The reason we won’t see that is that boosting the next Z would literally be cannibalizing 50% of their GTR market, a car they already don’t sell that much of.
they should… ( imo they better if they want to revive it)
the GTR will still be AWD… the Z is just RWD.
- They used to have twin turbo Z chassis cars
- the q50 and q60 already have the motor and turbo setup they can just plop into the Z chassis
- just do it
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Jesus man. That was a lot of effort to replace the thermometer housing and return line assembly. Mad a bit of a mess in the garage. With the coolant.
At idle was doing fine. Went for about a 3 mile drive. About half way I see the water temp creeping over 111C so I pull over put my emergency lights on thinking that the thermoatat finally opened up and it was starving for water but nope. Resevoir was at the fill line. Turn the car back on blasted my heater on full temp came back down.
Man I really hate this cars fans waiting until 110 to turn on. It goes as low as 95 which I know is fine since its operating temp but still bugs me.
My Miata did that too. When I got a new ECU, I set the fan threshold to 90c, stays nice and cool now.
Wanted to get a tuner to not only get a bit more horse power but to adjust the fan as well. But seeing as my sister will be buying my car not throwing any more parts into it besides maintenance and preventative maintenance.
Also think I just got some bad gas from 76, used to always go there. Last gassed up at Shell on Tuesday last week. MPG has return to 30 miles to the gallon in city.
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Interesting. Definitely could have been poor quality gas.
So is it good now?
If your still having a problem with over heating then you might have air in the cooling system.
That happened to my S10, and I thought a head gaskets went. Thank goodness it was just air in the cooling system.
So. Incoming book.
update with spoider and bike. Started physical therapy today. It hurt. However I am up to 70degrees of bend and 10degrees straight, with the current goals being 90 and 0 respectivly. so ahead of schedule and making progress.
The bike. After a month of sitting, it started on the third crank with 30f weather. So engines good, looked like a tiny coolant leak. looking at parts I have some options. 55$ to get replacement pegs fron sato racing. fairings (ill leave them be for a good while if i get back to riding) will likely be 400ish$. taillight I have enough spare parts to make do. I have a spare clutch cover. Past me thought future me would be more then 1 year down the road. I remember back then thinking “gl future me on taking this off” as i slathered jbweld over some of the bolts to fill in cracks. LOL. Like the fairings Ill leave it be. doesnt leak or cause problems immediatly.
The exhaust however is banged up pretty good. Id like to replace it. I see two options. A. it seems I can get some cans from Black window in the uk for 400$. essentially a slip on. B. I weld my own. This is where I ask you guys. If i am welding an exhaust how should I approach this in terms of matearial. Ive got mig welding readily availible. Be my fiest time welding pipes and dont expect it to be all that great. grind em down. But what steel? And is there a clear paint? as opposes to making it all black to prevent rust? And then Ill need to flash the bike for a lack of baffle and probably update the vtec to the more modern 06-13 setup.
It (350/370Z) needs an LS in it. Probably lighter/smaller than the DOHC v6 (because pushrods = much smaller heads) and sounds a hundred million times better.
For my truck I plan to buy pre-bent pipe, all the different elbows and angled bits, clamp it together to get just the right fit then weld it.
Something like this https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/exhaust-pipes-individual-bends
Maybe theres something similar for motorcycles.
And for paint, look into header paint. I used duplicolor vht and it worked really well.
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Nah never had over heating issues. Just a really really minor leak. Only notticed it recently when I went to my sisters across town and saw all the fluid in her driveway.
So far so good but I will definitely check under the car tomorrow morning if there is any coolant since I dried the garage floor before I left for work.
Water temp is spec’d to run between 100C and 110C it doesnt boil because its under pressure.
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Yea okie, looks like they do have clear coat headers so that makes it easy. As far as prebent, Ill just have to see radius wise. Im only doing the backpipe to the muffles (which I may just flair the ends and call it a day.) So long as it is the correct diameter shouldnt matter bewteen car or motorcycle. just need to see what differences stainless poses to welding having pnly done mild. 
Points me where to go next. thx mate.
Looks like a bad life choice
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Wait a discussion about Nissan… why no love for a 90’s 300ZX Z32 twin turbo targa? 
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I mentioned it as my evidence for there being a turbo’d Z in the past… so shouldnt be out of the question for the next gen Z…imo
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Nothing against it. I hear it’s pretty quick, but I just don’t have any experience with it.
As someone who fell in love with the shape and very nearly bought one (back in 2002), and had friends with them… you’d be far, far better off with a Supra. Even an MA70 or JZA70. Or at least a non-turbo Z32. I bought an S13 SR20DET 180SX instead.
Unless you like working on cars AND are a masochist, steer clear. There’s no space under the bonnet to work on it, the turbos generate a lot of heat that kills vacuum lines and other under bonnet rubber/plastics, etc. Even 15 years ago they were a maintenance nightmare.
Lovely looking car. I’m sure they’re lovely to drive, too. But if i wanted one, i’d buy an NA Z32 and drop an LS1/2/3 motor in it. Less weight than the VG30 iron block turbo and associated crap, far less complexity, likely more room to work on it, more power and better engine noise. Pretty sure it would fit just fine. An SR20DET (been swapped a few times in japan because its easier to deal with than the VG motor) fits in there which is also 4 cyl long and quite tall, being it is a vertically oriented in-line with a big DOHC head.
#lstheworld, etc. 
Seriously though. V6s sound sad. Twin turbo v6s are very complex and a maintenance nightmare if you aren’t the first owner and sell after 5-7 years.
Happy to report no coolant below the car! Wooooo
I swear that was going on for about a year and a half. The dealer mechanic I took it do didnt find the issue back in the summer. Did get a free new water pump out of it though since it was covered under what ever warranty GM had.
Also new brake pads are installed. Just got to take her for a drive.
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Yeah i agree that a supra is a better choice generally.
But still the 300ZX Z32 is a pretty nice car aswell.
But a supra has more potential yeah.
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Ya don’t say.