Solenoid is electric to pneumatic or hydraulic. Relay is electric to electric.
They perform a very similar function though.
I’ll take a hard pass on these, but I’ll see if I can find some cheap online that are still priced realistically.
My advice: Don’t cheap out on brakes.
Also, unless you’re getting excessive fade, you don’t need drilled/slotted.
…then why would the starter be a solenoid? It goes to the electric starter motor? So Electric to electric? I no longer know what it going on lol. This does make sense in why I would hear some older car auto would be controlled by solenoids.
Starter has a solenoid in it to engage the gear with the flywheel, right? I think anyways, I don’t know too much about starter motors…
Not in this bike at least. I have pics of that gear from the starter connecting directly to the pulse generator which is directly to the outerclutchbasket/hub (Which I think that outer basket acts as the flywheel too?) anyways, things do things. I have learned something further. Gotta find this fuel pump relay which is def a relay and not a solenoid.
Which bike. Maybe my google-fu can help.
2005 Honda VFR800
Have you seen this thread?
I don’t know your exact symptoms, but it’s possible there isn’t a relay for the fuel pump. (or that it’s built into it)
I completely glossed over it, b/c my pump does prime. lol I shouldve checked though.
This does bring up that it could be one of the harness connectors though.
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That was my thought. Harness connectors could have poor contact and it might go out when you hit a bump or something.
well turns out i found the problem.
if you pull your left hand side fairing off, there are 2 wire harness connections. one is blue and one is grey.
the blue one was bad. i found it by leaving the key in the ON position and playing with every connection i could find.
when i got to the blue one (its an 18 pin connection!) i disconnected it and when i reinserted it the fuel pump primed.
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Im hoping it isnt something stupid like a bad harness since those were recalled, and I dont know anything about it let alone if my bike has had its replaced or not.
" VIA AN 18-PIN CONNECTOR. UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, THE GROUND WIRE TERMINALS INSIDE THE CONNECTOR CAN OVERHEAT, RESULTING IN MELTING OF THE CONNECTOR AND A LOSS OF POWER TO VARIOUS CIRCUITS."
Same connector. ;p;p;
Bikes have a VIN, right? You should be able to ask Honda if it’s been in for the recall if you give them the VIN.
EDIT: one of the guys on the forum called the pump relay a Fuel Cut Relay. Let me see if I can find some info on it.
Fuel cut should be separate. That is when you flip the other side of the switch.
Which sounds dumb when I reread it, but I still think it is accurate.
Ah, that’s the killswitch?
See, I know nothing about maintaining bikes, just trying to apply logic directly to forehead.
Yea. So the problem I have is putting that switch into the run position. The pump should prime. Sometimes it does. Othertimes itll do nothing. Or click on and then off quickly. Soemtimes, itll click on click off and then click on and stay on like normal.
So I am left fucking with it on and off for 20 flips till it works. IT started happened suddenly. Just fine, and not it takes 20 flips.
Sounds like a faulty connection. I’d start tracing the harness.
The forum post I quoted above should be a good place to start. Both under the tank/seat, and the fairing.
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I wasn’t specifically looking for slotted, it’s just what showed up on ebay.
Ah, yeah. You’ll definitely save some cash by going with OE (or equivalent) non-slotted rotors.