Here are the parts I went with.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/
My local microcenter doesn’t carry a lot of samung b-die kits and no 16gb 3200. So I went with the Corsair Dominator. It’s samsung b-die only slightly slower than the 3200 and I can get a price match to 219. I think this RAM kit will do just fine.
I appreciate everyone’s input. I probably shouldn’t buy right now with RAM being so high, but I can’t wait so I’m pulling the trigger lol 
Understood. We all do what we must and we don’t live in an ideal world. Considering all the issues Intel is having right now in dealing with these vulnerabilities, I’d tend to lean towards AMD at the moment if given the choice.
Uhm, nope. xD
That’s what I thought the best thing to do was to purchase a Ryzen 1700 and implement a modification to an idea first proposed by Steve Gibson from Security Now in 2016 for increase security. In case you don’t know what I am talking about, I am talking about the idea he had of adding 3 dumb rooters to your network.
I am only comparing the two cause these are what the OP is thinking between. I personally also have a 1700 for the same reason and you can boost it a bit to reach to the 1700x point. The cooler it comes with is quite fine…
All the entries are void. 
One think to look out for is RAM compatibility with the mobo. Ryzen platforms are really bitchy when it comes to RAM compatibility.
Should run fine, if not come back and tell us. 
Will do. I’m installing everything now and will report back after I’m on stable overclock settings. I’m shooting for 3.8 on the stock cooler which should be fine.
Yeah, that should be no problem at all.
Please do report back your findings, I am very interested because the motherboard I want to get is basically the same board except with a few extra features, that I need for my use case.
So I just setup my overclock and ran into the Asrock x370 15.5x and 22x bug; which was locking my cores to 1.5ghz when trying to overclock to 3.8ghz using a 1.35 vcore.
Someone linked this guy’s video showing a workaround and sure enough, his workaround worked.
My cinebench score is 1675cb @ 3.8ghz - 1.35 voltage. I’m going to Run Prime95 for an hour for a stability check and I’ll report back on that as well.
As a side note you guys are pretty awesome; its rare to find a healthy discussion of people and helping people.
Sounds about right for that system. How is the RAM doing? XMP settings working?
Oh also, have you looked at the chip for the week of production?
I’ve tried several XMP profile settings and they all worked. Right now I have the XMP Frequency set for 2933 only because 3000 wasn’t an option. 3066 is an option, but not sure if 3000 and 3066 are the same.
Funny when you brought up the batch I had already had the CPU seated and cooler installed, but after reading the message I knew it drive me nuts not knowing.
Batch = 2017 - Week 44
I haven’t run Prime95 yet, but have been monitoring in HWmonitor while I have been studying for a few hours and idle temp has been sitting between 41c. I have the stock cooler set on HP and It’s running a littler hotter than I would like, but the stock cooler is near its limit so I’m taking that into account. I backed the voltage down from 1.35 @ 3.8 down to 1.3 @ 3.8 and it brought the temp down by a few degrees. At 1.35 it idles at about 46c. The case I have been using for a few years is an NZXT H440 and this case runs hotter than other cases due it’s intake and exhaust design so that’s another reason why it runs a bit hot as well.
After running Prime95 for an hour and testing it out with a few games I’ll see what the load temp is. If it approaches 60c and above Ill end up replacing the cooler with a better air or an AIO. The setup I gave my brother had a H110i and it worked great.
So I ran Prime95 for an hour each on these settings.
stock voltage @ 3.4ghz
1.2v @ 3.6ghz
1.35v @3.8ghz
100% load my temps were in the mid 70c’s between 70c - 75c. IntelBurnTest was another story all those settings crashed the pc due to exceeding 80c temps.
Just for testing purposes I set everything to default and ran Prime95 and IntelBurn and at 100% load temps were between 50c - 60c.
I’m going to have to dick around more to find that right settings or I’m going to have to get a different cooler. I resat the CPU just to make sure it wasn’t a thermal paste issue and got the same results. Baffled atm considering those overclock settings many were able to obtain on the stock cooler.
@Vunter have you considered the reason the temps are quite high when overclocked is because of poor airflow inside of your computer case. Logically if you can increase the efficiency of cooler air going into the case and increase the efficiency of expelling the hotter air inside the case, you should be able to lower your CPU temps when its overclocked.
Yeah, that is why I recommended to buy 3200, there is a setting for that.
That is fine, you just don’t want anything before week 25 because there were problems. So you are well in the safe zone.
Well prime95 does things sometimes… and I don’t know that Intel program. Personally I use mprime -t on linux and that seems to be the recommendation for a test of that nature. @Shadowbane has a point, your case isn’t optimal but you seem to know that and I guess you already did a testrun without the side panel?
I am guessing most of those results did not include a prime torture test. You might also see better results running automatic voltages. I am running auto voltage on my Asus board (because I’m lazy ) and it’s fine. But I do have a pretty big Noctua sitting on top of my CPU, sooo … I would try that out, just always keep an eye on volts.
Oh, one more thing: You did update the UEFI?
@Vunter how did you find out which batch your Ryzen 1700 came from? I probably will be buying mine from Micro Center because they have a store just down the street from me, and I want to make sure I get a good one with as few problems as possible.
While I agree with @noenken it is possible to decrease your CPU temperatures by applying a UEFI update to your motherboard, but it would be the last option I would pick, I would consider getting a better air cooler or switch over to water cooling. There are several points that support this position, but the main ones are as follows.
If I decided the risks of updating the UEFI were worth it, I would make sure whatever system I was updating was plugged into a very good UPS and I wouldn’t try to update a system during a thunderstorm, but I would try everything else before I would do it.
Nice to see your system came together at least. :3