The one thing that turned my setup for good to great was getting an HTC Vice.
I do miss 4k resolution, but a G29 with an HTC vive and planar magnetic headphones is just great for racing sims.
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Yeah, I’m very tempted to get one just for that. I’m thinking black friday.
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On today’s episode of my 25 year old truck persists on acting it’s age. I ripped some of the duct tape off the bed to see what I’m really dealing with. Literally not surprised.
Had to zip tie one of my marker lights back in place. Also found one of my bed mounts is loose but it’s so rusted the nut and Bolt need replaced to fix it.
undecided if I want to try to find a new bed or repair this one. I have the equipment to paint it to match if I go the replacement route but not the experience.
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I’ve seen 4cyl Tacoma peeps post up ducting setups so that their intake air runs over and gets heated up by the exhaust headers. If I remember they got good mpg improvements.
it would be a good project to learn mig welding, if it’s something you’d like to do.
i’m a qualified welder in GTAW, GMAW, SMAW, and FCAW. it’s going to be extremely labor intensive I don’t really have anything to learn as far as welding goes. The get a new bed and paint it route is the ‘learning’; route but it’s high risk high reward. I’ll get better results if i get it done right but i’ve never painted a car so it could go sideways.
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Oh, didn’t know. Even better!
I’ve always wanted to learn to do automotive paint. If you go for it, you should make a thread for it.
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Definitely keep an eye on the trouble codes before and after getting the 87. If it was genuinely pinging then either the computer would tell you about it or the knock sensor is busted (assuming no wiring/PCM issues on a low mileage car). Running the regular gas through it to see if the problems come back is a good idea because if a sensor is just on the verge of failing (within spec but problematic) then using the higher octane to mask the issue is just going to drag it out longer. Speculation on a computer controlled engine without knowing what the computer says is like finding a needle in a haystack half of the time.
It would be much more likely that either it was bad gas, the car got some junk poured in it when you bought it, or there is some sort of fueling/spark issue causing a misfire and not detonation. The reduced fuel mileage might be related to why you were having issues before with regular gas.
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I envy you. I want to do this to mine but have no idea how or help.
It was actually pretty straight forward. Just took some time. Nothing special needed in terms of tools, and nothing needed to be changed tuning wise. Just a straight up swap and bolt on. The increased power is noticeable. Did cost a fair bit, though.
Just make sure they fit correctly as I described. Brand is pretty irrelevant - making them isn’t that difficult.
if they DON’T its not the end of the world, you can get (or even get some made up by any competent machine shop) locating rings that fill the gap between the hub locating ring and the inside of the spacer, and between the spacer’s locating ring and the wheel centre bore. This way the load will be correctly transferred to your spacers and hubs.
But if they don’t fit properly and you can’t get those rings… i’d strongly suggest not running them. The failure won’t be with the spacer, you’ll eventually shear wheel studs off. Wheel studs are not meant to carry the weight of your vehicle - they’re only there to torque the wheel down onto the locating rings described above - those rings are meant to bear the load.
If your spacer does not have a ring/lip on it that the wheel locates itself on - doesn’t matter what brand it is. Don’t run it. Like i said its not the spacer itself that will fail…
edit:
these rings are the sort of thing i am talking about:
https://www.hubcentric-rings.com/why_hub_centric_rings/
And it’s not just possible vibration as per the page. The possible outcomes are much worse…
edit2:
You mentioned hub-centric. Sounds like they may locate themselves properly. I’d still inspect them to make sure, but you may well be all good.
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Did you already tune? Are you on the 11mm pump? What nozzles did you get?
As dumb as it is I’m considering they evry mod.
I don’t know much about them either. I got some really nice ones for my Volvo, but it did make a noticeable difference (as I expected). Honestly I’ll probably just stick with cheap to mid-priced, name brand spark plugs for the future future.
@Theonewhoisdrunk
I would have to agree, I don’t think it’s a spark plug issue, unless you got a faulty spark plug. Possibly a coil pack if it was running fine before the new spark plugs, but that should throw a code.
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Faulty plug or coil pack would make rough idle, no matter the gas and the engine would shake like a mother.
Also, don’t pull coil packs while it’s running. they’ll shock you and your hand will go numb. (knows from experience)
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Haha. Talking from experience are we.
I’ve actually done this as well, but with normal spark plug wires.
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Yeah, I was trying to sort out my idle problems, decided to see if my problem was a weak spark, turned out I needed timed injection.
I think it was just too dry out, because I’ve done it on a distributor-type system before and was fine.
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I would love to get a Vive, and I plan on getting one, but a cockpit must come first. That setup’s not only uncomfortable, but extremely unrealistic feeling. Lol
In my pic imo u can see the ring is integral to the spacer- why I mention brand/model/part number is that in-of-itself being validated by the taco community vs a half price product that has all the right words in the product description but doesn’t deliver. What proper design and QC isn’t going to mitigate is the additional stress to the wheel bearings and tire rub at full tilt. It’s one of those mods that is going to force me to do yet more mods, be it rims with a different offset, or wheel well mods. I kne better than to get bigger brakes but still did it cause, well, reasons
I’ve had the the eco tune from Malone for a couple years. I have the 11mm pump because the car was auto before the manual swap. Don’t have nozzles yet, but when I do that I’ll be doing the tune. Possibly stage 4. Also have an electric lift pump I will be putting in the tank.
Never heard of the evry mod. Looks fun. I wonder if you could do something like that for a “roll coal” button.
What kind of car do you have?