ABS smoke is poison… i am not sure if you would be better off lead solder smoke lol… either way that stuff is so bad I just won’t even bother buying any. On the otherhand with consistent heat ABS is supposed to print lots nicer.
ABS is the bane of my life
I have a PEI bed but the damn stuff still refuses to stick. Just had a pretty huge failure. Print was drifting around for a good hour leaving me with a black blob of plastic on the hotend.
This is the next printer on my list. Anyone with this printer done the dual z upgrade and what are your thoughts on it? From the looks of it, this printer seems pretty much plug and play and does some quality prints out of the box.
It’ll be fun to compare its prints to my Prusa MK2 (Once I rebuild it)
I started printing some house numbers for the back alleys, and something happened. Suddenly nothing would stick. After 7 numbers it was like a slip n slide. I tried a few other things, to no avail then took a break. I woke up in the morning and decided to pull off all the tape, so I am printing only on clean glass. I leveled it and set my extruder temp to 200 and my plate temp to 65. I havent had a single issue printing anything since. No more scraping anything off, as it basically falls off after it cools. I have been printing and walking away. I just wanted to share this with those who have this printer… try it.
Yeah, I found getting the bed levelling right was the biggest factor in getting prints to stick.
I’m using hairspray as well just to make sure it stays down. My last print was 46 hours, the one prior to that was 66, so I like to make sure it stays in place!
I’m having more trouble getting the prints to release than stick now. A tip for getting particularly well attached prints off is to take the glass/mirror off the printer & put it in the freezer for a few minutes.
As far as I understand you prints are sticking so well cause of the hair spray… and a raft will do the same job without the hair spray.
A big reason for prints not to stick is that the heatbed has not been PID tuned.
Therefore shrinking and expanding multiple times a minute and effectively breaking the print loose over time (usually 10min or so).
Look up PID tuning
I use glass and a glue stick on mine. The glass I got from a dollar store picture frame and same for the glue stick. Thinking about getting one of those printbite surfaces but the shipping costs to the US makes it hard to justify over my dollar store solution.
I use the same method,
That’s the go to way.
Another thing I heard that works well without any hairspray or glue is a 12" mirror tile.
The most important thing about bed prep is:
Wipe that shit down with some isopropyl alcohol. Even the slightest finger oils on the bed can cause a headache. And bed leveling is crucial as well.
I’ve tried a metric ton of bed adhesion methods like hairspray, glue sticks, diluted school glue, kapton tape, pet tape, and of course the classic masking tape.
If you can afford it, I would highly recommend a sheet of PEI and some 3M adhesive double sided transfer tape. It’s pretty pricy, but the amount of time and headaches you save is totally worth it. There’s a reason why the majority of the popular commercial printers are using it: Prusa and LulzBot for example.
Just wanted to share. I decided to print with PETG. A friend of mine has a halloween party every year. All invited bring their own alcohol and a mickey of something to make shooters with. Needless to say random shooters get made every year. So I decided to print one of these for him with PETG. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:832751
It is currently about1/3 done. Bed plate is at 68 degrees and extruder temp 220. Looks like it is doing just fine… so far. Suceed or fail I will post some pics when its done… says its an 8 hour job. I am printing it solid and at 0.1mm layer.
Just a question … does anyone know max bed temp and max extruder temp for the cr -10 ?
Max bed temp shouldn’t be an issue since you’ll likely hit the limits of the inexpensive heater. Nevertheless you generally only need to go up to 100c at most, which is for ABS.
The hotend likely has a PTFE liner, so the maximum hotend temp shouldn’t exceed 235c.
I’ve had the bed to 100c, but it takes a loooong time to get there, even in an enclosure. It’s a big bed to heat up.
I’ve had the hotend to 235-245c playing around with abs, but you would want to switch to an all metal hotend if you plan on doing higher temp stuff, i’m not sure if anyone makes a bolt on replacement for the CR-10.
Thanks for the answers on the temps…I was only concerned cause I didn’t want to burn anything out. Apparently there is some safety that says MAX TEMP… warming system of some sort. Well I seem to be printing PETG well, except it pulled off the bed plate half way through.
I tried to tape it to the bed but it became an instant fail afterwards. The print job itself came out nice, until the print decided it wanted to do the boomtown shuffle. LOL.
So I aligned the bed with the extruder and this time put a bit of glue , buddy of mine as a cubex duo, and it requires glue. Currently it is about where it was when it broke off last print. One layer of glue and by the time the print was ready to start (heat etc) the glue was pretty much dry.
And drum roll … after one layer of golden liquid type glue in a glue stick… the printer with PETG comes through.I kept the extruder temp to 220 and set the bed temp to 65… This was the result after 8 hours.
I took off the brim layer and clean as a whistle.
So what next… this is a sucess in my opinion. I have for “exotic” filaments… translucent TPE , and ooh some black Carbon Fiber… that almost sounds like a pair of runners…
Any sugestions or requests ?
@Mora Have you seen this? I am thinking of getting one, not because my experience in such things is so vast lol, so much as, I dont think one would ever have to buy another head.
Nice, does it seem like the layers stuck together correctly? I thought that PETG liked temps up around 240-250c.
I’ve been wanting to try flexible filament, but from what I understand it can be difficult with the bowden style extruder, so I haven’t attempted it on the CR-10.
Regarding the nozzle, those ruby ones look pretty good, It’s a lot to spend on a nozzle though.
I’m currently in the process of making some that, in theory, should be almost as good as the ruby in wear resistance but at 1/3 the price. I have a shipment on the way of some special high temp tool steel. Probably won’t have a finished product until early next year once machining & heat treatment are completed, but I could send you a prototype for testing once they are finished.
beware that this wears down any brass nozzle extremely quickly and will need to be replaced after a couple hundred grams is run through.
sounds cool I would like proto type to try out… as far as flexible filaments bowden tube is the only way to use it… I tested with it… a failed print but once in the bodewn tube it does what it is supposed to, just like any other filament.
The PETG print seemed to work well. I tested with water and no leaks.