Probably for the best that you didnt. I made it halfway through the manual and it just stopped giving any decent instructions. They give you a picture of how it should look and then you just gotta figure it out.
Printer arrived today, I got home at 3:40pm, it's now 5:30 pm & I've assembled, read the instructions (which are actually pretty good), and am half way through my first print. This thing is ridiculously easy to put together.
4 screws to bolt the base to the upright section. 2 plugs onto the control box, then just the plugs from the control box onto the end stops & motors- which all seemed to have been pre-fitted, as the wires were bent in such a way that it just naturally fit into the plug. I hadn't even read the manual at this stage (it's on the included micro sd card), and had it wired up correctly in minutes.
Quality is really good. No issues with bolts not fitting, no awkward to get to plugs.
The motors are pretty quiet, about as loud as your average laser printer. The fans are rather noisy, both in the control box & on the hotend. I'll replace these with some Noctuas I think.
They did include an Australian adapter, which I thought was cool, as I got the EU version on a flash sale. It doesn't have an earth on it though, so I'm using a proper adapter instead, but the thought was nice at least.
Packaging was A1 quality, almost EVGA levels. Very impressed.
Included a few tools, lots of spares & a roll of PLA.
Thats epic. The build volume is insaine. I must say having a printer is awesome. Theyre really fun to play with. Plus you can actually print a lot of useful stuff too. Ive printed some car parts and awkward mounts. If only someone made a centralized 3-d printing thread.... @kewldude007
I printed a couple of brackets to hold wires, they turned out pretty rough, but usable.
The version of Cura that the printer comes with is pretty old, I downloaded 2.4 last night & tried printing the front panel of a Thermaltake F6 commander that I drew in Sketchup. Got a much better result. The holes were out of round, which I believe was caused by the Y axis belt not being tight enough. I'm printing an adjuster for it now. There is visible lag when changing direction on Y.
Pretty happy with the straight lines, just need to sort those holes out.
Not sure if the lines on the face are normal or not, could be due to print quality, or maybe the belt issue again paging @kewldude007
With a bit more tuning & playing with settings I think I'll be able to get some good results.
This print was made with PLA, I may try out ABS on the weekend when I have some more free time.
I couldnt get cura to work well with my printer. I switched to slic3r and got much better results. I had to turn up my retraction settings 6mm @ 60mm/s and print at 80mm/s. I was getting the same strings before I did that.
Are you using the heated bed and tape? Cause I dont think you need both.
Oh, I tried the print straight onto the glass & had lifting issues, so went back to tape while I work those out. I tried raising temps on the bed & the hot end for the initial layer & slowing the speed down, but it didn't help.
I'm out of cleaning alcohol, so will grab some when I'm out tomorrow & see if a good scrub helps it stick.
for PLA, clean glass with couple of layers gluestick (i just use pritt) on top heated @ 70c You'll never have warping again it sticks like a mf, and pops off easily when cooled down. And it lasts for many prints! atleast 40 prints on my printer.
(only drawback is that the bottom finish is not as perfect and shiny)
I was using ABS on the weekend & it didn't even want to think about sticking until I used the glue.
Got a few good parts, but had an 8 hour print lift at about 6 hours in
I wasn't able to get the bed temp high enough. It's getting cold here at night & I haven't got an enclosure for the printer, so the max I could hold was 90c. I'll be building a cabinet over the easter break to let me get higher temps.
I was really impressed with the quality of the ABS prints that did turn out though. The holes were much cleaner & the tolerances were perfect, bolts slotted straight in.
PLA is going much better now, printing straight onto glass with the gluestick coating.
I made up a bench & enclosure for the printer this weekend. Got delayed today when I was out getting supplies, my car decided that it didn't want to go into gear. An hour of walking & a few zip ties later it was fixed, but it still screwed up my flow.
I still want to put a box on the side to house the filament, but the bracket that came with the printer is working nicely for now.
I do wish the cables were slightly longer from the control box, it's not easy to get it into a good position.
Despite the enclosure, I still can't get past 96c on the bed, so will have to look at getting a heated pad I think.
It really made it much quieter though. I have some Noctua fans coming this week to replace the jet engines inside the control box, once that is done, I'll barely be able to hear it
Time to muffle this thing. The fans were way too loud for my liking.
I actually got the wrong size. I measured the fans on the hotend at 40mm, had a quick look inside the control box & assumed that the little ones inside were the same size... However, one is 50x10, the other is 40x20.
No problem, I have some 40s, a spare 60, some zip ties & have seen MacGyver, we can fix this.
These joiners that come with the 40mm Noctua fans are fantastic, just push the wires in, no stripping required & squish it with some pliers. The joiner cuts into the wire & holds it in place, as well as breaks open a glue capsule, so everything is perfectly sealed.
And after throwing a spare splitter in there, we've gone from 2 to 3 fans, increase the total cfm being moved & cut the noise to barely audible. How much quieter is it? I can hear the fan on the hotend inside the enclosure above the control box now, which is my next target. I just need to work out if the Noctua 40mm will move enough air compared to the 40mm hairdryer that is on there now. I think with a new shroud directing the flow better it should be ok.