Multitronics are CVTs, right? I avoid those on all cars because just about every single one seems to be garbage, regardless of brand.
I’ll have to look into the TFSI stuff.
Just an old school tid bit of information for anyone rebuilding a 1972 chevy pickup… If your looking for tilt steering for that bad boy… 1980 chev van tilt steering colum falls right in…
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They have reputation of being called Multi Trauma.
I guess there is a reason for that.
Manny electronical issues with it.
Those are sharp looking cars.
Personally I’m against any auto, so there’s only one option, but I’d want a wagon, so guess I’d wait for something else.
Those are surprisingly affordable. I’ve been looking for a Volvo V70R 6 speed manual, and they’ve all been over 10k except one that I’ve seen.
Why get a new car when you can get a used one. And spend more on a new car than you would on gas. Like a old ford for instance. They have a lot of replacement parts that you can get for cheap. Compared to having to pay a steep price for a new car over and over.
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In general I completely agree, however when it’s an EV it’s a little different. That wagon in that picture is my beater weekend car. The funny thing about that is the EV barely costs me more to run per month (including power, insurance, and payment), plus when I make a payment I don’t lose all that money like buying fuel (I can sell the leaf, can’t say that for used gas). I’ve crunched a lot of numbers (haven’t even talked about the lack of maintenance) and the new-ish EV is practically a free car.
I think I’ll stop there it’s getting kind of long. If you’re legitimately interested, I’d be happy happy to crunch the numbers again with today’s fuel and electricity prices (obviously still with my payments and insurance cost too) for you.
BTW I didn’t buy the EV new. It cost me $7K.
Edit: I could do the math with your local prices too, if you’re interested.
I’m not a huge fan of dogamatics either, but after driving a stick into and/or through the city almost daily for the past five years I’m not entirely against them either.
For Audis my current preferences are A4 sedan >= A3 hatch > A4 wagon. Any of them is still manual > automatic, but Quattro is a must.
The lady in HR at my work linked me this one.
https://www.truecar.com/used-cars-for-sale/listing/WAUFFAFL0AN033534/2010-audi-a4/
That’s a nice looking car. Not a huge fan of tan interiors though.
You can run a diesel engine on fish oil.
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Nah, just their double-clutch auto’s.
That 3.2 A4 is probably my recommendation. My dad has an A5 with the 3.2 in it, and it’s a wonderful engine. A bit lethargic under 2k, but as soon as you get past that magic number, it wakes up.
Not to mention, it’s not a shitty 4cyl.
Damn, That’s something to look into.
I wonder, since it’s fumes, it’s got to run a fair bit more lean than is ideal. That engine sounded pretty rough, considering. I wonder how it would be to drive.
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I’ve actually already looked into this. It’s very interesting and something I want to try, but that particular video is terrible. First off that truck fired right up, but it would have had to fill the air box with fumes, also he never showed you the fuel in the gas can, and when he covered 2 of the 3 intakes it died.
Even if that truck is running on vapors, he didn’t give me enough proof.
This video was the one that got me interested in this.
Video TLDR: It works, but doesn’t seem much better than running straight gas.
I was subscribed to this channel before he released this video, so personally I trust him.
Anyway I love this type of stuff, so thanks for posting it, and I’ll get back to you on your previous reply after work.
Is there any wideband data associated with this sort of thing out there? I know this is sort of the opposite of EFI, but I’m curious to see what sort of ratios this leaves you with.
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Hey, my four cylinder ain’t shitty. It’s just old.
Changed a headlight bulb on the car with one hand today (got a cast) , impressed with myself.
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I’m talking about 4 cylinder’s in general. Don’t like the way they sound.
Not bad. Especially considering they’re usually a pain in the ass to get to.
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Order of operations. Crank, spark, fumes, Ignition. When the engine is cranking it creates a suction. It will also spark to ignite the gas molecules. If there is enough vapor to get fed to the engine then it should be sufficient to start the motor. My only concern is water getting in. But a little water is not going to really do any harm to the engine.
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Hell, some cars even inject water. See BMW m4.
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That’s interesting. I never knew that was possible. My father got heavily into biodiesel, but that turned into a mess, so I’m not overly excited to try something like that, but my ex-manager had a natural gas injection set-up on his Duramax and when I borrowed it to pick up a Volvo S60 (10 hour drive) it got tad over 30mpg towing it though the mountains (end destination was higher then the start). Anyways I was very impressed, so NGI is something I would love to mess around with.
Right. I was assuming that it wouldn’t get enough vapor to start before I watched that video I shared.
I would be interested in this too. I would think you could adjust the A/F ratio by changing up the pipes that agitate the fuel