If you order stuff like the tiny85 from a jameco.com or lcsc.com (if you can wait on the shipping from china) you can get them significantly cheaper and without the pesky board: https://www.jameco.com/z/ATTINY85-20PU-Atmel-Microchip--ATtiny85-Microcontroller-8-Pin-PDIP_2151312.html
Pardon me, but how is this relevant to this thread?
I genuinely thought this was spam.
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DIY Lighting overhaul
Am currently looking at the parts I have for my DIY lighting.
I now also have the L-profiles to put the LEDs into.
Plan looks like this:
Have two barrel sockets so I can feed power through, then a switch followed by a capacitor for smoothing.
And then there is the 7 groups of 3 LEDs. Fed from a 12V PSU (because they are common and cheap).
Anyone here using Ledcalc.com whenever you need to figure out the resistor value before the LED? Here is how to do it manually:
Us = 12V ← Voltage from the PSU
Uf = 3V ← Voltage drop per LED
Ur = ? ← Voltage to apply Ohm’s law to
If = 16mA ← will still be spotlights
x = 3 ← Number of LEDs in series
R = ? ← The Resistance you are looking for
The magical formulas:
Ur = Us - (x* Uf)
R = {Ur \over If}
Replace Ur with the formula and get:
R = {Us - (x* Uf) \over If}
Stick some values into it:
R = {(12V - (3* 3V)) \over 0.016A}
R = {(12V - 9V) \over 0.016A}
R = {3V \over 0.016A}
R = 187.5 {V \over A}
And instead of writing V \over A (not to be confused with VA), we write \Omega
R = 187.5 \Omega
187.5 Ohm is not an easily available resistance, so just use the next step up (220 Ohm) for 13.6mA current through your LEDs.
Lastly, you need to know how much power the resistor is going to see. 1/8 Watt is probably fine, to be sure:
?W = Ur * If
In my case, this is 41mW, or a 3rd of the load a 1/8W resistor can take.
Lastly, the drawing of what I intend to build:
The LEDs in the group should be so close I can just solder one leg to the next, not sure what I am going to do to link the groups.
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DIY Ligthing
Sanity check:
(yes those are 3 LEDs on the breadboard)
Holes drilled (all 21 for the LEDs, the 2 for the barrel sockets, the switch and 2 for the rivets)
Sanity check No 2
I call this image:
I realy should have a bench
Also: Soldering done
And done!
Only took two hours start to finish. As I did not set my soldering station to 3x, I will have to make the other two later…
It does not look bright in the photo, but this is 4W (I think), and I kind of regret not giving the LEDs less current.
This is it installed. Now my displayed items shelf has nice warm, almost jank-free lighting.
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non-techy suggestion here, diffuse the light on those LEDs, photography and blender have taught me harsh light is no bueno
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Good suggestion, I have no idea how to put this into practice.
Sanded plexi? Like 600 or 800 grit.
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i agree on plexi. Is a common trick also used to “bend” light, and even without sanding could give enough diffusion to look good.
if you end up with issue managing the heat, mount the LED strip on a aluminum strip to act as heat sink, but i think your mounting has already enough spread
Should still have some arround, can try.
I don’t.
I run the LEDs at a conservative 16mA (see post 24), the voltage drop per LED is in spec and they don’t get fed any funky waveforms.
Why would I mount the Aluminium L-Profile on more aluminium?
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Try without sanding first, to see if you need to sand it.
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you could use a sand blaster to pit one side of the plexiglass or use what i use the diffuser panel from an old laptop screen (good way to recycle)
DIY Lighting
All 3 bars done!
I deviated from the plan to hang a pair next to the SC2 poster and instead put one on the left next to the Overwatch poster (which I would like to replace, different topic)
Had to stitch two images together to make this fit. Is about as bright but a bit colder than it is in reality.
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holy crap got enough headphones there bud
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yes…?
List
- AudioTechnica ATH-AD500x (first real readphone, not gaming crap)
- AudioTechnica M40X (needed a closed back for monitoring tasks)
- AKG K-712 Pro (hidden under desk)
- Fostex T50RP MKiii (wanted to know what the interest was about)
- Koss Porta Pro (needed a portable one, and I hate in ears)
- Panasonic RP-HD10 (just curiousity)
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I had the headphones logan-the-5-head recommended once, my mom’s dog ate them
whats the cool looking stuff on top of the shelf
The one with the plastic cube?
Items from my life so far. Toys, a piece of my sand box, an anemometer I made in school, souveniers from various places, wristbands from LAN-parties, a music box, etc.
Honestly, deserves a lot more love and care than all the items recieve.
Below that, are some more items and an assortment of my favourite games.
And then it is just books, loads of them.
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I am the Swarm 
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Halp?
I am looking for an Oscilloscope.
I don’t deal with terribly high frequencies (I2C is probably the highest clocking protocol I dabble with).
At uni I have used higher end Keysight and older CRT based HP scopes.
In short, I don’t care about the brand unless it tries to blow my face off.
Rigol DS1054Z looks good, 4 Channels, 1M Samples, extremely good intensity graded display. FFT is said to be slow-ish though.
GW-Instek GDS-1054B also looks good. Has dedicated knobs per channel (which I like a lot), same sample rate with the same halving when using all 4 channels and is said to have a damn fast FFT.
The “OpenWave”-thingy to look at the scope via network is probably also present on the Rigol?
Keysight? maybe? Dunno. Don’t seem to be available in the EU (or at least I haven’t found a licensed retailer).
Siglent SDX 1202X-E Only 2 channels (the 4 channel version breaks the budget), looks to have another good intensity grading, dedicated knobs per channel (like) and I think the biggest display out of the bunch. I have not realy looked into it much because knowing me, 2 channels will not last long.
Nonames & Used Eh?
When I spend 350 to 430€, I want a known quality manufacturer behind that product. I’d rather not have a “PeakTech” “Uni-T” or whatever else brand there may be.
Same for used. I don’t have the knowledge to fix a semi-broken scope in half a year. So I’d rather stay away from ebay-scopes.
yeah
also consider hackability, some can be reprogrammed and you will get much better performance (aka: are better model with limit in firmware). I know some rigol does that
(i think they leak those on purpose, after all hobby market is little and professional wont hack as support is more important than short term cash)
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