I have a neat as fuck Gateway Dimatron CRT monitor that runs at 1600X1200 @75. I am trying to get some things done that I actually need a CRT for as I don’t have a fast enough OLED monitor even possibly available to me to keep the framerate up.
Anyways, the monitor stays on for a minute, then turns off, then back on. It doesn’t have a smell, and it doesn’t have a pop or warped image. Could it just be dust? Where do I look?
Are you using some sort of convertor on the VGA plug? I’ve seen cheap HDMI - VGA adapters have that flickering. If so, try another one.
Could be a bad capacitor, maybe a thermistor, but my analog fault finding skills are decades old at this point. Schematics would help if you can get ahold of them.
Adrians Digital Basement.
Hes gone through a few crt model repairs.
You may find applicable ideas from him re tracing power faults and picture faults in CRTs.
I’d be VERY CAREFUL trying to repair a CRT monitor, especially if you have no experience in repairing electronics. Some parts may operate in the ~10kV range and could easily kill you.
Yes, my dad used to repair old TVs. I remember him getting knocked back on his ass and the smell of roasted meat. I was quite young and dont remember details, but do remember that smell…
He was ok.
He luckily lived but many people have died from messing with CRT TV’s and microwave ovens. If one gets unlucky enough and touches the wrong parts, it can literally stop your heart or send it it an arrhythmia.
Typical color crt flyback transformer generated up to 26,000 volts and could indeed belt the heck out of you.
Monochrome or b+w crt’s would reach 10,000 volts but not much more.
Still hurts when you get nailed.
Like stated above this sounds like a cap issue
Thermister failure however results in an open circuit so it would not power up at all.
The key to working with crt’s is to discharge the residual voltage .
Many homemade tools consisted of a thin blade screwdriver, a length of ground strap and a strong gator clip Connected to the shaft of the screwdriver
You would clip the gator to any metal part of the chassis, using one hand( with the other in your back pocket)
Holding the plastic handle only , slide the screwdriver underneath the anode cap on the side of the tube.
You should hear a loud snap as the voltage discharges.
For safety reasons do this 3 times.
But i say on the side of caution do not attempt by yourself get your dad to help you.
On an added note here, unless the crt device is equipped with a draining circuit, a typical crt can hold a lethal charge for months and even years
On One large color set i repaired , the crt held a nasty charge a long time.
And it had been in storage more than 5 years.
Ya it is probably a cap issue. You need to take off the housing and look for any burst or puffed up caps. If so start with replacing the caps on the power supply. If you’re lucky you can just replace those, if not it would be a number of things. So you would have to replace all the bulging caps. If you replace some, be sure to buy some stickers or have a way of differentiating newly installed caps from older ones.