Get a car that doesn’t allow tire rotation.
370z.
The fronts are 235 . rears are 275. And the tire tread is directional.
Then slam it and don’t bother fixing the camber like a tard?
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get out
Ehhh in not really into Nizmos. Also I dont want a car that can tempt me to kill myself at the drop of a hat lol.
Not to mention the insurance.
@SudoSaibot oh Lord there is so many of those that go to the Buffalo Wild Wings in the same shopping center where I work.
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I dont have a nismo… sport trim gives you LSD, ability to turn off traction control and upgraded brakes.
Full coverage for me is only about 125/month
Well went to Orileys and picked up the return and thermostat housing. Comes with a new thermostat and bolts. Also got some new ceramic brake pads. Probably skip gym tomorrow and do it all.
Thoughts on reusing radiator fluid after draining?
Or a Benz e350 Coupe, 245 front 295 rear, not directional, but it makes for good smokey burnouts.
Well RIP my car if it is the piston rings but now my 2003 Pontiac Sunfire is misfiring. It has a fairly rough Idle, I can smell unburned fuel in the exhaust, and it has little to no power upon pressing the accelerator. I’ve already checked the oil for coolant and started it with the radiator cap off to check for combustion gasses so it is most likely not the head gasket but other than that it could still be a lot of things.
Coil on Plug or plug wires? I’d start by checking all of that.
I wouldn’t start by assuming it’s piston rings.
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Maybe the coolant temperature sensor is bad and causing it to spray too much fuel?
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Would that cause the loss in power though?
Yeah.
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You should do compression test first
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bad timing, bad spark plug (another thing to check) can both cause you to be down on power.
To not give a physics lesson, firing the spark plug at the exact right time, before top dead center, causes the explosion to happen at the ideal time, which will cause the most efficient power transfer from the combustion to the piston, down to the wheels.
Running rich doesn’t usually cause you to be down on power, not noticeably, at least, unless it’s spraying waaaay too much fuel.
So based on what @nx2l and I think, my recommendation is this:
- compression test
- check spark plugs while you’re there
- check timing if possible
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I’ll have to check the plugs and wires before work tomorrow, but other than that I may be reliant on a mechanic. I have some tools but not a ton.
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You can borrow a compression tool from Autozone/Oreilly/Napa for free usually.
Pretty easy, get a partner, unplug your fuel relay and ignition (50000v will make your arm numb), have them crank the engine while holding the throttle open all the way, read the peak of 5-10 compression strokes.
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Check the computer trouble codes. Anything from bad spark to a bad injector to jumped timing or something else could be at play, and the trouble codes will help point you in the right direction and eliminate going down some of the wrong paths. There is literally a computer with sensors that can help you with many forms of car trouble and I don’t see any reason not to ask it for direction first.
What kind of mileage and service history does it have.? Not every little tune-up, but have you replaced coils, timing chain, recently changed spark plugs, had work done involving removing the fuel rail and other info along with trouble codes can help narrow things down. Just because something was replaced doen’t completely rule it out as a potential problem, but it is still a helpful point for diagnosing car trouble.
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LOL forgot it’s OBD2 yeah, that’s probably the first thing to do. They have code readers at auto shops as well.
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I don’t need it
I don’t need it
I don’t need it
I don’t need it
I don’t need it
I don’t need it
https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=501019216
I don’t care that the transmission only lasts 60k miles
I don’t care that the engine takes 10w60 so oil changes are like $400 if you do them yourself.
I don’t care that you have to let it warm up before you drive it, even without mods.
I don’t care that the thing is a manual that you can’t shift.
I don’t care about any of that. It’s a V10, and I love it.
Moar cylinders, moar better.
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This. Check for spark, then fuel and then and only then assume/check for internal damage.
Could be one or more coils, could be a temp/airflow sensor misbehaving, etc.
Running rich can definitely cause lack of power.
Given the age of the car and from the sounds of it, the sudden nature of the issue i’d be putting $50 on it being some sort of sensor, injector or coil problem.
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