And fuck why did I had the idea to sleeve a flex psu. Took me two days and was not really fun. Already at the beginning my prep was wrong because I inverted the order of my mobo cables which would had required a spin in order to connect to the mobo. So had to redo that.
I kind of cheaped out on the crimper again, but at least now it was the right variants for psu connectors. Still the crimps were not the best. And sleeving was so difficult. Everything is so cramped. Wanted to use heat shrink tubes, but was not working really well and on the psu side trying to apply heat I melted a little bit some plastic things of the psu… So at the end just secured the sleeves with knots.
Ant the idea to desolser the unuse cables went of the window because I was never able to melt the solder they use.
I’ve not tested if everything is fine and working properly, I need to vacuum inside the psu before turning it on. And will widen the opening at the back of the psu.
So I thought I did something wrong because when I plugged the PSU and turned it on the fan was not spinning. Fun fact: PSU fan header deliver 4.3V at idle, but the Noctua NF-A4x10 only begin to spin at 6V. All the voltages of the pins were correct. Created an additional opening for the mobo cable.
Now to try to put that in the case, well it was a really tight fit. The power button is not in the best location IMO, would have preferred to have it behind at the top. Had to smash stuff a little bit to be able to close the case. The mobo cable is doing a clean run but everything is camped right where the cables come out.
But now my PC is working!!! (I was doubting myself a little bit) Ran 3D mark for a quick test and no stability problem whatsoever. Now I have to figure out at last how to make that logo shiny and to measure the consumption.
Tried today to get a shiny logo. 3 layers of black plastidip and 6 layers of mirror finish paint, and… well it didn’t turn that well. Don’t know what to do now.
Is that piece metal? Could grab some brasso and give it a hand polish a couple of times.
If its plastic, make sure you are sanding in between the coats (400 to 600) so the next coat can fill in the small micro imperfections.
Basically sanding in between every coat.
On the later coats, I would recommend wet sanding with 1000 to 1600 grit in between the last couple of coats.
That would be a good idea. I would not sand the case because I want to keep it intact for future resell. However, my main grip is less about the texture and more about the finish. Could not remove the vinyl decal without ripping all the paint off, which required me to cut with an exacto which produced a rough edge. And the plastidip is thick and just make the painting job look like a sticker.
Ahh I see now, could head down to your local hardware store and look for some sheet metal.
Hopefully you can get a small square for the size you need (and maybe a few more for practice or perfection). Cut that to design you want and polish that little piece with brasso and secure it with some adhesive.
Received this week my last LED strip, so the build is pretty much completed. Didn’t redo the logo as it is at the end fine and would wait for the summer if I make any other modification. May make any change down the road, but right now it i how I will rock it.
No it’s just the case that is like that. It is in the case that you don’t use a GPU, you can retreat the mobo to have a bigger CPU cooler (and then you have a metal bracket to cover the hole right to the IO).
And maybe later I will use that weird gap to later on move the power button there if I find a way to hide the hole in the front with a logo or something to have a cleaner aesthetic.
They really should include an extra panel to cover that up there are holes, I like how it can beset up for an APU with being pushed down but seems like a pretty weak oversight