I have two 17" Asus laptops, one being the a75 with i7 (which takes air in from the bottom though, the keyboard is on a metal plate), and originally I used to have temperatures of up to 85°C at full load in Windows and up to 75°C at full load in Fedora, and I didn't like that, so I took the thing apart and replaced the crappy TIM of both the CPU and GPU with some MX4, and lapped the copper baseplates, and now I have about 45°C at full load in Windows and about 40°C at full load in Fedora (and that's really full load Prime95+Combuster). On my older Core2Duo N71, I also added two extra heatpipes, hacked the BIOS, and changed the CPU to a Core2Quad, and I get maximum about 48°C at full load.
These chips don't have a heat spreader, with the stock TIM they are a disaster waiting to happen. If you want sustained maximum performance without radically limiting the lifetime of the device, you have to lap the baseplates and replace the TIM, it's the only option. If you burn the CPU/GPU and you would complain about that during warranty, they would just say that you haven't used it normally anyway, that it's not a desktop PC nor a professional or gaming laptop, etc...
Warning: taking these things apart is not for the weak harted or the impatient, it takes some skills and experience with building computers, it's not easy! Mirror-lapping a thin copper baseplate fixed to a heatpipe fixed to another heatpipe with an even smaller thin copper baseplate, is not an easy thing to do, if you warp the heatpipes, warp the baseplates, or change the geometry in any way, you'll be in a world of hurt. The factory TIM on the GPU is a cushion, not paste, so when replacing it with paste, you'll have to change the height and the pressure of the baseplate on the GPU, without affecting the height and pressure of the baseplate on the CPU, so you'll need measuring tools, at least special clamps, heating equipment, you'll need to install a retention bracket for the GPU baseplate so that there is downward pressure applied to the baseplate of the GPU (which isn't there by default, so you'll have to drill at least two holes through the motherboard to install one, which obviously is not easy) ==> don't even start unless you know instinctively what you need and how to do such work. Especially adding heatpipes is a specialised job, it has to be calculated first, adding heatpipes may destroy your cooling system completely and burn your CPU and/or GPU in seconds, the soldering of the heatpipes is not easy at all and requires specialised equipment most people don't have access to, so don't try it at home unless you know exactly how to do it. Basically, if you don't have knowledge that would equal a degree in physics, don't even start thinking about it.
There are specialised modders that will do this kind of work, I recommend finding one or not even thinking about it.
It seems extreme, but a laptop is not a custom desktop, if you want desktop performance, you'll have to do the same to it as to a desktop, but it's going to be much more difficult. If you don't want to do all that, just be content with the way it is, keep the fins of the heatsink dust free, and don't use your laptop as a desktop. The Tj of Intel laptop chips is about 100-105 °C, so you're not going to destroy anything right away, it's just not going to last a lifetime, but then it wasn't made for that, it was made so that consumers have to buy a new one every three years or so.
Remark: I use either a Zalman notebook cooler, or the best notebook cooler ever (it really is), the Arctic Cooling Arctic NC, it's probably also the cheapest notebook cooler, and it's just plastic fantastic looking, but the cooling performance is way better than any other notebook cooler I've ever used. I do roll up the screen protection microfiber cloth and tuck it in under the right side of the notebook because the draft of the cooler otherwise destroys my right hand muscles when I'm using the mouse.