CONSOLE CONVERT (soon to be) need some help

Hardware Hub Build a PC
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Hey Tek people, I am looking to build my first all in one computer for mainly games and video/photography editing. See, the thing is I am new to pc builds but that is half the fun of pc gaming right? (insted of those prebuild buys)

Like I said I am looking for a editing/gaming build for just under £2000 (I am Britsh btw)

I have done some reseach and here are my results:

 

CPU - Intel i74770k ( kudo cores and overclockability )

GPU - EVGA 770 2gb acx cooling ( Value for money is great and I think Nvidia usally runs best with intel?)

MOBO - ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 TUF ( I like the garantee, cooling, dust defence and durability of the board)

RAM - I need help ( from my understanding the cpu and mobo only support 1600mhz ram? 1. is thing true andshould I get a different mobo because of this? 2. does it really matter?)

SSD - kingston hyper x 3k 120gb

HDD - seagate barrcuda 3tb 7200rpm

CASE - I need help ( I'm not sure how big this is going to be but I like the look of nzxt phantom and corsair obsidian )

COOLING - I need help ( Probably Corsair but what would I need? Just a cpu cooler? I hear the haswells get pretty hot. And does the cpu cooling come with attional cooling for the case? )

PSU - Corsair HX850 PRO 80+ (maybe with more watts I can add another gpu down the line)

 

Also half my budget is going towards periferals as this will be my first build but I think I am happy with these.

 

Moniter - 120hz BenQ XL2420T 24 inch Widescreen LED

Keyboard - Razor Black widow 2013

Mouse - Razor Death Adder 2013

 

Please go easy on me as thing is my first post.

ALL HELP IS WELCOME

 

The key points are my confusion with only 1600mhz ram with the cpu and mobo. and cooling and case.

 

thanks.

 

 

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I believe you are getting the Cuda cores from the Nvidia Graphics cards mixed up with the i7. As far as I know the Cuda cores are great for 3d rendering and for the use of PhysX but not much else (compared to AMD).

Nvidia running on Intel won't necessarily be better it just depends on which CPU your getting. If you plan on doing a lot of video editing than get the i7 if your only lightly editing get the i5 as it does much the same for less or you could even look at AMD's 8350.

RAM all you really need is 1600Mhz memory 8gb will be plenty you can always upgrade to 16gb if you get into heavy editing

Get a smaller more efficient PSU say a 550-600w Gold from Corsair/Seasonic/Silverstone (other trusted brands). Take tips from Linus http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FK4ip08auGg it's more likely that your going to sell your graphics card in 1-2 years and upgrade to whatever the next generation of graphics cards there are at that time.

Do you really want to spend all that money on a 120hz monitor? if so get ASUS VG248QE 24" it's over $100 cheaper unless you can get the BenQ on a good sale like I see it is currently on Newegg.

As for the case it's pretty much all personal preference as long as it's from a reliable brand.

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Haswells get hot because they've got high temp rating, meaning they are stable and will run hot. Compared to a Fx8350 where it starts throttling at 65 (haswell tjmax is 105, throttles around 100, 80 is considered safe for some reason) on the minuscule stock cooler that temperature is normal for haswell. You're not gonna get much overclocking at all on haswell, if you want that little extra performance for single threaded games or whatever, ivy bridge overclocks a lot better. Haswell tops at 4.5 if you're lucky. That's the reason, and the fact that you miss some instruction sets, that I got a normal 4770.

I don't reccomend boxed watercooling kits since they're not much better than a good air cooler. It's best if you do it yourself and while your at it (investing in a water loop) buy the best config possible so you don't have to change it when upgrading.

That plastic crap, dust defence, is useless, it'll probably get more dust than being a clean cable managed case cleaned once in a while. You're willing to pay so much for a paltry overclock you can do on any motherboard (though if you still want z87, go with 8 power phases). The durabillity thing is often a marketing lie since it's mostly user based, how much you push your equipment.

You could save a lot of money by going AMD, good 1150 mobos are a lot more expensive and the same feautures on them are available for half the price on a good am3+ motherboard. If you really want to get PCIe 3.0, then get a better video card, skimp on the rest, that's what you want for gaming, not some useless ports and feautures you will not use on the mobo.

Speaking of saving money, nvidia is the worst option when going with intel since it's expensive in that price range. Go for a 770 and up to make it worth your investment. Seriously the midrange cards are crap compared to AMD. If you're building this more for the gaimz then get a proper video card and save on other stuff.

A single 3tb harddrive? Man I hope they make them last now, cause if that fails you, you're gonna wish you bought more (more drives, maybe raid them, you get to play around with raid configs for either better speed or reliabillity or both).

The ram is fine, if you get higher than 1600, 1866 for some mobos, it will run as OC, so the speed difference is minimal, plus if you're gonna overclock, get 1600 or 1866 since it's easier to raise the ratio with that, and go with 1.5v , anything over 1.65v is dangerous according to intel's manual.

Good luck I hope it broadens your perspective. Research before you buy, never listen to fanboys, never listen to just 2-3 big review sites (they've been invaded by fanboys). Research research, it's your money!

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http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1kPVQ

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Personally I like the ROCCAT SAVU gaming mouse better than the Deathadder mouse (both are 2012 editions). The consesus on the internet at the moment seems to me to be that the Deathadder mouse is the great; but I´ve just turned into PC gaming myself (after years on console gaming) and I find the two thumb-buttons on the left side to be too small for me. (This is not good when I panic in BF3!) The two thumb-buttons on the SAVU are bigger and placed so that I don´t need to move my thumb up when pushing them. I´ve got "normal" sized hands. 

Btw; regarding the 3 TB disk you´re planing to install, remember to convert it to GPT

https://teksyndicate.com/forum/windows/unallocated-partition/147195

 

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Thank you guys so much for the responses, yeah I got the cuda cores confused with the gpu lol

I AM plannig to do heavy editing and lots of rendering so that's why I have chosen Intel instead of AMD.

I will most probably get more gpus so thats why I have chosen 850 watts.

Will I still have to convert to GPT if it's under 3TB?

I am getting a kingston hyper x3k ssd for fav games and os and programs.

 

 

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I´ve been told that all disks above 2,2 TB has to be converted to GPT

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Moniter - 120hz BenQ XL2420T 24 inch Widescreen LED

Keyboard - Razor Black widow 2013

Mouse - Razor Death Adder 2013

I recommend getting an IPS monitor, for example Dell U2312HM. It will be completely fine for gaming and it has way better color reproduction and viewing angles compared to TN panels, which should be important to you. 

Don't buy Razer Blackwidow. It's one of the worst mechanical keyboards out there. Get a CM Quickfire if you want a cheap decent mechanical keyboard. Also, decide which switches to get. Razer are markets Blackwidow as a gaming keyboard but it has blue switches that are for typing (it still would be fine for gaming because you probably don't play keyboard intensive games)

DA is a good mouse but I personally don't like that a 80-dollar mouse has a mechanical wheel encoder. I have a feeling that they all break sooner or later. I recommend Logitech G400 for big hands and Zowie AM or FK for small hands. 

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Yeah and It only takes 1sec to do that, which is nice.

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The Razer Blackwidow 2013 is a good keyboard and key switches are down to personal preference.

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Side note on the RAM. When buying RAM for editing the prevailing concern is Cas Latency, Cl as is seen on the articles, so if you do have all of that money to throw around try getting faster (mhz) ram with a decent Cas then underclocking it for a better Cas Latency. Just a thought. 

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Nope. There was a thread about blackwidow issues not too long ago 

https://teksyndicate.com/forum/other-hardware/my-experience-razer-peripherals/146656

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You forgot the stereo/ headphones.   Gamming is not much fun without one.

 

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Not the same keyboard + people on the same thread saying they haven't had any problems with their Blackwidows. A quick google search and I found problems with the keyboards you recommended aswell must also be one of the worst.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoYpXoGPcr4

One of the worst mechanical keyboards based on that? Wow... 

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Everything that is mass produced has some faulty products. Estimations from google search results don't say that quickfire of blackwidow have different fault rates. 

As mechanical switches are same in every keybord, there's not much that a manufacturer can do wrong. In case of Blackwidow, it has wobbly stabilizers, which is a relatively big issue. And doesn't have NKRO, for that matter. Considering that the price is almost the same, why choose blackwidow? The point is, pretty much every mechanical keyboard will be better than blackwidow. 

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"10 key roll-over" http://www.razerzone.com/gaming-keyboards-keypads/razer-blackwidow-2013 I don't usually type with my face but when I do I use less than 10 keys at a time. Btw it works without activating "gaming mode" self experience (I own the Ultimate 2013)

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Doesn't look like you need much help, your system is almost perfect...So I'll just give some opinions. Since you live in the UK...Amazon.co.uk/overclockers.co.uk, best retailers in the world...Let's go:

CPU/Mobo > Nothing much to say. I do find the TUF series are a bit spartan for the price, but I collect their Mobos...so, go figure. Better equipped Mobos for the money from MSI/ASRock.

GPU > MSI 770 Lightning. A bit expensive, but trades punches with the GTX780's, and has a switch for even higher overclocks, without voiding the factory guarantee...Waitin on two from Caseking.de...

RAM > Haswell resolves this situation...I've managed 3000mhz, without any effort. The new memory controller on Intel Haswell chips is pure genius...Something they got right. Buy 1866mhz memory from a good brand and you should be able to overclock it to hell, and back. If money is not an issue get a 2400mhz kit, it will run perfectly on Haswell. I have heard that Haswell only works well with 1.5v, but in my experience have not seen this, and have had no issues with RAM voltage (Corsair/Kingston/Crucial/Patriot/ADATA kits).

SSD > I would try to get a bigger one, those 120gb are going to get eaten up really fast, especially if you install your video/photography editing software on them. I personally use Crucial M4 (50% discount at Amazon.co.uk). Also use a 1TB SSD as a scratch drive for CAD/Video/Photo software, because my time is more important than money, and we want to shoot more, and wait as little time possible on the editing side of things. In "real world" scenarios you will not notice much difference in speeds, and Crucial SSD's are probably the most reliable.

HDD > Yes, that one...Avoid, at all costs, anything with "Green" in the label. On second thought, just avoid anything that remotely reminds you of green. Great choice.

CASE > Too personal for me to give you an opinion...Both your choices will serve you well.

COOLING > Since you are going with the sabertooth you should have no issues. I could go for hours on this subject, mainly due to the fact that I prefer air to water cooling. That said, some Z87 Mobos are built for water cooling, my beloved MSI Mpower Max being one of them, and the H100i is very, very good. If you go air, Noctua, Silver Arrow, Phantecs, or Be Quiet!. I am loving my H100is, with Noctua fans...But like you rightly stated, water cooler are good at cooling the CPU, they fall short at cooling the surrounding area (old Northbridge/RAM)...However both the TUF series, and MSI, are built, and tested, to work with no airflow...Go with the Corsair H100i, it is very good, and will avoid other issues with your system (memory clearance)...Besides, the NZXT is epic for airflow...Problem solved ;)

PSU > Never used that series, generally opt for the AX series, but I'm sure it is very good. The watts are fine for another GPU, no worries there. I would just suggest you checking out the Seasonic Platinum Series, and the epic Be Quit! Dark Power Pro 10 850W Platinum (built by Seasonic, but engineered by the Germans). Your Corsair is a very good choice, and will allow, easily, for an addition of another GPU.

Monitor > First part of your build I don't like. The colors are too "washed" for my taste. I would, obviously recommend an IPS panel. If you are going to be editing Photos, and Movies, you need a very accurate color reproduction. Personally I use NEC Spectraview 271/ NEC PA301W (a bit expensive, but the best for work). Recently, I bought 4 "Pixel Perfect"  YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Monitor, and they are amazing...Really...Awesome ($380 from ebay seller green-sum/ arrived in perfect condition in just four days...And they are really Perfect Pixel, I ran every test known to man).

Of course, if it's just for gaming...

Keyboard > Typing on a Black Widow now...

So you can confidently build your PC...All your choices are very good.

As for the RAM, don't worry about it. Like I said Haswell as resolved the previous issues that existed with high mhz kits...As long as you stick with the good quality brands, you should have no issues. I would just like to call your attention to the Crucial Ballistix Tactical 2x8 kit...In more than two decades of PC assembling, and modding, rarely have I been blown away by such an over performing part...This kit goes like crazy, and it's also very cheap...it must be played with to be believed. Crucial has really stepped up their game.

Hope this helped, apparently WW3 has broken off in the building I am in (hate condos/apartments) so I am sorry for any inconsistencies...It's hard to concentrate through all the screaming.

Have a nice, and carefree, build.

Cheers.

    

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I stand by what I said, invest in a better graphics card. For that price, you're going to be let down with a meager 760 and 4770k.