I heard a mention on the show of how Comcast modems force people to have a "public" WiFi that could compromise security and lead to some other problems such as slower internet speeds. Logan said he replaced his, but I dont remember what type of modem he mentioned using (if he even specified).
I use my internet to: study online school videos, play many different video games, watch streaming twitch video, video conferencing, netflix, youtube, etc.
I use private internet access...for securing financial transactions...Should I use something else (in adition too PIA/ replacement of PIA)?
Please provide any resources that could help me learn how to secure my internet to a standard that an everyday person would need to protect against fraud or invasive practices of ISPs designed to data-mine my online activities.
That's true about the new Comcast modem/routers. To replace your modem, just get a Motorola SURFboard, they also have a model that includes a router if you need it. PIA is good, that is what I use, it protects you from the ISP viewing your traffic and inserting tracking code into your packets. You can set it up on your router so that is always on and works for all devices on your network.
this is what I use right now its 10/100/1000 has 8 channels down 4 lanes up 300mbps up 100mbps dl
If you really wanted to be secure you should set up a pfSense machine and set it up where the whole network is attached to PIA. Then you don't have to run software on all your devices, it automatically tunnels it all through the VPN. pfSense also has a handful of other advantages over a normal router.
That is in their all in one wifi-router / modems ....
I would recommend buying your own Motorolla Surf Board 6121 or 6141 docsys 3.0 modem and your own wifi router with gigabit ports ... cheaper in the long run and no Comcast shenanigans.
here is a list of supported modems for Comcast
Make you aren't required to use it for TV. I wanted to replace my FiOS router, but they said since I got TV, a Verizon router was required. Does anyone know if this is true?
I'm assuming you need a modem+router, because if you just get a modem you
can just hook up one wired device. Purchasing a separate router and modem
gives you more flexibility and upgrade options down the road (the current
generation of DOCSIS 3.0 modems will not be outdated anytime soon, while
routers get outdated more frequently) however a single device is cheaper up
front, and easier to deal with.
Usually I would recommend Motorola for a cable modem but their newer ones
with built in wireless have major firmware bugs due to their merger with
Arris. The Motorola modems that don't have built in WiFi are fine. I've been
using my SB6120 (now an outdated model) for years and it gets pushed hard
every day no problem and I got it used. Oh, and don't buy a used cable modem
:) Not being a hypocrite just saving you a ton of BS because if the previous
customer didn't remove it from their Comcast, Cox, TWC, etc. account you
can't register it to your account and you have something that isn't even
heavy enough to be a good doorstop or paperweight.
Here would be my recommendation for a cost effective all in one unit.
I see on Amazon that there are several third-party sellers that have it for
a few cents cheaper than Amazon directly but I'd recommend paying the
difference and buying it from Amazon.com directly for the easiest returns if
it shows up dead (it happens) or doesn't work well. That option is on the
right side under "Other Sellers on Amazon" for $122.99.
If you wanted to go with the separate modem and router here are my
recommendations. As I mentioned above the main benefit to going separate is
having greater control over the features of the router and flexibility of
upgrading the router without buying a new modem as well. It's just
significantly more expensive and usually a bit overkill. Sure, you
could get the nice modem and a really cheap wireless router but then you may
as well stick with the crap Comcast gives you.
If you do buy anything please keep in mind that you'll need to provide
Comcast the hardware address aka "MAC Address" (nothing to do with Mac
computers) of the modem so they can activate it on your account.
Hope this is helpful!
PS: Comcast's modem list is a good start but it's not the definitive guide to buying a modem some people think it is.
Verizon FiOS is a combination of VDSL and fiber - it's similar to AT&T's U-Verse service. Comcast, which the OP seems to be using, uses a DOCSIS 3.0 cable network. You can not use any other modem than the ISP provided one on AT&T U-Verse or Verizon FiOS.
I like this idea. I have heard them mention that on the show. I am not very educated so I would need some resources to teach me how, but I am very interested.
Thanks for taking the time to write all that information out.
Also the links help.
Previously I had a MOTOROLA SB6141 connected to a NETGEAR WNDR3700-100NAS using both the D-Link DWA-556 and ASUS PCE-N53 adapters for reception.
I had tons of connection problems trying to use wireless (my house is made of wifi blocking materials...prolly asbestos in the walls)
Then my SB6141 died after several months of simultaneous XBOX 360, PC gaming, torrents, and streaming video. I failed to redeem a warranty replacement in time because I forgot about it. I put it with all my other dead electronics in the closet.
Now I use a Coboc 100 ft. 23AWG Cat 6 to a D-Link DGS-1008G Gigabit Desktop Switch with Rosewill RCW-720 14ft. /Network Cable Cat 6 to my PC.
1st ever PC build specs
CPU – Intel Core i5-3570K
CPU Cooling - Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (CM fan replaced with a Noctua NF-F12 PWM 120mm Case Fan) XIGMATEK PTI-G4512 Paste
Case fans - (4) COUGAR CF-V12H
Motherboard – ASRock Z77 Extreme3 LGA 1155 Intel Z77
RAM – G.SKILL Sniper 8GB
GPU – ASUS GTX650TI Boost
PSU – Cooler Master GX - 650W
Case – RAIDMAX Helios modded to hell ( created brackets for fan to sit on top/rear of case)
SSD - SAMSUNG 840 EVO
HDD – 1TB WD blue
Monitor – HPw2338h
OS – Windows 7 64bit