“Not ready” usually means that the car hasn’t run long enough to perform self-diagnostics since it’s last complete power loss (e.g. battery disconnected). It figures itself out after driving for a while.
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I’d better get driving then. This thing needs a new battery, badly. It’s so old the sticker that tells you how old it is has partially rotted off, lol.
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If I remember correctly it’s usually at least 100 miles for the car to run its tests, but I’ve always been told you should really plan on at least 200 miles of mixed driving for everything.
I think Advance Auto and/or Napa offer free battery testing. Dead batteries are not fun.
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Shouldn’t cause any issues, no.
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Yeah, so get a battery for it and drive it for a whole tank and hopefully that will be fine.
Plans for the brakes? They’re super easy and are low hanging fruit.
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The brakes seem to work okay, they’re just really really deep. It’s either the pads (?) or the brake fluid - would not be surprised if it were either but it seems more likely that it’s the brake fluid itself - it doesn’t look like it’s been changed or flushed in a very long time.
I promised pictures.
General pictures of it actually, really, properly, physically at my house, at long bloody last.
The Leaky Oil pan of Rust and of Imminent Replacement
the Rear Differential and Muh Rusty Rear Sway Bar, Doe
Muh Engine Bay - home to an EJ205 and colony of ants living in the rubber rain seal (can you see them?)
The dying-horribly battery
The turbo
It’s hard to get a stylish engine bay in a subaru because of all the wires and hoses on top.
I will take more pictures of the various parts when I get it home and we actually have some decent weather
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That’s why I don’t like 180 degree engines. They just look so odd. That said, there’s nothing more odd than a Rotary. (Which I aspire to own some day)
Yeah, replace that thing. It’s over 10 years old.
Definitely give that engine bay a good clean. Looks okay, but it can look much better with some proper cleaning!
Brake fluid in the reservoir typically darkens quickly in older cars. No harm in doing a flush though.
If you don’t already, you should make a record that has all your service records and history of what you do to the car. It’s important to keep track of what you’re doing to your car.
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The rust actually doesn’t look that bad for here up north. Could obviously be better, but I’ve also driven much worse lol.
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The brake lines look good then?
To be fair, they’re not the best pictures and I didn’t get any of many other parts of the car (I have no jack on hand at work) My main points of worry are the subframe and various parts of the suspension assemblies. I’ll get those pictures in soontm
Fluid Film is your friend.
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Boxer engine bays look so bad.
Congrats on the car!
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@KemoKa73, as your pads wear out it takes more fluid to press them into the rotors, check your pads first as well as rotor thickness and damage (grooves in rotor bad)
As @SgtAwesomesauce says a flush isn’t a bad idea since you live in a damp shithole, brake fluid absorbs moisture/ water over time.
Oh my she’s rough.
that she is. She needs a lot of looooove
it’s what makes a Subaru a Subaru™™™™™™™™
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what are the reputable/ quality wheel brands?
thinking of ditching my stock rims
theres a spiNNING DORITO FOR SALE DOWN THE ROAD
They want too much for it though D:
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Couple simple questions:
Year/make/model
What’s your performance goals/preferred style?
Different wheels are designed for different things.
The wheels I run are ultralights, so they’re designed to reduce unsprung weight, which slightly increases grip on uneven surfaces, but that reduces the ride quality significantly. Heavier OEM wheels are going to keep your ride quality nice, but they don’t always perform/look as nice as others.
rally look without the price, might just pop for some Methods because i’ve more money than sense
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