Some more good results with the CR-10. I’m running without a cooling fan at the moment- I’m waiting for a shipment of bolts to arrive so I can finish upgrading the hotend. So there is a bit of stringing going on & a few hot spots, but nothing major. These were printed in PETG again.
Links to the models:
Ruby Rose
Batman Vs Superman
Urgent question does the second smaller fan that’s on the hot end suppose to be turned off aka not spinning?
This one:
The bigger front facing is working fine.
OMG EDIT: Just as I posted this I noticed it turned itself on -___- well that answers the question.
I’ve tried every which way to get bed adhesion but I learned a great way from Youtuber Ivan Miranda. You buy some 12x12 mirrors from HomeDepot for $10, then you take each one and using soapy hot water, you wash each mirror then dry with paper towel. Make sure to never touch the mirror with your fingers as oils with mitigate their adhesion effectiveness (I use latex gloves when I wash them). Then I throw them on my print bed, level, and print.
If you wait for the print to cool down you can here the print creek. Once it gets down to about 25 deg. Celcius, you can just lift off the print. The bottom of the print looks awesome too – like glass.
When I feel like the prints are not adhering as well, I switch out to a new piece of glass. I often don’t even have to re-level.I’ve tried glass as well with mixed results. Still had lifting on the corners of large prints, but it worked ok for small things.
I’ve been using the Anycubic Ultrabase for nearly 2 months now. I have 2 printers using them running 24 hours a day & have not had a fail yet. I just give them a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol before each print.
Hey I had the same problem and rotated the glass 90degrees anti clockwise, the problem went away.
I’ve found a combination of the right filament and bed temp keep the corners from lifting. I print eSun PLA+ filament mostly with a starting bed temp of 80 deg. and remaining temp at 65 deg. with a skirt. The only reason I do a skirt is just to get rid of any residue on/in the nozzle. If it’s the first print of the day and I know the nozzle is clean, I print it with no “Build Plate Adhesion Type” (Cura 3.1.0).
Have you ever found different colors of the same brand and type of PLA (or PLA+ in my case) to print differently with the same settings? It’s been baffling me lately that the eSun PLA+ Blue prints great, then I switch to gray and it prints like the nozzle and bed temps are too low. Ever dealt with this?
Yes, definitely, each color uses a slightly different mix, so will print best at different temperatures. I find black likes to be 5-10 degrees hotter on the nozzle than most other colors.
My CR-10 seems to need a hotter bed for PETG, it won’t stick properly until 90c. The same filament on my delta printer using the same print surface is rock solid at 65c. Maybe a sensor reading wrong, or uneven heating on the CR-10 bed.
It’s not an issue for me now I’ve found it’s happy place though, so i’m not too worried.
I set my bed at 65 and it prints anything. I checked and I have no insulation on the bottom of the bed.
Insulate with plumbers felt like this guy did.
I put a piece of cardboard underneath it.
Already helps a ton against temperature oscillation .
Also everyone i can truly reccomend this:
https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/5-PCS-200-200MM-3D-Printer-Accessories-Red-Painter-Print-Bed-Tape-Print-Sticker-Build-Plate/32706275693.html
i’ve got my printbed on 40c and ever since i have that stuff on i’ve never had a print coming off again.
absolutely amazing stuff and cheap!
I put it on the glass i’ve used before.
and that sheet of glass (with the sticker) is on top of the heated bed.
make’s it easy to get prints off and replace the sheet if ever needed.
Just buy a new cheap picture frame, put on a new sheet and game on.
I’ve had about 30 prints and the sheet is still as new.
files:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2248283
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2738773
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1898518
Are you noticing any wear on the build plate at all? I have some friends who print on these (or ones like them) and they go through them a lot faster than you do – which is expensive. You must be doing something right…or they’re doing something wrong.
Here is the link to the 300x300mm plate of the same make: 300x300mm Build Plate
How many prints do you get off the Anycubic Ultrabase before replacement?
No, virtually none.
Some hair scratches but that’s it.
Just be somewhat gentle and don’t use sharp knives on it.
Sometimes you do however need to use quite some force trying to get a print off.
(I need to be careful to not break the glass it’s put uppon).
But nothing to bad.
Does anyone know of any Cura settings where the bed will stay heated if the filament runs out? I went to bed last night and woke up to a filament change error. Problem is, the slightest touch and the print comes off the bed. I guess I can just reheat the bed before I make the filament change, but I’m not sure how it’d stick again.
Anyway, if there’s a setting in Cura, I can’t find it. Thanks.
With your printer settings you can put “before” and “after” printing GCODE.
You could change the after printing GCODE to activate the heated bed.
(I-am not at home so i can’t check how and where exactly sorry.)
Awesome, thanks! That’s great to know.
Another question: Anyone have any luck with supports in Cura? Someone mentioned S3D above but I’d like to use Cura. Right now my support either 1) are impossible to get off, 2) don’t provide enough support, and/or 3) cause excessive stringing. Anyone willing to post their support settings from Cura here?
Thanks.
when I do supports, which is as little as possible, I prefer to flip the model around to make it so supports are not required, if at all possible. Anyways I only support the from the base, I have never had any problems taking them off… I am at work currently, but I will double check my settings, I don’t think there was anything else… but can’t be sure.
Ok so I bought a second CR-10S the other day and I found some unique differences between the new one and my old one. I was wondering if you guys could help me out with the problems.
Question: Is there a way to load the new software onto my old printer?
Question: Do you guys think this is a tuning issue with the physical settings of the printer? I leveled both using the paper method. Have any of you seen the Z-axis gantry to be significantly off? Do you think the newer CR-10S control software would make a difference in the print quality?
Here are the differences between the old and new printers:
Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance.
I do the same thing. I have also created custom supports in Inventor, although I’d like to have them generated in my slicer. I finally bought S3D and their support creation and customization is worth the $150 for sure.
Can you tell me what brand/type PETG you used?
