L1's Garage

Not really a fan of s14s. S15s won’t be legal here for 5 more years.

Nah dude, that’s going to wildly fluctuate. You can do boost on an LS for $2500 or on a miata for $3500 (even as low as $1000).

It’s definitely more expensive than boost.

CARB, torque vectoring, MPG and powertrain conversion are the real selling points here. I’m curious if this could be used on full electric conversions to eliminate powertrain losses. :thinking:

I would love to have this, but I think it’s probably too early in the dev cycle. If I had Fuck You money, I’d probably do it though.

Next order. Need to get a dial gauge as well.

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Not trying to up-sell that product, just that too many people look at a boost kit at “X” $$ and do not realize its really “Y” $$. I see too many peeps throw a CXracing kit onto something and say “boost, here I am!!” and blow a motor. Factor reality, EMS, fuel upgrades, tune etc, and IMO they land towards the price of this rear hub mod. Hell, the peeps that do not listen and boost first, break sh*t, upgrade and boost again spend far more than this hybrid mod. Again, not up-selling it, but IMO too man peeps put a low price to boost when it’s real price is higher- the peeps that do not actually buy EMS and the EMS software to actually tune and learn as they go.

Don’t get me wrong, my wallet is not lined up for this mod, I’d rather boost (hell have GTE’s in the garage saying my wallet says so haha). Pardon if scrappy- I have some drink in me tonight.

You’re talking to a guy who’s done plenty of turbo builds.

Yeah, too many people turbo their hyundai without building the pistons, but the fact of the matter is that a standard iron-block LS1 can take about 12psi of boost before you start running into problems. Miata, about 14psi.

If you have the right car, you don’t need EMS, fuel upgrades, or a tune. All you need is a boost controller valve (or keep the stock one, which is 8psi) and a rising rate FPR.

I’ve done a solid 180hp Miata build (NA, 1.8) on stock injectors, 8psi and stock EMS for $1200.

It’s only when you start cranking boost past the piston rods rating that you get into “free window for your engine block” zone.

Same. :stuck_out_tongue:

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boost, its whats for breakfast haha

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Did I ever mention that boost is the best way to get your GF/wife to allow you to rebuild your engine?

Just crank that puppy a bit past the breaking point and wait for the reasons to show up on the ground, in a puddle of oil and metal shavings, all the way down the street.

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If you have a semi competent tuner, most (un-opened) motors can be boosted to 1.5-2x the standard output relatively easily.

Fuel system and tuning is key though.

Even an alloy block LS can take a fair bit of boost/beating. forged rods, 6 bolt mains, they’re a tough motor.

Cleetus didn’t need to go iron block on his Leroy Vette kart until over 1200 hp. But yes it did have internals and was bored/stroked to 7L… but you don’t need that for a few pounds of boost and that gets big numbers (for a street car). Anything near 400-500 wheel horsepower is a quick street car point to point. And you can get there with only say 5 pounds of boost on a stock LS motor.

That’s kind of my point. You could easily pull an additional 150hp out of an LS with stock internals. You can’t do that on a Miata though.

It really depends on the piston rod ratings and compression ratio. I’d be hesitant to say “most” modern motors can be done, simply because lots of them are nearing their limits because the factory is chasing fuel economy. The higher the compression, the better the fuel economy, typically, so a modern economy car might have 12.5:1 or higher and that’s a fair bit too high to simply add boost. You’ll run into problems real quick without raising the head with a thick gasket.

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Hmm maybe i should have said “Semi modern” :smiley: i still consider early 00s a “modern” engine.

that’s fair, but those are mostly plagued with ugliness problems, so I’m not sure there are many good examples left. :stuck_out_tongue:

So import now and you have 5 years to build and test it

Or just buy a Skyline really.
RB engines have a way better sound then the SR20’s or CA18’s.
Although a SR20 is a decent engine. :stuck_out_tongue:

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JDM supras are legal now. Do it. You know you want to.

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I’m not made of money

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agree… the AWD and FWD SR20s are even better

If I got a skyline I can only afford a GTST with the rb20

Well that depends which version of the Skyline you want to go with.
A R32 GTST is indeed a RB20 a R33 GTST is a RB25.
But an RB20 is pretty cool to.

r33 just recent’y went legal here, it’s the first year. price can’t be touched for me atm.

you people and your dirty nissans

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