the inconsistencies between the cards usually has to do with drivers and also the manufacturer. I haven't had a Powercolor or a Sapphire branded device, but they are known for being a brand of middling quality. Where you usually get products of adequate or more so quality, but it isn't quite as assured as with, say, asus. If you can get a hold of one, I would get the Club3d Joker series Radeon 7870 XT.

So I can't believe I'm about to contradict myself so readily but:

First of all, don't buy that board if you intend on doing serious overclocks and you turned down a 970 because of it. That board only has a 6+2 powerphase with two additional power phases for the GPU. I would recommend keeping to some moderate overclocks still on that board so as to not brick your system. So keep it below 4.5 GHz. That or find some money from somwhere and get the ASRock Extreme9 990FX board. It has a 12+2 powerphase, although it is significantly more expensive, you do pay for good parts. Also, if you are considering overclocking, which is why I assumed that you turned down the 970 powered board, then you need an aftermarket cooler of some form, because the stock one will barely keep it cool at the stock turbo speeds. And the A-data Premier Pro SP900 is a significantly better drive than the Crucial M4. And the Club3D Joker Radeon 7870 XT is a much better graphics card than the stock Radeon 7870. So, the price of the build I have here is almost 1050 pound. I can't think of a particularly good way of getting it cheaper without sacrificing a serious amount of power or potential usability.

And I totally just realized that that asus motherboard doesn't make any dramatic improvements in the number of power phases over the 970. Mostly because the 99X chipset just doesn't make use of that many power phases because it is designed for mid-ranged systems. The 990FX platform is the one you really want and even then you have to pick between the 8+2 and the 10+2 to find the very few 12+2 systems like the ASRock Extreme9 990FX. 

Still in terms of hard drives, I don't particularly find a reason to prefer one over the other even when considering things like the lengths of a warranty. Also, I tend to find that Enterprise drives aren't so easy to come by. Western Digital does offer certain benefits to their Caviar Black drives that you would ordinarily see in enterprise drives, but they are most certainly your standard consumer drives, with the aim of things like Caviar blue to be a standard user's 7200 RPM option and the Caviar Green to be the low power 5400 RPM option for people that don't mind using a slightly slower drive with a colossal amount of storage space (in the case of people with their OS on an SSD.) Just so you know, the majority of true Enterprise Drives are used within servers where SATA is a far less than optimal solution because the drives cannot be daisy-chained together. So instead they tend to use SAS, which is what they offer on the tiop two tiers of the WD Enterprise Lineup, which eschews the Caviar monicker. The other Enterprise drive is actually SATA and is designed for applications such as standalone desktops in business and enterprise applications. These come in anything from 400 GB to 4 TB flavors, all of which are 7200 RPM. The SAS drives come in 7200 or 10000 RPM flavors. A similar SATA option from WD is the Velociraptor which comes in at up to a terabyte of storage and spins at 10000 RPM. But the Velociraptor is still not actually their Enterprise Level Hardware, they just say that it shares in some of the feature set.

+1 to mndless, "I would get the Club3d Joker series Radeon 7870 XT" good thing i replaced it with that very card :)