With only a NUC inside you would need next to no modification to make it fit. Only the backplates for the ports, like here.
The Asus PN50 or AsRock 4x4 would be better as they have 4000u
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That is slick AF!
Yeah they would be better, that is just the example I had to hand, I have not looked into them a lot as my intel NUC is doing just fine for now.
Now staring at old original xbox…lol
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I just built this to learn linux better on to then get back to the proxmox home server project I have going. lol
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Didn’t post update for some time. That is because I fucked up. My first white paint was perfect, sat undisturbed for one week. But was impatient and a little bit worried about the diminishing number of days warm enough to paint.
So I applied a clear coat on a humid day, which caused the paint to react on the edge where it was more porous. Had to scrape the paint (except for the disk cover).
Redo last weekend, and it’s fair enough, except the bottom part where I was lazy and only sanded instead.
Still have to wait to buy hdplex 200W and PN50 before progressing further with anything. And I’m thinking of returning the 3400G I got for instead trying to get a 4650GE or 4600GE
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get a load of this
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Probably will do that for the yellowed grey parts
HDPlex and PN50 4500u were supposed to be in stock in late october, last Friday of the month and still nothing.
grrrrr
Did a little progress on the Gamecube case working on it a little bit intermittently. With spot putty, now the outside is smooth, and will finish smoothing out and level the flooring inside. The inside base will be painted to have it clean, just need to find how I can paint now that it is cold outside.
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Bought and received surprisingly fast my Asus PN50 4500u. Yeah! Still have no SSD and ram to test it. So I said I would wait before disassembling it. So I let you imagine what happened. Ya I already tear it down. 
Tearing it down was kind of tedious and a little bit challenging. Had to go slowly. In short, it required opening the case, removing the plastic io cover, disconnecting all the cables, removing the lightly glued microphone boards, removing the power button and led assembly by trying to shove the motherboard to the rear io side, then slowly propping up the board from the front io side with the plastic hook in the ifixit (using the mounting holes) while trying to clear the front io off the case.
But I done it at last. And now I realize I will have some work to do in order to figure out which among the 4 cables of the power button and assembly are for the power signal (I do thing it’s the red and black though). Also do somebody know what is the specific name of those small connectors? Will need to buy some.
To my knowledge those pictures are the first and only pictures of a disassembled PN40, PN50 or PN60 on the internets.
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Well…
So first I finished some days ago leveling the inside floor.
And today I painted as right now we have like a small indian summer in November, a first, it was 16C today.
And then I played around test fitting the build, during which I noticed several obstacles. First, there is no way that an HDPLEX would fit inside here, too thick. So thought of maybe getting a custom G-UNIQUE instead.
But then problem #2, there is no way I can power the GPU, as the only orientation I can put it has the power connector directly next to the Gamecube connectors. I can not even go connectorless with the cables directly into the connector as I thought I would do because there no space at all.
I could always resolder the connector on the back, but not really warm to the idea. So I think I would just acquire a dirt cheap 1650 and wait for the 3050 that would probably have performance around the 2060. Also going that route, I will have only the cable riser to power, which will greatly simplify the delivery system and require only a cheap picopsu.
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I’m loving this project.
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Paint day today. It’s so wild 15C in November. The climate is becoming more and more fuck up. The paint job is really nice I’m happy of it. Will let it dry and harden for two days before playing with it.
The handle will stay black, and the cover io will be painted way down the line when all the modif would have be done to it, probably next spring?
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Updates: Some good and some bad
Worked on it yesterday. Ya I didn’t listen to my 2 days before touching it. Assembled the Gamecube looked really nice.
Tested all the components and everything works fine. And Windows 10 installation was quick.
I noticed there is a port on the motherboard labelled USB4 which appears in the bios, and now I’m wondering if I could use for the power sync instead of doing some modif to the laptop fan cable.
Disassembled furthermore the PN50 to salvage the wifi antennas. They’re kind of strange as one is pretty much only a sheet metal. Was expecting to have two little antenna bearing PCBs like in the ASUS shark fin.
Assembled everything in the Gamecube using hot glue for the moment (maybe will stay there if it does the job). Cut a small section inside to gain a mm or 2 of clearance for the ATX pins. It is now solidly in place as it’s kind of slotted in.
The so tiny SSD is just flopping in there with some cushion pads thinghy that was on the rear io. Did longer cables and cable managed for the included microphones and microsd port (even if I’m not gonna use them) and soldered a temporary power button.
Also, I looked at that and I will just remove the Gamecube stock controllers port and simply put a Gamecube adapter there. The one used by Madmorda in her Gamecube Switch Dock as the same spacing than on the Gamecube and it’s just compact in one board (but would not solve the GPU power connector issue), instead of trying to fiddle with the Gamecube stock ports.
I discovered also that pretty much all the picopsu, aside the hdplex, only accept 12V input only, so I need a 12V power adapter for the GPU. Was already looking to acquire a second power adapter as pretty much all power adapters over 90W are 19.5V and not the 19V, and would probably fry my PN50. Just that the mismatch of voltage kinda suck, wanted to have the same looking Asus power adapter in the 90W variant for the GPU. Think will be buying all the last components tonight, except for the GPU because I still have to find a dirt cheap one.
It is insane how costs in this project just skyrocket 
The usb c to a adapter, pico psu, 12V power adapter and Gamcube adapter will be shy of 80$ alone.
For the bad news, noticed I use the past tense right at the beginning. Well it’s because I was moving the upper section and I dropped it and now it’s scuffed 
There is no real way to really fix it without removing the paint and painting it all over again. So I think I will find some stickers to cover the scuffs in the meantime. Will probably paint it next spring, and maybe a different colour as Sunrise is kind of a little in your face when all over the Gamecube. Maybe I could consider getting a spray gun 
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I really like the color
have you thought about wiring up USB ports to the Memory card slots
No, and I don’t think I would need it really and it would be lot of hassle for nothing. With my monitor being already use as a usb hub, I just 3 usb ports, and the fourth and fifth will be free ones.
Well I did some change to my plan.
I finally accepted that I would not be able to use my dear GTX 1660 ti, or at least not without some serious expenses and challenges. Still have to find a 1650 or 1050ti though.
Received the Gamcube adapter, but need to return it because it doesn’t work. It’s detected by the pc, but no input received whatsoever. But still disassembled it to see if it would fit the bill and yes. The fact that it would allow for some clearance below the ports mean that the PCB of a 1050 or 1650 would fit underneath up to the circular heatsink and would give the precious millimeters I need so the card doesn’t interfere with the back panel.
Second I did some modifications to the inside of the Gamecube by cutting a hole. That way the cpu cooler can ft so I can flip the board, have the exhaust align with the original Gamecube exhaust, and simplify a lot the process of removing parts with everything easily accessible. Also, it simplifies so much the run of the pcie adpater and gives me some clearance needed to fit the GPU.
Easy access to all the cables means also that I was now able to secure the ssd instead of having it flip flop inside.
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Received stuff. That 12V power brick sounds hollow never had that before.
In short right now I’m fucked, because to my understanding, the Add2PSU syncs with the 12V signals. I assumed that the fan connector on the PN50 had a 12V lead, but I just discovered it doesn’t have one. The highest voltage on any connector on the PN50 is 5V. And I tried to sync with 5V maybe but to no avail.
So now I have to do more thinking what I can do (that project has been thinking) and I posted a question on sff network in case somebody has a solution for me over there. At least the Gamecube adapter works this time.
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Didn’t received any answer on sff network, but I have a solution that I thought at the beginning that I will probably use at the end.
But first I wanted to know if the GPU on the NVME would work first. So used the PSU jumper included with my mom’s pc psu and it worked right away. Just had to install nvidia drivers to remove some initial sloppiness.
Testing right now to see the limits. Run Dirt on High and everything run well except a massive frame drop at the beginning and later during the run. Unigine benchmark however no issue to be seen. Running Time Spy.
So I think it will only be a matter to provide adequate airflow to the cpu fan in order to don’t choke it and be cpu bottleneck.
And to solve the issue of syncing power, I would just use two power buttons. One for the PN50 and one for the picoPSU. And the Gamecube OG powrr button stay depressed, which means the gate is close up to the point when the button is pressed again, allowing to trick the picopsu by shorting the 2 pins. And I would use the reset button to power on the PN50.
Simplest solution I found 
just gonna be strange to have to press two buttons to power the pc… and not forgetting to press one when I shut it down…
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