My brothers monitor has been dying and is now dead, it blew a capacitor. We can fix it but getting the correct capacitor is not easy here and will take time.
On the other hand we have some capacitors but they are a different capacitance value. We are not sure if they can be used in place and wanted to ask first.
The old blown one was 25v 150uf
The ones we have are 25v 100uf and 220uf
Thanks for any help in advance.
A larger cap should be fine. I wouldn’t use a smaller one tho.
Make sure the temp on the new cap meets or exceeds what’s on the old one.
BTW, do you have the model # of the dead cap and replacement caps. Just for general curiosity
Good call I will check, and sure in will have a look but I don’t expect them to be anything super awesome just cheapo home gamer caps, stuff that just happened to be lying around in a parts drawer.
Thanks @SgtAwesomesauce too, I had it in my head that a larger value was okay but was not sure if I just remembered something wrong and wanted to make sure.
Capacitors are like water towers. (yes, I know this is a simplification) They store energy for when there’s demand that the line cannot satisfy on it’s own.
Just replace it with a same or larger capacity and you’re golden.
So thethe new one is rated 85c and the old one 105c… If it does nit work out at least we know the problem and what to replace.
The new one
The old one
Not sure any of that is model numbers.
Side note my soldering iron is shit. Or at least the actual iron, the tips are just not getting the heat properly.
This depends very much on what the cap is being used for. If it’s signal filtering changing the capacitance can change the attribute in a huge way. Or a switching regulator may change its output if the cap is on a feedback pin. If it’s simply to smooth the output after a bridge rectifier then a larger capacitance would probably be fine.
A higher voltage rating is almost always fine however.
^This
Hey everybody, just getting back to say, it worked! montior is working again. Thank for the help.
Thanks for putting me in my place 
I’m by no means good at electronics, I just made the assumption that it was for output smoothing.
This video isn’t focused on capacitance changes, but it does mention it.
Real world example of changing capacitance at 3:16. It’s a bit extreme, but a possibility. Take this thread for example, a capacitance change seems fine at this time 
As others have said, yeah, generally you’re fine with changing caps and going with larger capacities, except for circuitry which bases their timings around the caps. However, those caps don’t go bad frequently. Generally, it’s the output caps which goes bad, and those you can go with a higher capacitance most of the time.
Try to go with a low-esr cap as well, just to be sure. It’s a minor increase in price, but are of better quality
Yup gonna need to change that cap anyway. The monitor worked last night but not today. Gonna see if I can get a correct cap this time and I need to order a RasPi zero any way so it won’t be too bad.
Other wise just a few caps was a relatively insane amount of money because shipping.
Somewhat random, but actually one of my monitors died this morning, and I’m pretty confident it’s the output caps, because the power button turns on and off at periodic intervals.
Coincidence? I think not! This is fate!
Somewhat like this?
Timestamped
Wtf is with all the weird coincidences today… This was on my YouTube recommendations early today as well. Fucking creepy.
BTW, yeah that’s what it does, but only for the power LED. The backlight (CCFL) and LCD stays off.
As explained in the video, that indicates the “boot strap”-section of the PSU failed.
The capacitor on the PSU control chip gets charged via resistor to a level where the chip starts up. That chip then tries to kick the “main PSU” into action but before it gets power, the capacitor is empty.
Possible Fix:
Such a specific reply!
I’ll reply to you when I have some time to fix it. Thanks Maze
soldering iron tips tend to corrode or build up a little carbon between the element and the tip.
most pencil iron tips are replaceable.
mine screw in on some irons and my heavy duty one the tip is held in place with a set screw.
anyway remove the tips and clean them with fine grit sandpaper or emery cloth.
clean out the element hole GENTLY with the emery cloth. and put the tip back in…
anyway soldering electronics is not hard providing you follow a few guidelines.
(I actually wrote a slideshow presentation at work on proper soldering techniques) I just have to remember where i put the file 
I will give that all a go, the exact problem is heat transfer into the tip. It was a “okayish” no name (level pro) soldering station. The lead and tip that came with it was not a perfect shape (medium fine point) but I desoldered and soldered 3 keyboards with it. I got new tips in chunkier shapes but rather than be better with heat transfer they are far worse.
