I’ve got some PETG & glow in the dark filament on the way, looking forward to testing those.
A picture of a failure I woke up to this morning:
No idea why. The timer had stopped at 41 hours, but continued counting up on a second timer, which was at 43 hours.
No power outs, no clogs or broken filament. Build plate was still heated, nozzle was at operating temp, fans were running. It just stopped mid layer. I told it to auto home & everything moved fine, so it’s a bit of a mystery… warming up for a different model now to see if it was just a one time thing. Maybe a problem in the G-code? It looked ok in Cura before printing.
I don’t mind failures, it’s part of the process, but it sucks not knowing why!
That issue is in the gcode itself, caused from the splicer… I have been having some issues with g-code myself sliced with cura… I am contemplating looking into simplify3d, and doing a comparison between the same print and the 2 different splicers.
It sure looks like it wanted to print though.
They’re pretty good for cartesians. The cost of entry is pretty decent for what you get out of it.
If you’re willing to reprap/build your own, there’s options for much higher build volume, speed, and accuracy out there for around the price. #deltamasterrace
Edit to reply to @Sensai I have s3d and Cura. Want me to do a comparison and load it up here? s3d’s supports are a game-changer, and the pathing algorithm they use makes prints a little faster.
Layer shifting is generally not directly slicer related. Probably something was off with speed causing the motor to skip steps due to heat or something.
Do you still have the gcode file from this layer-shifted print?
Layer shifts can be caused by many things, but if the slicer is at fault there will be evidence in the gcode.
If the SDcard is at fault, the gcode will be fine. If the printer is mechanically skipping steps (usually a loose belt or pulley), the gcode will also be fine, but a calibration object can reveal mechanical issues.
A weird issue I ran into once with my Delta was the heat-soak would pass the heatbreak in the hotend by ~2.5hrs of printing, and it would let the hotend sag in the end effector just enough to drop the nozzle height, which would make the print head crash into the part, totally screwing the build. Point being, there’s lots of angles to troubleshoot for printers. I usually like to start with software and rule out any of those issues before tackling hardware.
The inside is great, perfect fit- the height is spot on too, there is no movement at all when you shake the full box, but the tips don’t mark the lid, so it must be exactly the right height.
Cool, that has some nice upgrades to it over the original version.
I’ve got a Delta kit on the way, I love the CR-10, but I didn’t learn a thing about them putting it together. Making a sandwich is a more complex activity
waste of plastic
