You were talking about budget options, so that’s why I thought 90s trucks.
BTW: LS swapping is incredible easy and cheep. No need for an new ECU to run all the tech on the engine.
Yea ofcourse. Just my experience with trucks. Not much of a truck guy other then being able to throw a bike in the back. Certainly not going to be making any swaps currently, this is to be a replacement and not a project after all. I still want to do that cadi. So if truck, more just looking for the utility of it rather then anything else. It’ll be driven when the bikes cannot.
Ah, that makes since. You could probably go with a small truck if you not planning on towing any cars. You can fine them for less the a grand (at least here in Idaho), and some get grate MPG.
But then again, if your not towing cars you could get a car. Haha just went full circle. I’d just get whatever is cheep something like a Mazda, Honda, or Toyota. Could also fix your Taurus (man look at how helpful I’m being haha).
Anyway, if you start looking at cars share what deals you find with us, if some of us have owned them in the past we could probably give some info on it.
haha, the most helpful. Yea, the current plan is to see if I can make passable welds on the Taurus for the time being. If I grind’em down, and paint them, so long as I get everything, I shouldn’t have too much trouble passing. That should hopefully get me a few more years. for tomorrow, I have a vtx1800 to get running however and a snowmobile carb to rebuild. Then I can get the taurus in the garage to start removing the carpets and measure everything.
S10 update:
Interesting. There is (what appears to be) a piece of a large allen wrench welded to the lower control arm to prevent the wheels from steering/turning all the way. I think it was to keep aftermarket rims from rubbing, At least that’s the only thing I can come up with.
science!
I will definitelly look arround a bit.
There is allot of stuff for sale.
But sofar Subaru, Nissan, Honda and Suzuki are on my watch list.
Yeah! Suzuki Cappuccino all the way.
Mazda is also pretty reliable indeed.
And the Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 are pretty cool cars.
The only problem is that the 2003 to 2009 models of the Mazda 3 and 6,
are really bad wenn it comes to their rust protection.
Most of the are allready rotten away, which is sad.
Because other then that they are pretty reliable and good looking.
I had a 6, sold it to my brother. It’s kinda boring, but definitely reliable. 2011, between he and I, we put 140 thousand painful miles on it, and it’s still going strong.
Update on the little project Miata that could, it moved under its own power today. I’ve still got to perfect idle, the transition from idle to regular run and startup, but it runs damn smoothly above 1300rpm.
That’s really cool. You’ve got me looking up MS videos again. I might try to lightly boost my S10. It’s that or a 5.3L Vortec swap.
I have 2 of the 4.3s for the s10 now.
I like boost (from a turbo) because you just turn a knob to adjust the amount of power your car makes. You can do anything from just below NA power all the way up to 3x the power. Really, turbo is my preference because it gives you a lot more flexibility. Also, that turbo sound.
If you’ve got 2 engines for it, I’d play with turbo. If you blow one up, you know not to push it that far anymore.
OH, one question. Aluminum block or iron? Aluminum doesn’t take boost too well.
Yes! It’s so great, and you don’t even have to be breaking the law it me them. I miss it so much.
I’d have to rebuild one. I checked one cylinder and it had a whopping 18 psi (iirc) in it.
It’s Iron, and so are the heads.
The 4.3s are 350s minus 2 cylinders, so they share many internal parts. The 4.3L even use Chevy’s V8 Transmissions. I can put a Camaro 6-speed in it if I ditch four-wheel drive.
Ah, yeah. Definitely go turbo then, you’ll be happy with it, plus, you can do it inexpensively if you know someone whos good with a tig.
I beg to differ… In regards to this broad statement.
In my experience, unless the block is specifically designed to take boost, they tend to wind up with more knock.
Should have specified, the aluminum GM blocks don’t do too well with lots of boost.
Yeah the 2009 facelift models and newer are allot better protected against rust.
The Aussies call this a ‘footie’. Good stuff.
