https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HD9ybj
Replace the single stick of 8 with 2 x4GB Dual channel 3200Mhz so you dont starve/nerf the Ryzen chip.
Replaced the Cooler with a Noctua
Replaced the WD SSD with a Toshiba/OCZ NVMe SSD
@Vunter I just got an email advertisement from Micro Center offering for in store pickup the Ryzen 7 1700 for $230 USD. Maybe you should go back to your Micro Center store and ask for a store credit if you paid more for it. They also are running a nice sale purchase the 1700 and the Asrock Taichi for $400 USD with a mail in rebate $20 USD. So the final cost for both is $380.
It’s a shame I am short $600 USD and the fact they don’t carry the Taichi’s big brother, at least I never have seen it for sale at my local Micro Center.
I was a little hesitant on the Asrock at first, but only because I have been an MSI and ASUS guy. Never had an Asrock baord and the reviews on the Taichi I couldn’t ignore.
Thanks for the heads up I’m going to head there this weekend to get the 20buck credit. Just curious what more you would want or need from the Fatality Professional? I’m assuming your referring to that board when you mean big brother? For me the Taichi is a lot of board crammed full for a good price. I do know some people aren’t keen on the color.
The memory upgrade is a good idea.
Cooler: Ryzen does not need much. While I run the 1700x under the noctua you suggested, it is really not required.
Storage: Comes down to personal taste and budget.
i actually selected the OCZ since Toshiba lets you easily update the firmware under Linux and the speed is on par with Samsung NVMe drives
I certainly wouldn’t buy intel until Meltdown is fixed in hardware. If I were building today, I would absolutely go Ryzen. That may change when the next round of intel and AMD chips come out.
Well I guess you will be staying with AND until at least 2021, because that is the earliest the industry can provide chips that aren’t hackable for Meltdown and spectre. At least that fact was reported by Level1 Techs News in the latest podcast.
I didn’t say anything about Spectre. That will take awhile to get fixed, agreed.
I don’t know for sure you would be able to get a $20 USD store credit, The advertisement only said $230 USD for the Ryzen 7 1700 which is twenty dollars less than they usually sell it for, and is 50 dollars less than what Amazon or New Egg sell theirs when it’s on sale.
It might be Micro Center might have an agreement with their supplier for every Ryzen 7 1700 they sell their supplier for a certain time will reimburse them the difference Micro Center sell that processor to you. You might have just missed the start of the agreement. Think of it like the rebates Car Manufactures offer at certain times of the year. Or the situation might be you have to send proof of purchase to AMD, AMD than either sends you a gift card or writes you out a check for the difference.
I know for a fact the $20 dollars off the combo deal you have to send proof of purchase, your sales receipt, and the UPC code from the motherboard box to Asrock to get reimbursed for that deal.
As to your question why I am considering the ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming over the Taichi is basically it is the only Asrock motherboard in the X370 platform that offers at least two 1gb Ethernet ports on the board, Supports Creative Sound Blaster™ Cinema 3, and has some other features that are not the Taichi. Basically, if the Taichi had two 1gb Ethernet ports on the motherboard I would be getting that one instead of the Fatal1ty Professional.
I’ve read some forums and articles where people have not recommended Prime95 because it produces unrealistic temps. I want to stress test and torture test my CPU before I overclock it. I’m a windows user; which program do you guys recommend?
I think that was true of Prime 95 at first, I think they fixed that with an update to the UEFI.
But I am not sure. Maybe someone else would know for sure.
There were some reports a couple years ago of prime95 causing hardware damage as a “power virus”. I’m pretty skeptical of that and it’s almost certainly fine, but I used LinX to load my CPU anyway.
I downloaded Aida64 Extreme and using the trial version ATM.
Just ran a Aida64 cpu stress test with FPU off; many people recommended turning that off.
Ran Aida for 2 hours at stock settings on Corsair Link Balance Profile.
CPU temp = 33c
CPU Package Temp = 37c
I think I should be good to go on my overclock. I think I’m going to start at 3.6 and work my up from there.
Most R7 1700s will hit 4Ghz, so I would start at 4.1Ghz then work your way down. Quicker. Then overclock the memory.
I know people have already talked about here but if I start at the top lets say 4.1 should my voltage start at stock?
Yes, you want to use the lowest voltage possible to stably maintain your overclock. If it fails then you bump up voltage a bit until temps become problematic or you get scared, then if that fails then you know you can’t hit that clock until you get better cooling. 4.1Ghz is a reach so I wouldn’t spend much time there but I would give 4Ghz a lot more effort.
So I tried voltage combinations all the way to 1.36v for 3.9Ghz and 4.0Ghz and couldn’t get it to boot. The MB would shoot out an 0E error code; I believe that is memory related. However when I set it to 3.8Ghz at 1.35v and ran a Aida64 stress test for 3hrs it never went above 39c-40c at max load. I know I should probably run other tests as well and I plan too.
I do have a question though. On my 4790k I had it overclocked but it would only ramp up when it was under load. When it was not under load the clock rate would go back down for minimal load or idle. With the Ryzen 1700 its running a constant 3.75Ghz whether it’s 1% load or 100% load. Is that what we want? My brain thinks it would be better to have the CPU clock down for idle and low load and clock up under heavy load. Two questions is that possible to do and is it recommended?
You could try to set 4.0GHz at 1.365V or 1.38V and then use LLC level 4 or 5.
That might work, but of course its not a guarantee since every cpu is different kinda.
I can only speak for my Asus board but that absolutely does only ramp up the CPU when needed. I left voltages in auto and set multiplier to 38, so the laziest overclock ever basically. And that is working just fine.