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Creality CR-10 3D Printer


#81

Phaha. Yea this will be my first printer and first everything about 3D printing. Looking forward to it. And if it breaks I will repair it. That’s my mentality.
So the Delta kit will make yours like mine. Upgrading to a CR-10 with an S?


#82

No, it’s a complete new printer, different style to the CR-10. I’ll be making a new thread for it once it arrives.

A lot more assembly required, which is half the fun.

I am about to attempt switching over to an E3D hotend on my CR-10 right now, so I’ll post pics up once I’ve done that.

The stock one is ok, but I want to print higher temperature filaments, so the all metal hotend will be better for that.


#83

The E3D V6 is on & printing away in PETG happily. Had a couple of false starts with getting it to stick, but seems to be ok now.

I used these mounts:

I Re-used the thermister & heater cartridge from the stock CR-10 hotend.
hotend

done

benchy

No part cooling fan yet, but that should be simple enough if I find I need one.

@k3g I had a look for the Gcode for the failed print, but had deleted it from the card. I recovered it, but it is corrupted & can’t be read on G code viewer.


#84

Sweet new hotend! I like the e3d hotends. They’re dirt simple, and perform well over long periods of time.

I’m also a huge Delta fan (my main printer is a diy delta). Are you going with a kit? What kind of Delta is it? Have you read into the calibration procedures for deltas? They’re waaaaaay different than calibrating a cartesian.


#85

Yeah, I’ve had the mk10 clog up a few times when trying higher temps, but the E3D seems to love the heat.

The Delta is an Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus. I’m looking forward to the difference in style, should be a fun build.

http://www.anycubic3d.com/

The completed Benchy. It came out ok. A little stringing, which I think reducing the temp a few degrees & upping the travel speed should fix.

White Aurarum PETG
.2mm layer height
30mm/sec print speed
50mm/sec travel speed - I usually run it at 120mm/sec, but dropped it due to bed adhesion issues. I picked up some buildtak today, so can bump it back up now.

IMG_20171102_185135

IMG_20171102_185147


#86

I have been on a little holiday, and had time to think, but I see you tried the roll back and it worked… I am going to do the same, I have been having filament issues or rather I think the g-code that has issues moving filament.


#87

Well I discovered a magical technique to get prints to stay on the glass bed. No glue, no tape, no hairspray, just your glass bed and filament…

220 grit sand paper…sand all over, circles / horizontal/ vertical/ diagnal.

I haven’t had a problem since.
Just wanted to share.


#88

Printed this fan mount in PETG on the CR-10 for my other printer. I used simplify3d to slice it, the supports are awesome. The overhang came out perfect & to remove the supports, I just had to pinch them lightly & off they came.

psmo

I also printed the E3D lion, but my settings were wrong, so it had a fair bit of stringing, should come out a lot better now that I’ve got the PETG dialed in.

P1013705


#89

New hotend mount printed in PETG, the one I have been using was done in PLA & warped a little due to temperature. This is more heavy duty & also has mount points on both sides, so adding a fan will be easy.

P1013707

P1013706


#90

Some more good results with the CR-10. I’m running without a cooling fan at the moment- I’m waiting for a shipment of bolts to arrive so I can finish upgrading the hotend. So there is a bit of stringing going on & a few hot spots, but nothing major. These were printed in PETG again.

ruby rose

bvss

bvss1

Links to the models:
Ruby Rose
Batman Vs Superman


#91

Urgent question does the second smaller fan that’s on the hot end suppose to be turned off aka not spinning?
This one:

The bigger front facing is working fine.

OMG EDIT: Just as I posted this I noticed it turned itself on -___- well that answers the question.


#92

I’ve tried every which way to get bed adhesion but I learned a great way from Youtuber Ivan Miranda. You buy some 12x12 mirrors from HomeDepot for $10, then you take each one and using soapy hot water, you wash each mirror then dry with paper towel. Make sure to never touch the mirror with your fingers as oils with mitigate their adhesion effectiveness (I use latex gloves when I wash them). Then I throw them on my print bed, level, and print.

If you wait for the print to cool down you can here the print creek. Once it gets down to about 25 deg. Celcius, you can just lift off the print. The bottom of the print looks awesome too – like glass.

When I feel like the prints are not adhering as well, I switch out to a new piece of glass. I often don’t even have to re-level.


#93

I’ve tried glass as well with mixed results. Still had lifting on the corners of large prints, but it worked ok for small things.

I’ve been using the Anycubic Ultrabase for nearly 2 months now. I have 2 printers using them running 24 hours a day & have not had a fail yet. I just give them a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol before each print.


#94

Hey I had the same problem and rotated the glass 90degrees anti clockwise, the problem went away.


#95

I’ve found a combination of the right filament and bed temp keep the corners from lifting. I print eSun PLA+ filament mostly with a starting bed temp of 80 deg. and remaining temp at 65 deg. with a skirt. The only reason I do a skirt is just to get rid of any residue on/in the nozzle. If it’s the first print of the day and I know the nozzle is clean, I print it with no “Build Plate Adhesion Type” (Cura 3.1.0).

Have you ever found different colors of the same brand and type of PLA (or PLA+ in my case) to print differently with the same settings? It’s been baffling me lately that the eSun PLA+ Blue prints great, then I switch to gray and it prints like the nozzle and bed temps are too low. Ever dealt with this?


#96

Yes, definitely, each color uses a slightly different mix, so will print best at different temperatures. I find black likes to be 5-10 degrees hotter on the nozzle than most other colors.

My CR-10 seems to need a hotter bed for PETG, it won’t stick properly until 90c. The same filament on my delta printer using the same print surface is rock solid at 65c. Maybe a sensor reading wrong, or uneven heating on the CR-10 bed.

It’s not an issue for me now I’ve found it’s happy place though, so i’m not too worried.


#97

I set my bed at 65 and it prints anything. I checked and I have no insulation on the bottom of the bed.
Insulate with plumbers felt like this guy did.


#98

I put a piece of cardboard underneath it.
Already helps a ton against temperature oscillation .

Also everyone i can truly reccomend this:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/5-PCS-200-200MM-3D-Printer-Accessories-Red-Painter-Print-Bed-Tape-Print-Sticker-Build-Plate/32706275693.html

i’ve got my printbed on 40c and ever since i have that stuff on i’ve never had a print coming off again.
absolutely amazing stuff and cheap!

I put it on the glass i’ve used before.
and that sheet of glass (with the sticker) is on top of the heated bed.
make’s it easy to get prints off and replace the sheet if ever needed.
Just buy a new cheap picture frame, put on a new sheet and game on.
I’ve had about 30 prints and the sheet is still as new.


(that grey thing with zipties in front of the fan is a Pen holder for plotting btw)

Finished print and files

files:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2248283
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2738773
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1898518


3D Printing Starters Guide, FAQ, Helpdesk, General Talk Thread
#99

Are you noticing any wear on the build plate at all? I have some friends who print on these (or ones like them) and they go through them a lot faster than you do – which is expensive. You must be doing something right…or they’re doing something wrong.

Here is the link to the 300x300mm plate of the same make: 300x300mm Build Plate


#100

How many prints do you get off the Anycubic Ultrabase before replacement?